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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are welcome. I am going to change the procedure a little bit, I am waiting for white ink for my Alps printer and I am going to use a decal instead of paper on the lens. I think then the numbers will be brighter. Thanks for the positive input. Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wanted to add a note, when making a mold or a part, to avoid having to make a 3d mold, make your part or mold in 2d, and then when the epoxy part or mold is half setup, bend around the shape, when it sets up, you have your part or mold. In the case of the number board, it would have been very difficult to make the mold not having the z axis numbers. The mold was made in x and y and then shaped to z. This method may be old hat to some of you veteran builders, but I thought I would lay this method out for some newcomers, for what it is worth, happy building, Bob.
 

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Probably not what you are looking for, but thought I'd mention it anyway. When I needed the white background with black numbers for an HO SD40-2's number boards, I affixed black transfer numbers to white freezer tape (used for sealing meat wrapping freezer paper) then cut the freezer tape to the shape of the boards. Should be even easier in 1:29. The freezer tape is thin and fairly translucent.

Best,
David Meashey
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Some more E8 roof details

Here are some pics. of the fans and cooling lines on the roof of the E8. I used number 12 ground wire, copper for the lines and used copper tacks and soldered the lines to the tacks, I will soon use some bondo to shape something that looks like clamps to finish it off, I will post when I do that.
 

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