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After nearly a year-and-a-half delay, I finally got my live steam Accucraft K-28 running on rollers with no problems. I did notice several interesting things. The boiler takes about 850ml water, i.e. quite a lot, much of which is lost when one opens the blowdown valve after pressure has dropped enough to have the engine stop running with an open throttle. Obviously there is still a lot of pressure in the boiler. Perhaps it would be reasonable to wait for things to cool a bit before opening the blowdown valve. The port side cylinder drains a lot of oily water even with the drain cock in the "closed" position. Is there any way to tighten this up a bit, or does it make any real difference (other than loss of water). The tender pump hose is a real P.I.T.A. I may never use it, especially after reading all of the posts about the K-28 pump problems. I took the hose off and left the fittings. Does one really need to drain the steam oil out after a run? I opened the cock and let the water out until oil dripped. How fast is steam oil used up during running? Which runs out first; fuel, water or steam oil?

It is pretty exciting to finally get the thing going. Now I can't wait to get it on some track. And the coolest thing--my wife is pretty excited about this too!

Wilson
 

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When you open the blow down it drains the boiler due to the blowdown and gauge glass being on the same banjo. You can move the blowdoen to the pressure gauge side and drill a 2nd hole for it in the cab. I am using mine for a tender warmer.

Drain cocks are stainless on a brass stud, they will be loose forever until they wear out enough to be open all the time. Not much you can do that I figured out. Accucraft offers new rods for when they wear out but its the brass that wears not the steel. Watch the cock handles as they catch on switchs and snap off like both mine and many others. I did tap the bottom of the drain coick with a small hammer to tighten up the 3mm hole. Worked a bit too good, great seal but hard to open them, esp with no handles anymore until I make new ones from rod. Id still love to RC mine to open and close.

The hose is not the issue but the check valve is, If you get a replacement from say Locoparts (3/16-40 180 degree direce replacement), either a 180 or 90 degrees one and plumb some piping to a hose. You will need a M5 to a 3/16-40 adapter for the valve but the hand pump will were flawlessly. A good replacement hose is Mercedes Diesel fuel injector return line. Its a 3mm line encased in a woven fabric and will make a 1" diameter. If you need I can turn you one I have both dies and a lathe.

You sill have about 45mins of fuel, water 30 mins till the glass is at the bottom and flue is being uncovered, Oil = I think almost 2 tanks of gas.

Here is a few things I did to mine...

Plumbed all hoses under the deck plate, RC and checkvalve.



 

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Wilson,

The K28 is a great runner. I have the K-27, but Joel (aka Joel779) has a K-28 that runs regularly on my track. The stack talk is so loud on his K-28 that I can't even hear my K-27. His K-28 also produces more plume than my K-27. From what I've seen, Joel doesn't bother with the tender pump, but uses as Goodal valve to add water during runs. He has also added one of Bob Weltyk's dual chime whistles, RC, and wired the headlights. All told a spectacular engine. His only complaint is the difficulty of looking in the smoke box to insure both flues are lit.

Jason,

I like the idea of using the blow down as a tender warmer. Where did you get the globe valve? I also like your gas connection run under the cab. I never did like pulling the jets out to separate the tender from the engine. What size quick connect are you using for the gas line?

Cheers,
Mark
 

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Hello Jason,

I am very interested in your mods for the check valve and the burner lines. After seeing my water hose burst I have pretty much given up on the tender pump as the factory check valve does more checking and less valving! I would prefer to use the tender pump.

Also, as Mark stated, the burners seem to be the weak link in the engine, and I am sure getting them well mounted would eliminate some of the problems. Currently I have noticed them not seating well and I am sure this doesn't help with the fuel/air mixture. One question I would have, how difficult is it to get to the jets? If I find one flue doesn't want to light it is often traced to clogged jets, and I just back-wash them with butane to clean them out. It looks like this might be more difficult with the copper tube design you have.

Can you post more pictures? As Mark asked, what size disconnect do you use for the fuel line? I use the same water line disconnect you show, works great.

I love this engine!


Joel
 

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For the globe valve use one of the Regners, they are around 25 or so and for 3mm lines. The one I used was from Steamfittings.uk and none have seated to close the valve ever.

The Jets I have in there are Ruby jets plus the new holder is a tight fit to stay in, you can wrap a layer of tinfoil on the oel holder and they hold in better. Thats what I did orignally. The new holder is pipe for about 2" then its flex hose same as the water line. I used a spare Aster check but the Locoparts 3/16 check valve will work just as well and easier to obtain. I have to make an adapter for the Locoparts ones for another accucraft.

I stil get clogged jets, being its a line that is not sealed to the tank it is always open to dirt and dust. Seems every steamup I clear the jet once. Maybe I need to clean the gas tank.

All the disconnects are the 3mm Rectus ones. Gas and water both 3mm hose barb.

This weekend I can get some more photos.

I also hinged the smokebox to fully open. Just install bolts in the OEM hinges and remove the bolt retainers. You will also have to trim some details. Preist Flanger actuator rod and cut the compressor steam line. I slipped oved shrink tubing. The compressor intake filler I removed for now until I devise another way to install.

I also want to install preist flangers on the front truck.
 

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Posted By wilbeck on 01/22/2009 4:22 PM
After nearly a year-and-a-half delay, I finally got my live steam Accucraft K-28 running on rollers with no problems. I did notice several interesting things. The boiler takes about 850ml water, i.e. quite a lot, much of which is lost when one opens the blowdown valve after pressure has dropped enough to have the engine stop running with an open throttle. Obviously there is still a lot of pressure in the boiler. Perhaps it would be reasonable to wait for things to cool a bit before opening the blowdown valve. The port side cylinder drains a lot of oily water even with the drain cock in the "closed" position. Is there any way to tighten this up a bit, or does it make any real difference (other than loss of water). The tender pump hose is a real P.I.T.A. I may never use it, especially after reading all of the posts about the K-28 pump problems. I took the hose off and left the fittings. Does one really need to drain the steam oil out after a run? I opened the cock and let the water out until oil dripped. How fast is steam oil used up during running? Which runs out first; fuel, water or steam oil?

It is pretty exciting to finally get the thing going. Now I can't wait to get it on some track. And the coolest thing--my wife is pretty excited about this too!

Wilson





Think it's too much water in the boiler, nearly a full liter, and why water (not steam) out the blow down. I only get steam and some condensation. The blow down sharing the top water glass fitting doesn't seem to make a difference with good water level, about 1/4" above the flue top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all for the comments. I won't do any modifications just yet, though I do have this information about the tender pump: http://www.santacruzlumberco.com/MLS_PDFs/K-28HandPump_HowToImprove.pdf, which makes for interesting reading. The Accucraft instruction manual that came with the locomotive makes no mention of the tender water pump. I probably should have let the engine cool a bit more before opening the blow down valve. Releasing the pressure caused the water in the boiler to boil again and so blew off more water than necessary. I initially filled the boiler just to the top of the water glass as specified in the instruction manual.

Wilson
 

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The reason the boiler drains when using the blow down is that it is attached to same banjo as the sight glass. When you open the valve it sucks water through the glass and steam from the top banjo like a big injector. it is normal for this and not much you can do. If you open the valve just a hair it will bleed off steam but when its opened more it will start to suck through the glass and you can see the bubbles and steamthrough the glass when this is happening. I fil my boiler to just about 3/4 glass or a bit more. When heated it is a full glass and not a lot of water sucking into the throttle.
 
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