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I'm looking for a good "how to" book on precision turning - how to accurately realign the tool with the work when changing tools, etc. Any suggestions?
Good Book on Precision Turning
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The army has a machinery handbook training manual you can download in .pdf. I have it if you want it's 8 meg. I have a quick change tool post for my Jet 9 x 20. The Machinery Handbook is good too but around 60.00 bucks I don't have one but a friend does.
Dwight,
I don't think you'll find much in a modern presentation. The reason is the problem does not exist when you have a good quality quick change toolpost coupled with a DRO that keeps track of your tool offsets. Each of my tool holders is labeled with a number which is used to identify it to the DRO. It takes only a second to swap tools, and tell the DRO which tool is in use. Then the DRO corrects the diameter/z coordinates for the offset of the current tool relative to tool #1.
Regards,
Ed
I don't think you'll find much in a modern presentation. The reason is the problem does not exist when you have a good quality quick change toolpost coupled with a DRO that keeps track of your tool offsets. Each of my tool holders is labeled with a number which is used to identify it to the DRO. It takes only a second to swap tools, and tell the DRO which tool is in use. Then the DRO corrects the diameter/z coordinates for the offset of the current tool relative to tool #1.
Regards,
Ed
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Dwight - You may want to invest in a quick change tool post for you lathe. They make life so much easier when changing from tool to tool and have a simple adjustment for up and down. As for realigning the tool back you can try the paper method....With you tool bit away from the stock stick a small piece of paper (plain white it notepad) between the work and the bit. When you bring the bit close to the stock you should be able to pull the paper out without tearing it. You then are just a thou or two from the stock and can start your turning from that point.
To get centered up and down quickly you can stick a small 6" ruler between the bit and the stock. Hold the ruler to the stock with the tool bit and look at the angle it is at. It quickly tells you if you are dead center ot up or down and can adjust accordingly.
To get centered up and down quickly you can stick a small 6" ruler between the bit and the stock. Hold the ruler to the stock with the tool bit and look at the angle it is at. It quickly tells you if you are dead center ot up or down and can adjust accordingly.
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Dwight:
Join the Sherline Yahoo eGroup. Search on books or post your question there - I remember finding some really great books/authors from the site members.
Alternative:
SmartFlix - http://smartflix.com/ Online tech video rentals.
Multiple vendors online for these sorts of how to videos.
Join the Sherline Yahoo eGroup. Search on books or post your question there - I remember finding some really great books/authors from the site members.
Alternative:
SmartFlix - http://smartflix.com/ Online tech video rentals.
Multiple vendors online for these sorts of how to videos.
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26 Posts
Hi Dwight,
To set the height pretty darn close, use a thin strip of brass between the tool point and the work, slowly bring the tool point to the work.
You should be able to tell by the way the strip moves, toward you is low and away is high.
Dave PFRR
To set the height pretty darn close, use a thin strip of brass between the tool point and the work, slowly bring the tool point to the work.
You should be able to tell by the way the strip moves, toward you is low and away is high.
Dave PFRR
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151 Posts
Posted By Dave Sykes on 05/29/2008 12:52 PM
Hi Dwight,
To set the height pretty darn close, use a thin strip of brass between the tool point and the work, slowly bring the tool point to the work.
You should be able to tell by the way the strip moves, toward you is low and away is high.
Dave PFRR
Hi Dave,
Back when I was in school our teachers recommended using cigarette paper for this purpose (I'm sure Dwight has a good supply on hand
) ...
Hi Dwight,
To set the height pretty darn close, use a thin strip of brass between the tool point and the work, slowly bring the tool point to the work.
You should be able to tell by the way the strip moves, toward you is low and away is high.
Dave PFRR
Hi Dave,
Back when I was in school our teachers recommended using cigarette paper for this purpose (I'm sure Dwight has a good supply on hand
) ...
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Thanks for the excellent tips guys!
One thing I was thinking of is when changing from a left-hand to right-hand tool. Even with a quick-change tool post, and assuming one uses calipers or somesuch to make sure the tool-to-toolpost length is the same, setting the carriage so the cutting point of the new right-hand tool is precisely where the poijnt of the old left-hand tool was... is it better to grind a combo right-left hand tool for these situations so tool changing is unnecessary? Is there some easy trick to line things up again if tools are changed?
So much to learn, so little time!
One thing I was thinking of is when changing from a left-hand to right-hand tool. Even with a quick-change tool post, and assuming one uses calipers or somesuch to make sure the tool-to-toolpost length is the same, setting the carriage so the cutting point of the new right-hand tool is precisely where the poijnt of the old left-hand tool was... is it better to grind a combo right-left hand tool for these situations so tool changing is unnecessary? Is there some easy trick to line things up again if tools are changed?
So much to learn, so little time!
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