G Scale Model Train Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just unpacked the Number One parts box last night and am setting up to start assembly of my kit.

Beginning with the lapping process, I immediately noticed that one of the 1-8 valve plates in my kit was slightly warped (The center area would lap, but the edges where the holes are took much more time lapping to eventually even out, when flipped over the edges would lap but took some time until the center would lap). The other side's plate lapped evenly almost immediately. I used the 1000 grit wet and finished with 1500 grit wet on a piece of granite counter sample I had laying around.

I don't think this slight warp will affect performance since I've now got the faces evenly lapped. The use of paper gaskets with the packing compound (caulk) will make up for any slight discrepancy that might exist in the other components in the stack of cylinder parts in the assembly. It's surprising how much "slop" there is and still these things run like a clock (Mikado).

In the assembly of my Mikado and I recall lapping the actual face of the cylinder blocks (1-5, on the S2) with the larger cylinders of the S2 and stacked assembly, the components that actually work face to face are much more diminutive in comparison to the Mikado. (Estimated time spent 1.0 hour)


Scheduled for this evening, will be the assembly of cylinders.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
:)It is good to see another thread for another S2 assembly. I trust eventually there will be pictures.

I sure enjoyed Pat's thread and learned some things about assembly in general and some basic things about small scale live steam./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif

Thanks for starting the new thread. I will be following it as it develops./DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/wow.gif

Dave
K8DY
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,378 Posts
I am not quite sure how is grand fan of GN could have started and then stopped. Must be someone of great discipline and patience. I am sure that we will get very detailed postings of this build, maybe something to do with one's profession...
Between Pat's and this post the steam community will have a good concept on building this Aster kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, the S2 so far has been a lot of fun to build, it helps to have built up the earlier Mikado but by all means not necessary in order to have fun assembling this kit. Be sure that when you sit down to each assembly session that you are relaxed and patient as you rifle through the many bags of screws and hardware for the correct one to use for the particular assembly step. I tried to alphabetize them but they'd keep slipping into a different order. I bought a set of Wiha screw drivers and ditched the cheapies so not to bugger up any of the screw heads.

The cylinders went together in a very straight forward manner. Use the (NI) countersunk screws as called for in the drawings. The new packing compound(caulk) that comes with the S2 kit is much nicer to use than what came with the Mikado. A thin spread on both sides of the paper gaskets is all it takes. I took photographs but they're pretty much the same as Pat's, different work environment and bench, same locomotive.

I've built up the chassis as far as the installation of the drive wheels. I been working slowly and methodically just to eleviate any possibility of doing something that would require undoing and redoing. So far so good
It seems that I've already spent a couple of evenings on the just the chassis and sub-assemblies for the chassis and I'm still not quite ready to go to the next page. There's a lot of small bushings and screws for the equalizing suspension to make the locomotive compliant to differing rail conditions. The chassis once the rear extension is screwed on, that you'll begin to see how long this locomotive is. If I can remember, I still need to complete the axle pump and install the brake arms and pads. I'll hope to set the timing and air test the chassis this weekend and take some photographs of it next to my GN Mikado.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Continuing with the assembly of the chassis, the drive wheels and brake arms, came together without a hitch. One of my connecting rods was a tad tight out of the bag, but a few swipes of a jeweler's file had everything rounded off and swinging very nicely.
Skipping ahead, I wanted to build up the tender. It's amazing how the Aster engineers designed this part of the model. The tender body was very well protected in the shipping box, wrapped in a double layer of paper followed by bubble wrap. The tender employs some different methods compared to what I was used to seeing on the Mikado. Interesting to note that the alcohol fuel and water drain plugs are now friction fit plugs with O-rings instead of a traditional threaded fitting.
The tender trucks went together last night, the brake pads and arms are nicely detailed on the frames. The individual springs required some patience to seat in place while the bearing journals and wheels are dropped in. Seam sealing in the water tank will take place this evening as I continue to complete the tender.

Question for Pat or anyone that has assembled the tender headlight. How did your glass lens fit? Does it simply sit on top of the headlight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Because of business travel and other familial commitments, I've had a limited amount of time to work on my kit.

I air tested my chassis yesterday and for some odd reason the mechanism runs like a clock in reverse but in forward, it runs very slowly almost loping until I set the wheels down and it seems to move forward pretty well. I have a slotted 2x6 4' long that I use to building on top of and raise the front and rear of the chassis for the air test. For you guys that have completed your S2s, did you experience this and what would you suggest as a "fix".

Just about every other component step complete but am hesitant to install the boiler only to have to strip it down again later to make any adjustments. I've set and reset each valve and confirmed that each valve occurance is correct. It just seems that there isn't enough forward movement to the johnson bar. Thank you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,510 Posts
The problem is probably caused by two things.

One, the valve adjustment is maybe just slightly off in favor of reverse usage.

Two, when you set/adjust the valve timing the engine "should" be fully weighted to nominal running weight and sitting squarely on all the wheels.

You may have adjusted them properly, but now you are testing it by letting the drive wheels dangle at the extent of the suspension travel. That affects the valve timing by changing the nominal angles and lengths of all the piece parts.

To truly test the valve timing the engine MUST be sitting square on the drive wheels (and leading and trailing trucks!) such that all the angles and lengths (distances from axle to axle and axle to frame connection points of the various rods) are at the nominal and usual places. This can be done with a short section of track and run the engine forward and backward to keep it close to you while you observe things, or the best way is to use a "treadmill" to keep the engine in one place while it runs constantly in one direction or the other.

The treadmill is a pair of rollers under each wheel, one slightly fore and one aft of the point where the wheel would touch the rail, to support each wheel at the same plane as the others. This allows the wheels to rotate, maintaining the proper alignment of all the parts during normal use, and yet the engine not run off the end of the workbench.

You can purchase treadmill parts commercially or make them using small angle brackets and some patio door rollers or bearings... two rollers per bracket, two brackets per axle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
317 Posts
it runs very slowly almost loping until I set the wheels down and it seems to move forward pretty well



Harlan,
In case you missed it in my S2 building posts, you cannot run the S2 with the wheels in the air. They will rub on the brake shoes. You must run it on rollers or on a smooth surface like a plate of glass.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,144 Posts
...or you could go to an Aristocraft stockists and buy a couple of sets of rollers for around $60 or less - total eight.

If you are running on alchohol, don't forget that you'll need to keep the engine and tender at the same height.

They are called test rollers over here - I have a full-length rolling road for any model short of a Big Boy, but they are made up to 120cms for really big stuff.

tac
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Interesting I only had one slight rub from the mechanism at one of the lower brake screws on the right side when I air tested yesterday.
When I sat the mechanism down on the board with the johnson bar set to forward, it just wanted to"take off". I was just surprised to see the thing run so smoothly when set to reverse. I removed the valve covers to again verify that I had all four valve occurances, where that was confirmed. I'll get a sheet of glass out tonight and try it again, but my concerns may be answered once I have the entire locomotive put together. Thanks for all of your input
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
I just completed mine tonight and it looks beautiful (Black Beauty!) Concerning the air test, I ran it on a set of rollers and it ran like a sewing machine in both forward and reverse, and at varying speeds. I did spend quite a few hours going over the valve timing prior to closing up the valve chests to make sure everything was set according to the directions. Time well spent I think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Moving forward, the mechanism ran smoothly in both directions over a sheet of glass.

Wipe down the boiler cover and smoke box with a very light coat of machine oil (3in1) help keeps unwanted silicone caulk from marring the paint finish.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had a nice chat with Hans today after a perplexing evening last night trying to figure out how to fit some of the last detail parts. Part 13-1 Injector pipe, how does this attach at the angle of the prototype into the existing fastener holes! Hans provided the most excellent solution! Neuter it! I'm surprised that no one else encountered the same issue or cared enough to discuss it here. Now my locomotive is complete and will have its maiden steam-up this weekend. I've replaced the 'S' links on the decoupler rods with G-scale chain and small split rings. It's weathered(rust) chain which looks a lot better than the S's. I'll offer fellow S2 owners here some if you don't mind the weathered look, or you can just hit the chain with a can of gloss black spray paint for a new look. Send an email where I will respond with an address to send a SASE. Happy Steaming!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top