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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
I spent a good amount of time cleaning the track. I used WD40 and some 400 grit sand paper on a block and paper towels. I figured I would put the time in now and get the track perfect. I’m so happy I did this. The train runs perfect, no feeder wires needed.
I just put one loop in for now. I will add sidings very slowly with a command system to cycle trains around the room with the push of a button.
61600
61601
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Next steps will be painting the ceiling and beams up there and changing all the plastic wheels to metal. I will spare you guys the details on that :geek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
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The room is completely finished now. Painted the ceiling beams black to match the crown molding train shelf. Then painted the ceiling. M super happy with the look. Next project will be putting in sidings and a control system so I can cycle a couple five or so trains with the push of a button. That will be a more enjoyable “behind the scenes” work that can be done at a much slower pace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Here’s a work in progress shot.
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The room was completely shut down until I could finish the painting. The high side is 19 feet. I could just barely reach. Over all, totally worth it. I’m glad I gave it a shot.
 

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Very elegant! Looks like it was always intended to be part of the room decor rather than a add-on. You might want to try this suggestion:
since constantly cleaning the track will take some effort. I've ordered some of the No-Ox to try on my own railway.
 

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Not a bad video, many of these "expert videos" are way off the mark.

I have researched and experimented over the years and from Z to G. The "micro scratches" really depends on the scale, really bad in Z, so so in HO, and who cares in G.

the black gunk thing was great, he is one of the few people who realize it is oxidized metal, and usually the rail head (seems the brass or NS goes before the wheels. GREAT! (years ago a friend and I had the black gunk analyzed with a spectrophotometer (just like on TV ha ha!). It is excellent that more people are finding this out.

I use a Swiffer (the wet wipes) on my G scale track, as the black gunk can be removed with household cleaners. I prefer it to the non-polar solvents, less chance of damage and does not evaporate so quickly. On brass, it depends on the level of oxidation present.

He does error in saying "anything you use on rails leaves a residue behind", clearly alcohol and several other fluids will evaporate completely, but they are no necessarily the best to preserve your track without more oxidation.

Overall his concentration on reducing micro-arching is the key, that is what makes the black gunk. He does a great job on debunking the CRC chemicals, the 226 product that was highly recommended some time ago.

I've use this No-Ox stuff on my rail clamps for a long time. A bit heavy for rail in my opinion, although wiped to a thin film, it's fine, just like other 'oils' that leave a film. In G scale, we tend to have steeper grades and I find traction suffers. One anti-oxidation "coating" is "Deoxit" which has a mild solvent already, and leave a non-greasy (less slippery) protectant.



It's got some lubricating qualities for connectors and completely plastic safe, try it on the plugs between a steam loco and the tender, you will be convinced.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Just added a couple LGB engines and a few more Dalton Refer cars to my collection. Now I have to get started on the switches and staging tracks behind the fish tank.
So much fun!
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