G Scale Model Train Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Old Senior Member
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Didn't want to take over someone else's post being mine is just not working with a Trail Li.

Posted By noelw on 08/18/2008 11:06 AM
Posted By MIJODA52 on 08/18/2008 9:11 AM
This may sound like a silly question but has anybody tried making a straight section of track (brass) out of a curved section by cutting the plastic tie connector strips on the inner rail? I am about 4 sections of straight track short for my layout but I have lots of curved track.
I'm having the same problem to..
Trying to straighten out LGB curves. I cut ties every 3 inch's on both sides but can't get he last 2 inch's straighten out of 15 or so curve tracks.
Hope your post helps us...

Here is some photos of the problems I just can't get darn straight tracks out of LGB 1600 and 15000 curves tracks.




I have 4 box's of them and hate not to be able to use them in my Switching yard. I need about 30 feet of straight tracks for this. I made 10 ft. rad. curves out of some of the LGB 1600 and that came out nice.
Just wondering if any one else have any good ideas???/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blink.gif
Guess could soldered two tracks together and try that idea with LGB jointer. Was trying to stay away from having Hillmans or Split jaw on each connection of track so not to look to ugly../DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/sick.gif
 

·
Old Senior Member
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I went out and did some more track and still can't get that last 1 1/2 or 2 inch of track stright. Aristo and USA tracks I have with no problem with them even to that last inch. LGB must be a stronger brass. I tryed to finish the last bend with chanel locks but that just makes marks on the rails.

I put two LGB tracks together and still won't make the rail stright using the Train Li. It will got thru it at the joint. Kind of mess up the LGB rail jointer to./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/angry.gif

I was hoping to use the LGB rail jointer do to I have no problems with them using USA grease on LGB conections.

Maybe have to get a single rail bender and do one rail at a time??
Still looking for some ideals yet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,704 Posts
It looks like the ends are where you are having a problem? Is the only place you are having the issue? Rail benders work off of pressure so you may have to adjust the pressure higher when you hit the connection between sections, and then set it back after you pass it by.
 

·
Old Senior Member
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Posted By Trains on 08/21/2008 1:31 PM
Noel,
You might have to take off the LGB joiners.




Ya.. I can take a drill press and drill out the dimple on the back side of LGB jointer. That would save them so I can reuse them I guess.
/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,579 Posts
Just take a drift punch and knock the rails out of the joiner.
You can re-use them that way.

We've been doing this for years, if not decades, and no bender.

Take two curves, knock them all apart.
Hand straighten the rails (much easier than you think).
Sight down them to see if they are straight.

Lay the long rails on one side of the bench, the short rails on the other.
Now, cut the inside bonds between the ties (every one) on one section of ties.

Lay that piece with the long rails.

Take the other section, cut the outer bonds (every one) COMPLETELY out, lay that section with the short rails.

Re-assemble each section.

Most of my yard is done with boxes of 1100 curves.
You end up with one a bit longer than the other, and no cutting required.

Nice use for all that unusable 2' radius stuff.

TOC
 
G

·
What you need to do is put pieces of track together with rail clamps only split jaw or hillmans then run the train li over and it will be straight. it says that in the instructions. and you should remove all factory joiners for rail bending... heres a video to help you out..:)
Nick...
 
G

·
If you have a couple'a Hillmans laying around...connect 2 pieces of rail (trimmed and ready to bend) them swipe bender full length of rail, should work out (or at least it did on my AC Track....I have some LGB, but too lazy to go and try...sry
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,334 Posts
I agree with everyone above. I have changed 1 ft sections of track back to straight and also have altered the degree of curve with the train li. But I had to join sections together with Rail Clamps.
 
G

·
Posted By nick s. on 08/21/2008 4:01 PM
Cale we must have been writing at the same time... he he he:D" border=0>
Nick...



Great minds think alike---even at the same time!!!!!/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/w00t.gif
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,932 Posts
The idea of having a solid jointer on the ends is correct. It is also true when bending a curve. To get a continous smooth curve you must have it joined to the next piece of rail. The leading roller in the bender must have a point to roll on as the second roller does the bending. After the bend is made the jointer can be removed and replaced with a standard factory type if desired.
 
G

·
I have some curves I am thinking about straightening and then joining/soldering to form long straights that could then be re-bent for use wherever I need them...
 

·
Old Senior Member
Joined
·
1,456 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok ... Now got a good idea for yours feed backs..
I watched the video few time for the last few days off of the other postings and they tell how to make a bends LGB track but not how to straighten them out. I didn't see it in the Train Li book either. I think they forgot that on LGB track.
So now if I have this right. I'm going to take a drift punch and knock off the LGB Rail Jointer's.. Mine are old type rails with dimples to hold them on the rails.
Then put one curve in one way and rev. the other curve in the other direction after i cut every other tie on the bottom side. Joint them together with Hillmans for now.. Then I will run the Train Li Thur it to make them straight. I should have a approximately 2 foot section with ends even on each end. If it works, I will take the Hillmans off and install the LGB jointer back on that are off set. between ties and solder to make a 2 foot section of straight track.. Then I can keep going in two foot section until I have the link of track I need. Sound good to me.. Will try it tomorrow and see how many finger I can burn and maybe shorten up some of my bad vocabulary if it works..Thanks again for the help.. Noel
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top