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Goodall valve

10065 Views 33 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Pete Thornton
I'm starting a model loco project, live steam of course, and want to set it up with a Goodall valve. I understand the principle of how it works but am wondering if anyone has dimensions or building info. I want to make it to fit a 1/4"-40 bush. My main concern is the taper of the nozzle and valve. Any insight on this would be apprecited.

Jack
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Here are the pictures:


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Winn,

I suppose the delivery tube, when pressure is applied, expands just a wee bit to provide a seal. Looks so simple that even I can do it! What type of plastic or silicone tubing do you prefer for the delivery tube???

Once I get my work done I'll have to do some designing and get some hex stock.

THANKS!!!

Jack
Jack, I'm not sure what the tube is, it is what came with the squirt bottle I bought from Sulpher Springs. Don't know if they are still operating but they do still have a web site.
Winn,

Thanks, no problem. I am guessing that any tubing will work.

Jack
I should have mentioned that the delivery tube is a clear plastic abuot 1/8 inch in dia. and quite stiff, not soft like the little piece on the end of the valve.
Winn,

Thanks! That clarifies what it is a lot. I think it is the clear plastic fuel tubing I see in the hobby shop rather than the cloudy silicone tubing.

Jack
for the delivery tube

Jack,

My squirt bottle has a brass nozzle, so both my filler valves (a Goodall and a Reppingen check valve) have a hole into which the nozzle tightly fits. It's possible the nozzle is tapered - I'll measure it if you want? Not sure where I got my squrirter. I recall that Home Depot had some that produced enough pressure without caving in.
As I mentioned above, no taper is needed. The plastic tubing collar on the squirt nozzle acts as a seal. Simple and effective.
Regards
Pete,

Thanks! I am thinking that some have the taper brass nozzle and some may just use the tubing. I got some plastic tubing for the squirt bottle and some silicone tubing for the valve. I would appreciate knowing the taper if you understand how to measure it. In the mean time I'm going to try the tubing only method.

Jack
H,

I'm going to first try the no taper method first as you posted. Just got the tubing and plan on making the first valve tonight.

Jack
Jack,
if you make the squirt nozzle e.g. 1/8" OD and the valve opening 5/32" and use a thin tubing it will contract to less than 5/32" if you let it extend over the squirt nozzle, sealing against the chamfer. This was how I used it at first. Then I ran out of the thin tubing and replaced it by the thicker one. Now the seal is made by kind of a longitudinal compression of the tube. This seems to work also. An O-ring may also be an alternative.
Regards
I just made the squirt bottle fitting and hooked up the tube. Now I will try for a dummy Goodall valve to test the simple plastic tube in the hole connection.

J
I made a simple hole in a bit of brass. A #2 drill was used for the tubing I have. I eased the sharp edge a bit with a counter sink. Stuck the tube in the hole and it worked as advertised. Plain tube in the preciesly fitted hole wins as being functional and easy! On to make an actual valve later. Thanks for all the chatter on goodall valves!

Jack
I would appreciate knowing the taper


Jack,
I got the bottle out of my steam carrying case, and noted it says Delta Industries on the bottom.

The brass nozzle has a short piece fitted into the clear plastic delivery tube. The exposed spraying end is 0.45" long, 0.19"in at its widest (where it plugs into the delivery tube) and 0.16" at the tip. Looks like it will fit snugly in a 3/16 hole or smaller? Certainly works for me.
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