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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thank you very much for the complements Dave,Toad and Stan.
I'm still kicking around some ideas to help with lifting the roof. This has been a fun project to build and will help in running trains on the spur of the moment. I think I'm going to replace the LGB "R3" switch on the main line with a #6 that is the lead switch to the yard. When backing a 12 car train in from the main and the engine gets close to this switch a couple cars want to derail right behind the engine. To much swing with the LGB switch and pushing that many cars. Also want to move my transformer and TE receiver from the garage to the train shed for better signal reception.
 

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Posted By Ole Toad Frog on 09/06/2008 11:53 PM
Posted By leonpete on 09/06/2008 9:30 PM
Oh yes, the roof now weights in at 164 lbs. I can still lift it but would be easier with 2 people.

You went this far and it is very nice staging area so why not automate the roof or counter weight it? Old homes had counter weights on windows and I see some places still sell the old ones. Just my 3cents /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/satisfied.gif" border=0>
Toad




Gas filled "lifters" (like use on automotive 'Hatchbacks') might do well. I am not sure how they are spec'd, but I bet a couple at each joist would sure help.
 

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If you wanna get trick with the lid operation, go down and pick up a couple of 12volt linear actuators. They will more than lift that roof structure and its easier on you. You can put in a waterproof switch right on the outside of your building too. Just my thoughts.

Shawn :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Sesh1975,
What are these linear actuators? Also where would you get these from. Do you have any more information on these, like price, and how they work? Thanks for your idea.

Any other IDEA'S out there on making the roof easier to lift.
Thanks to all of you who have made suggestions so far.
I'm in no hurry to get this part done so want more ideas.
THANKS TO ALL AGAIN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Sunday I got the access door from the layout made. There was a doggie door [previous door] in the shed above the new door so this was utilized so I can have a bigger access hole to reach the switches inside. Also spead things out on my shelving inside.




 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Phillip and Brian,
Visited the web site and yes there are pretty pricey. Will need a cheaper way to help with the roof weight. Thanks for your response tho.
Leon
 

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I have been watching this expansion with great interest, and fascination. It has given me many new ideas, keep up the good work.

Oh yes, I still need to get up there to see your layout, and not this shed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hi Bill,
Glad you enjoyed this post on my shed. Yes, there has been a lot of pictures of it. I like to see pictures on topics posted here at my largescale and I also like to post pictures of projects I do. Heck, with a digital camera it's so easy.
Thanks
Leon

Hope you have made progress on your layout and happy railroading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Thanks Pat and Jim.
Pat, If you have any questions on the building, just email me. Here's a few tips. The roof frame is made to stick out 1 1/2 " past the top plate of the side wall on both sides. This way you can attach your hinges to the roof and the side of the top plate of the wall while the roof frame is laying on top of the walls. The ends stick out about 1 1/4" farther. I did use a biscut joiner to assemble the roof frame [dowels can also be used]. Glued the biscut's and ends with titebond III and clamped the frame for a couple hours and then released the pressure on the clamps. Also glued and screwed the 2x6 rafters to the roof frame. On the hinge side, I beveled the facia board on the bottom inside edge to help out on clearance when the roof is raised up so it doesn't bind the hinges. I suggest about 8 hinges for this weight of the roof. Two screws through the fascia on the side that opens secure's the roof closed as my lock. Hope you enjoy yours.
 
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