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Hi,


First the Accucraft electric versions of the Mason Bogie are very very good! However like all commercially produced locos they can be added to, and for Accucraft to do them would cost extra cash!


So, to my (electric) Mason Bogie, which is is a beautiful loco, with the help of the articles that David Fletcher did a long time ago now, and recently have been revived by Steve C – Thanks Steve, I have been ‘gilding what is a superb ‘Lily’ already


First I drilled out the 'star' boiler handrail stanchions for flags – as my post at http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx


Next it was time to give that empty tender a load of coal. I cut a piece of card to the shape of the front wall as provided by Accucraft, and glued that with PVA underneath a piece of polystyrene packing scarp that I use for tender coal loads; that is cut to a ‘T’ shape and is 90 x 94 mm with the vertical part of the @[email protected] fitting between the toolboxes. Make it a low hump in shape, and add a board for the back to stop the cola spreading out around the water filler. To each side of the pierce of card (at the front I added some scrap strip to locate the load more easily. The glue that I used is one of the ‘thick’ PVA ones, and that is also used for fixing the coal down as well. But before that paint the polystyrene shape with a matt black all over and allow to dry.


Then the coal can be added in sections allowing it to dry between adding it: the matt black paint will stop the white of the polystyrene showing through.
The back board is painted to match the ‘mineral red’ of the removable tender top, I used acrylics and made a match quite easily. Whilst painting this also paint the inside of the top flare of the tender at the same time.

Herre are a couple of photos of the result



The coal in location, with the tender flare painted to match the deck, and the lot then matt varnished which has really dried off as a soft satin, but perfect! I will make some 'fire irons' to drop on top of it now.



The deck by itself with the underside of the coal heap. The edges are all wonky when some solvent based blackboard paint melted the edges and other places as well od the polystyrene; you cannot see tjhem when its in postion.



I also varnished the running boards at the same time, these boards were I think sanded before painting to provide some grip. They now look much better .

The whistle a brass turning, is provided with a small crank screwed into the side of it. I removed the crank & bolt. Filled the hole and made from some 1mm square styrene card a flattened ‘S’ shape for the whistle tail, attach a thin piece of wire to the cab end and paint the tail to your color choice: the front end can be glued onto the gap in the whistle as per David’s drawings, and the thin wire tail will fit into the tine hole in the center of the cab front . I did not like the wire supplied for the bell rig to the cab – it is very stiff and difficult to bend. To replace it I used some double length (from bell rig to cab + a little for a droop) 5 amp (3 thou diameter) fuse wire twisted together using a pin chuck and forming a loop at the other end with a cocktail stick: paint to suit and put on one side.

Also from David's drawings is another 'tail': I think from the safety valves - the steam dome top is not deep enough for all of the tail - and I am not suprised - it does not need to be, so a small (about 20mm long) piece of 1mm diameter rod was painted and glued in position. For a change this one is red.

Finally the new bell rops can be seen in the 'close up'.










The bell rig - all the photo I could find seem to show the arms and the center part to be painted – so they were – in my case dark green. Finish with a coat of varnish for protection. Mine has a piece of brass on the top for some contrast! You can now add the newly made bell ropes (OK wires) now if you want – if the won’t go through the tiny holes in the cab front strip off one of the two twisted wires and they will then. The far ends of the crossbar for the valve gear have been left in virgin brass – I painted them to match the rest of the bar – make sure they bar still moves whilst the paint is setting care is need with the paint brush and all should be OK.




The painted bellrig supports, also note the highly peculiar postion of the cinder or smuts chutes, Accucraft had on the steam versionthe correct location, but somehow that was changed?

I have also touched in the extreme ends of the cross bar for the valve gear - make sure that all still moves berfore the paint sets!


The cab roof – I am sorry but it looked too light and stuck out like a sore thumb! The paint is I think cellulose and quite strong – on that I drew some 4 lines running end to end and then sub-divided them into panels using a pencil; the roof was then matt varnished for protection and to keep the lines there. The I added a very small amount of soot smuts from the front edge of the cabroof backwards, at the same time the exhaust from the Eames Brake injector pipe was painted black I have not yet removed the cab, though I will to add an Eames injector (having just done one for my 2 8 6) and the missing looped feed pipes as well.







The cabroof with some very thin washes of black for the 'smuts'



The water feed pipes from the cab front to the clack valves on the boiler side are I think copper – well they were here in the UK, and were at times left as bare metal: so they have been painted copper color.










My headlamp bracket was slightly loose – it seems to be held with some pins into the smokebox front – I fixed it with some very careful use of superglue between the bracket and smokebox front: if yours is the same – use a cocktail stick to apply the glue and be careful please!



The stack – it has been suggested, on the DSP Yahoo group that it looks ‘wrong’ –I don’t agree. What is wrong, and I don’t know why as the engineering version according to the photos was correct, is the angle and location of the ‘char’ removal pipes; I am leaving them, as they are as they will be soldered to the stack I think. However I added some tint 2mm long pieces of 1/16” evergreen rod on top of the circles in the center portion to replicate the bolts poking up through the cap; they were painted matt black as was the cone itself.

Having looked at all the photos I can find and looked again at David's drawings the extreme corners of the pilot deck seem to have some holders for flags (in addition to the diagonal ones on the step/handrail stanchions) so withiout drilling the deck I have added them. Made from 3 layers of .020 at 6mm, 1 layer at 4mm, and two layers at 3mm diameter , and carefully drilled out to 1mm diameter, then given a good lick of paint to add some curves betweem the layers and then glue them in location. They can also be seen in the above photo.





My valve gear is badly set – After consulting David Fletcher I will be following the instructions in Chapter six (page 40 of 64) of the Masterclass which say the rear axle eccentric should face backwards, at an angle of 20 degrees, when the crank is at 6 o’clock- or facing downwards. That will make the curved link waggle which mine does not. Be careful and try it out having done one side at a time, and slowly run the loco to see that all is well. There is in the Chapter 3 PDF’s a CAD drawing of the valve gear, with labels for all that has a slightly different angle, in the Chapter 6 text the 20 degree figure is used, I think (its a long while ago when I set it!) it is just below 20 but try that first. The valve gear in the interests of the steam version is slightly different to the Masterclass and the curved link does not seem to do anything on these electric versions of the locos: that may well be changed when I reset the valve gear!



The bolts with springs on my loco were both bent slightly upwards; one snapped off when I was trying to remove it, but it left most in position; the other came out and shows a 5 degree bend in the end of it. That one I replaced with a piece of brass rod and one of the washers on the end, and glued in position ; the other has a washer and very small bit of rod also glued in location. I have written to Cl;iff who thinks the bends were made when putting it into the steel 'carry/transport (from China) case'. he offered to replace them at once but with one stuck in its hole (before my gluing a 'top' on it it was not worth it.The results look OK, and will not cause and difficulty I believe.

Additional

I have just adjusted the crank on the rear driving wheels: first if you have a set get out your rolling road - it will make things much easier: now make a template for the 20 degree rear slope and using the small allen key ( now you know what it is for!) loosen off one side and move the eccentric backwards: it is stiff; holding and gently moving the link about its center the curved link will help on the firemans side; when satisfied tighten it back up, and gently runthe loco . The other side was stiffer still, and did not like to move at all: eventually with a pair of smooth pliers I moved it from the slightly forwards (with the crank at 6 o'clock) location to the 20 degree backwards position, agin thighten it back up again. Now the curved links wiggle back and forth! Thank you David.

As I say at the begining this is a superb loco, with very good looks and runs well, and naturally I know full well how long they take to build. These 'fancy bits' are really for the electric versions, I don't think they would stand up to the 'hurly burly' of the steam versions. but I think they enhance my loco.
 

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Thanks for the details.

Somewhere in the far future I might try some of them!
I'll have to save this post in printer friendly format.
 

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Peter, Really nice job of detailing. I have to agree that the Accucraft locos came ouy very nicely but a little personalizing makes them even better! I have also done some work on mine.
 

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You sir have done a wonderful job of adding things to you Mason, I am going to have to add the coal load to mine also once I install RC in it. I have to thank you for showing me where to put the receiver and its antenna, IN THE COAL LOAD! I had been pondering where it should go and now I know.

Thanks again for the idea.
 
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