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EXTENDED TRAIN SHED

16674 Views 61 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  leonpete, 
L
I have been working on an extension to my train shed so I don't have to carry out cars two at a time and place them on the tracks. It is about 15' 4" long and will be 4 tracks wide. This will give me about 20' or so of yard length. I hinged the roof so it can be lifted up for access to the trains. I need to get sheeting for the roof yet and some rolled roofing. I have siding to match the 8'x8' storage shed. I plan on using 1x4 pine stock [cut down to rail height and striped] for 3 of the tracks and Aristo 5' for the other. Does pine work ok for this or is a better wood needed?
I also built a bridge from layout to shed [plank] for access. Here are a few progress pictures.




]img]http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/leonpete/train%20shed%20063.jpg[/img]

more work ahead! I'm on vacation this week so should make progress.
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L
Sunday I got the access door from the layout made. There was a doggie door [previous door] in the shed above the new door so this was utilized so I can have a bigger access hole to reach the switches inside. Also spead things out on my shelving inside.




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Phillip and Brian,
Visited the web site and yes there are pretty pricey. Will need a cheaper way to help with the roof weight. Thanks for your response tho.
Leon
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L
Hi Bill,
Glad you enjoyed this post on my shed. Yes, there has been a lot of pictures of it. I like to see pictures on topics posted here at my largescale and I also like to post pictures of projects I do. Heck, with a digital camera it's so easy.
Thanks
Leon

Hope you have made progress on your layout and happy railroading.
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L
Thanks Pat and Jim.
Pat, If you have any questions on the building, just email me. Here's a few tips. The roof frame is made to stick out 1 1/2 " past the top plate of the side wall on both sides. This way you can attach your hinges to the roof and the side of the top plate of the wall while the roof frame is laying on top of the walls. The ends stick out about 1 1/4" farther. I did use a biscut joiner to assemble the roof frame [dowels can also be used]. Glued the biscut's and ends with titebond III and clamped the frame for a couple hours and then released the pressure on the clamps. Also glued and screwed the 2x6 rafters to the roof frame. On the hinge side, I beveled the facia board on the bottom inside edge to help out on clearance when the roof is raised up so it doesn't bind the hinges. I suggest about 8 hinges for this weight of the roof. Two screws through the fascia on the side that opens secure's the roof closed as my lock. Hope you enjoy yours.
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L
Thanks for the complement SandyR. I always use to watch the New Yankee Workshop. I really enjoyed it and it got me into making some furniture pieces and kitchen cupboards out of red oak. Never got in to using the exotic woods like Norm.
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