EXTENDED TRAIN SHED

16648 Views 61 Replies 22 Participants Last post by leonpete, Sep 22, 2008

leonpete

Discussion Starter · Aug 18, 2008

I have been working on an extension to my train shed so I don't have to carry out cars two at a time and place them on the tracks. It is about 15' 4" long and will be 4 tracks wide. This will give me about 20' or so of yard length. I hinged the roof so it can be lifted up for access to the trains. I need to get sheeting for the roof yet and some rolled roofing. I have siding to match the 8'x8' storage shed. I plan on using 1x4 pine stock [cut down to rail height and striped] for 3 of the tracks and Aristo 5' for the other. Does pine work ok for this or is a better wood needed?
I also built a bridge from layout to shed [plank] for access. Here are a few progress pictures.

]img]http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/leonpete/train%20shed%20063.jpg[/img]

more work ahead! I'm on vacation this week so should make progress.

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leonpete

Discussion Starter · #41 · Sep 7, 2008

Thank you very much for the complements Dave,Toad and Stan.
I'm still kicking around some ideas to help with lifting the roof. This has been a fun project to build and will help in running trains on the spur of the moment. I think I'm going to replace the LGB "R3" switch on the main line with a #6 that is the lead switch to the yard. When backing a 12 car train in from the main and the engine gets close to this switch a couple cars want to derail right behind the engine. To much swing with the LGB switch and pushing that many cars. Also want to move my transformer and TE receiver from the garage to the train shed for better signal reception.

Semper Vaporo

· #42 · Sep 7, 2008

Posted By Ole Toad Frog on 09/06/2008 11:53 PM
Posted By leonpete on 09/06/2008 9:30 PM
Oh yes, the roof now weights in at 164 lbs. I can still lift it but would be easier with 2 people.

You went this far and it is very nice staging area so why not automate the roof or counter weight it? Old homes had counter weights on windows and I see some places still sell the old ones. Just my 3cents /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif" border=0>
Toad

Gas filled "lifters" (like use on automotive 'Hatchbacks') might do well. I am not sure how they are spec'd, but I bet a couple at each joist would sure help.

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Dean Whipple

· #43 · Sep 7, 2008

Another idea for helping the lift the roof is the cylinders they use to help lift car hoods or trunks....you could probably could find a couple of them at a junk yard...

Dave F

· #44 · Sep 7, 2008

Two teenagers is all you need really.... But that could get expensive.. Ya gotta feed 'em.

denray

· #45 · Sep 7, 2008

If lid is to heavy use a couple gas springs or like what holds up hatch back car lids, they work very well for something heavy like this.

Dennis

Sesh1975

· #46 · Sep 8, 2008

If you wanna get trick with the lid operation, go down and pick up a couple of 12volt linear actuators. They will more than lift that roof structure and its easier on you. You can put in a waterproof switch right on the outside of your building too. Just my thoughts.

Shawn

leonpete

Discussion Starter · #47 · Sep 8, 2008

Sesh1975,
What are these linear actuators? Also where would you get these from. Do you have any more information on these, like price, and how they work? Thanks for your idea.

Any other IDEA'S out there on making the roof easier to lift.
Thanks to all of you who have made suggestions so far.
I'm in no hurry to get this part done so want more ideas.
THANKS TO ALL AGAIN.

leonpete

Discussion Starter · #48 · Sep 8, 2008

Sunday I got the access door from the layout made. There was a doggie door [previous door] in the shed above the new door so this was utilized so I can have a bigger access hole to reach the switches inside. Also spead things out on my shelving inside.

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Dave F

· #49 · Sep 8, 2008

Dang ! That's one clean shed.....
Mine looks like it's from downtown Beriut by comparison....

3lphill

· #50 · Sep 8, 2008

To lift the top, both air springs and lineal actuators can be found from McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com . At work we have used both to open trap doors in scenery with good results.

Phillip

Allegheny

· #51 · Sep 9, 2008

Linear actuators can get kind of pricey - especially with stroke lengths of greater than 6" or so. A great place to pick up surplus ones, and a bunch of other stuff as well, is Burden's Surplus Center:

Main Website:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/

Linear actuators:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.a...atname=&byKeyword=yes&search=linear actuators

Brian

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leonpete

Discussion Starter · #52 · Sep 9, 2008

Phillip and Brian,
Visited the web site and yes there are pretty pricey. Will need a cheaper way to help with the roof weight. Thanks for your response tho.
Leon

SteveC

· #53 · Sep 10, 2008

I would think a standard garage door counter-balance spring could be adapted to offset the weight of the roof.

GlacierBill

· #54 · Sep 10, 2008

I have been watching this expansion with great interest, and fascination. It has given me many new ideas, keep up the good work.

Oh yes, I still need to get up there to see your layout, and not this shed.

Sesh1975

· #55 · Sep 10, 2008

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. Here is a link to just a few actuators. http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=hatchliftsram also see, http://dcactuators.com/Detail.asp?Product_ID=301.530_6124

You can just Google it as well and find a hundred different types. I believe that you could get away with just one actuator since they will lift close to 700lbs. Figure on the price being in the 250 dollar range for the actuator.

leonpete

Discussion Starter · #56 · Sep 10, 2008

Hi Bill,
Glad you enjoyed this post on my shed. Yes, there has been a lot of pictures of it. I like to see pictures on topics posted here at my largescale and I also like to post pictures of projects I do. Heck, with a digital camera it's so easy.
Thanks
Leon

Hope you have made progress on your layout and happy railroading.

McGinty26

· #57 · Sep 18, 2008

great building, i'm stealing the idea for mine.

Pat McCarty

jimtyp

· #58 · Sep 18, 2008

That is a mighty fine train shed!

leonpete

Discussion Starter · #59 · Sep 18, 2008

Thanks Pat and Jim.
Pat, If you have any questions on the building, just email me. Here's a few tips. The roof frame is made to stick out 1 1/2 " past the top plate of the side wall on both sides. This way you can attach your hinges to the roof and the side of the top plate of the wall while the roof frame is laying on top of the walls. The ends stick out about 1 1/4" farther. I did use a biscut joiner to assemble the roof frame [dowels can also be used]. Glued the biscut's and ends with titebond III and clamped the frame for a couple hours and then released the pressure on the clamps. Also glued and screwed the 2x6 rafters to the roof frame. On the hinge side, I beveled the facia board on the bottom inside edge to help out on clearance when the roof is raised up so it doesn't bind the hinges. I suggest about 8 hinges for this weight of the roof. Two screws through the fascia on the side that opens secure's the roof closed as my lock. Hope you enjoy yours.

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SandyR

· #60 · Sep 19, 2008

Leon, you sir, are a real craftsman in the line of Norm Abram (New Yankee Workshop). The train shed, its fittings and doors...it's amazing and so well done. I'm in awe!!
SandyR

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