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Going Link and Pin

4793 Views 21 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  pdk
As I'm building some flat cars, I'm starting to think that
Link and Pin is the way to go. They look real, I would think they are fogiving inregards to vertical alignment, altot of it can be scratch built. This would be one locomotive and a set of cars. I saw some clever ways here for mating knuckle to link and pin. Has anyone else gone strictly L and P?
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Posted By DKRickman on 07/08/2008 5:10 AM
A detail that seems to be forgotten quite often when dealing with L&P is the dead blocks on each end of every car. There were (usually) two blocks of wood, sometimes even cast iron, mounted on either side of the coupler so that buff forces would be transmitted through them to the frame, instead of through the couplers. Also knowns as man-mashers, because of the fact that they were designed to come into contact, but were exactly where a brakeman had to stand in order to couple cars. They're a large part of why L&P couplers were so dangerous.
They're also a critical part of what made them work, and frequently omitted from models using L&P couplers. I would submit that backing moves with properly equipped cars would be much more reliable.




Mr. Rickmann

I was very glad to see your above post, particularly after reading the negative issues the moderator raised in the previous one. I intend to use L&P couplers exclusively.

Can you tell me how far apart the blocks were usually located? At or near the corners of the car, ala buffers, or near to the pocket?

Thanks,
Les
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Matt:

Very nice picture.

Can you tell me how those dumps were activated, prototypically? Manpower? Must've taken one strong dude.

I want to scratchbuild some and can't figure out exactly who or what tripped them. I have a pic showing the end of one, so I have the mechanism, but I'm not sure where the chain-ends hooked up.

Thanks,

Les
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