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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When the Aristo GP40 was released there was a post on the Aristo site about the possibility of making a SD40 out of an SD45 and the new GP40. I did a little research and decided it would be a fairly simple kitbash. I chose a S.P SD40R as my model as they appeared in the 1990's. The one I chose to model was built in 1966,upgraded to a SD40R in the early 80's and then upgraded again in the 90's with S.P speed lettering,new MU connectors,new coupler release levers,ditch lights and the removal and/or plating over of the S.P. light package and classification lights. Although an SD40 looks kind of like an SD40-2 they are different animals. The SD40 is 65' 9 1/2" and was actually built on the SD45 frame. The SD40-2 was built on a new frame that was 68' 10". To get a basic SD40 out of the two models is really fairly simple. I just cut both the SD45 shell and the GP40 shell just behind the filter and blower housing on both shells. The remaining long hood portion of the GP40 shell was then fitted to the front portion of the long hood from the SD45. The dynamic brakes are a kitbash of the units from both models. The front left and right handrails were also extended and another stanchion added. Beyond that it is just a matter of how far you want to take the detailing. The graphics were done by Stan Cedarleaf.















 

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Looks like a neat bash just need to see more photo's. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Gregg, Please take down the tunnel motor. It will confuse people. I don't know why I can't get the photos to post. Just did some the other day with no problems. There are a couple nose pictures in the product reviews under "what is the red hose for"
 

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Wow! Great work. You wouldn't know that didn't start life as an SD40. Now you need to do a high nosed Southern version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kenneth,
Thanks for posting pics. I'll try again a different way. Anyway,the loco is equipped with my usual RC conversion using Airwire,plug in onboard battery,Phoenix P5 sound and a Train Control Systems FL4 decoder for the ditch lights and roof beacon. The red switch is main power,the yellow is a volume control and the jack is for the P5 computer connection. The volume can also be controlled from the Airwire transmitter. The ditch lights and roof beacon can be turned on/off at anytime while running or stopped. Ditch lights will flash for ten seconds when the horn is blown.

 

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Paul,

That is amazing--you are one prolific builder. Now I am thinking (dangerous), you should have the chassis, cab etc from the GP-40 and the hood from the SD-45--my math says that equals the beginnings of a GP-40X!!!

Here is a link: http://espee.railfan.net/spgp40x.html Just don't know how you'd do the HTB trucks.

How is this one wired? Batteries and airwire or the new G wire and QSI sound?

I only wish I had the time for more projects--that one is inspiring!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the leftover chassis and cab from the GP40. I think the long hood from a USA GP38-2 could be fitted to it quite easily to make a GP38-2 that would be better than the stock USA unit. The GP40 is a smooth running loco.
 

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Mr Perfect......... looks good.
 

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Paul,

Outstanding work!


It looks like that thread I did sometime ago on Aristo's Forum proposing the SD40 stirred the imagination.
My original thought was to use the complete Aristo GP 40 body shell on the SD45 chassis, but from my investigation the air intake would not have been prototypical, and as such you dealt with air intake issue superbly by using both GP40 and SD45 body shells.

-Ted
 

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I read this a couple of times and wish you had a before paint job photo. Also what do you use for paint?
 

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As usual an outstanding job! Of course I am a little prejudice being an Espee guy. The set-up on the electronics sounds super. Could you post more on how you did it or email me with the details?
Best, Ted
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Marty,
I like Floquil Poly-Scale for most of my painting using an airbrush. Virtually all my paints are arcrylics. On occassion I will use a spray can on rolling stock but never on a loco. The finishes on locos tend to get scrutinized more than freight cars and the spray cans tend to put the paint on a little heavy. For oversprays I still like Dullcote but do use Krylon matte acrylic on freight cars. In any case with the spray cans,especially the dullcote the can is heated in hot water before use. Seems to help in getting a better atomization on the spray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ted,
I have a real failing there in that I don't take any photos of progress on a project. If you want to do an SD40 what you you would need as a bare minimum would be an SD45,the short hood and long hood from a GP40 and the dynamic brake casting from the GP40 plus the non dynamic brake casting from a GP40. Also an extra set of the front left and right railings to get the extra stanchion . I just bought a GP40 and will use the chassis to make a GP38-2 if I can come up with a USA body or at least a long hood. That would be one of the easiest kit bashes ever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I blew it,kind of. While looking at some S.P. photos this morning I got to looking at S.P.'s SD40M's. Turns out they actually commisioned some rebuilds that used the SD45 with the long hood from GP40's. Exactly the same kitbash I did. Should have picked one of them for my road number. Mine is still correct but I could have had a model kitbash of a prototype kitbash.
Here is the link. Read the paragraph at the bottom.
http://espee.railfan.net/spsd40m-2.html
 
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