Posted By DKRickman on 07/10/2008 7:12 PM
Posted By San Juan on 07/08/2008 3:34 PM
If there was a way to convert the Accucraft Whitcomb loco from link & pin I'd do it.
This little loco and one Bachmann mine car are all the link and pins I use:
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Wouldn't it be possible to take a knuckle coupler (of whatever brand & design you prefer) and cut tongues onto the shaft, so that it could be mounted into the slots on the loco, and pinned just like a link would be? If the coupler shaft were cut to be a relatively tight fit in the slits, it should be pretty stable. For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure I've seen real locos with this arrangement.
I actually use a Kadee in the link pocket of my lead mining car to attach to the engine and the pins to connect to the remainder of the trailing cars. When a Kadee (no draft box) is "rounded" out it will fit right in an Ozark Miniature coupler pocket and sit at the right height at the engine. (+-) There is still enough swing that it can negotiate 8' diameter curves.
Posted By San Juan on 07/08/2008 3:34 PM
If there was a way to convert the Accucraft Whitcomb loco from link & pin I'd do it.
This little loco and one Bachmann mine car are all the link and pins I use:
Wouldn't it be possible to take a knuckle coupler (of whatever brand & design you prefer) and cut tongues onto the shaft, so that it could be mounted into the slots on the loco, and pinned just like a link would be? If the coupler shaft were cut to be a relatively tight fit in the slits, it should be pretty stable. For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure I've seen real locos with this arrangement.
I actually use a Kadee in the link pocket of my lead mining car to attach to the engine and the pins to connect to the remainder of the trailing cars. When a Kadee (no draft box) is "rounded" out it will fit right in an Ozark Miniature coupler pocket and sit at the right height at the engine. (+-) There is still enough swing that it can negotiate 8' diameter curves.
