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Okay, I must confess. Size does matter. As I've acquired more and more rolling stock based on the Bachmann 1:20 cars, I decided that my old caboose #2 (the "Panic") aesthetically looked a touch small. It was the EBT's 2nd caboose, having been built on one of their original Billmeyer & Smalls flat cars. At a mere 26' long and 6' wide, it fits in well with my older c. 1880s equipment, but the Bachmann equipment I've been purchasing and bashing of late is of a later, c. 1910 vintage. These cars represent what I call the "2nd generation" of narrow gauge rolling stock--cars that were definitely higher capacity and had some healthy proportions to them. Now, I have a 4-wheel bobber, but I wanted something with some length to it. Fortunately, my needs were echoed in the history of the EBT.
In 1905, the EBT decided that its early fleet of cabooses were wearing out, and started to replace them. They started with caboose #26. It was a home-built caboose, and like #2, was built on one of the EBT's existing flat cars. Here's a photo of the caboose taken in 1908 or 1909.
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From newspaper accounts, this was evidently a very rough riding car. When the EBT went to build two more cabooses a mere 2 years later, then went back to the 4-wheel "bobber" design. Bobber cabooses weren't known for their smooth riding characteristics, but the newspaper reports say the new design was far "more comfortable" than caboose #26. "Comfort" was not referring to interior space, as the bobbers were about half the size. When the car was built, it rode on 20" wheels in what I expect were fairly old freight car trucks. (It's possible that they used the trucks from #2). As such, it's believed that it wasn't used all that often, and would eventually be pressed into work service. It lasted in that capacity up until its retirement in 1947.
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Note some significant changes. First, the link-and-pin couplers are gone, replaced by knuckle couplers. This happened in the mid 1910s. Also, the roof has been rebuilt to a simple arched roof, with new steps. Also the railings are taller. The car also rides on passenger car trucks. What is not known is when, exactly these changes occurred. We only have the one photo of the car c. 1908, and the rest are c. 1940. So, when building a model of the car c. 1913, there's room for a bit of conjecture as to what would have been on the car at that point.
The model:
What really prompted all this madness was the 1:20.me photo contest from last year. I took 3rd place, and the prize was an AMS flat car. Bear in mind that I had eschewed the AMS equipment because it was far too "Colorado" for my eastern railroad. It would have required a fair amount of work to get rid of all the elements that made it distinctly D&RGW--work that for a flat car--was more bothersome than scratchbuilding the car itself. (Which--up until the more generic Bachmann flat car came out--was my usual practice.) However, I now had this flat car, with no clue what I was going to do with it. The last thing I needed was a nother flat car. Then, I saw a thread here (or on LSC) about someone using the AMS flat car as the base for a box car or some such project, and the wheels started turning. I checked the dimensions of #26, and they're virtually spot on for using the AMS car as a base.
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The first step was to remove all the airbrake equipment from the bottom of the car. I'm modeling the EBT just prior to the addition of air brakes.
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Then, a quick swipe down the side of the car with my band saw make quick work of the stake pockets and the ends of the boards everywhere except the last three boards on either end of the car, which make up the platform.
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I cut the walls from a piece of Masonite. I'm not planning on putting an interior in this car, so I could use some heavy corner and floor braces. The Masonite was held together with super glue, then pinned with PECO track nails for a mechanical joint. The 1/2" x 1/8" flange along the bottom edge will be screwed onto the floor of the flat car. The deep cut across the deck of the flat car is intended to relieve the stresses that have caused some AMS cars to bow upwards. Mine also has a "U" channel running along the middle of the car, which may have been Accucraft's mechanical fix to the problem, I don' t know. The sides of the caboose should also hold everything flat, too.
![]()
Because the prototype for this car was built on an existing flat car, I left the holes in the AMS car where the original steps attached. A close inspection of the c. 1940s photos of the car show similar holes. The steps came from an AMS passenger car whose platforms I had rebuilt. They were cut and trimmed so not to interfere with the swing of the trucks, then glued in place.
![]()
The side windows on this car are rather distinctive. Fortunately, Ozark Miniature's cupola windows were almost spot on in size. I sanded off the edges of two windows and butted them side-by-side.
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The same windows are used on the ends of the car. I'm not sure why the bars were placed over the ends, except to keep brakemen from breaking the windows when standing on the platform. The bars are evident in the 1908 photo. Similar bars appear over the windos of some of the combines used as payroll cars, but it's unlikely this car would have been used for that purpose.
When ordering the windows from Ozark, I noticed they had door castings as well. Usually I build my own doors, but since they matched the style (and were cheap enough) I figured the time vs. money thing would balance out.
![]()
Alas, the cupola windows were not quite so convenient. Their small size, combined with the slanted end windows forced me to frame them out myself. NOT one of my favorite tasks. In fact, there are plenty of menial, even gross, tasks I'd rather do. The plastic is a "Z" shape, cut to fit. Actually, it started out as an "H" channel, but I cut off opossite flanges to make the "Z" shape. Plumber's putty fills in the corners which invariably didn't meet precicely.
The roof is aluminum duct tape cut to small rectangular sheets.
![]()
Here we are, ready for the paint shop, where the car currently sits. I have no idea when I'll actually have time to sit down and finish painting, so it may still be a month or two before it's ready for the rails. Finding "paint time" is a bit difficult with two kids. The good news is that this span of time will give me a chance to finish the artwork for the hopper cars and such, so that I can have dry transfers made. I could run decals just as easily, except my ALPS printer is still buried under stuff from when we had the basement finished.
More photos as events warrant.
Later,
K
In 1905, the EBT decided that its early fleet of cabooses were wearing out, and started to replace them. They started with caboose #26. It was a home-built caboose, and like #2, was built on one of the EBT's existing flat cars. Here's a photo of the caboose taken in 1908 or 1909.
From newspaper accounts, this was evidently a very rough riding car. When the EBT went to build two more cabooses a mere 2 years later, then went back to the 4-wheel "bobber" design. Bobber cabooses weren't known for their smooth riding characteristics, but the newspaper reports say the new design was far "more comfortable" than caboose #26. "Comfort" was not referring to interior space, as the bobbers were about half the size. When the car was built, it rode on 20" wheels in what I expect were fairly old freight car trucks. (It's possible that they used the trucks from #2). As such, it's believed that it wasn't used all that often, and would eventually be pressed into work service. It lasted in that capacity up until its retirement in 1947.
Note some significant changes. First, the link-and-pin couplers are gone, replaced by knuckle couplers. This happened in the mid 1910s. Also, the roof has been rebuilt to a simple arched roof, with new steps. Also the railings are taller. The car also rides on passenger car trucks. What is not known is when, exactly these changes occurred. We only have the one photo of the car c. 1908, and the rest are c. 1940. So, when building a model of the car c. 1913, there's room for a bit of conjecture as to what would have been on the car at that point.
The model:
What really prompted all this madness was the 1:20.me photo contest from last year. I took 3rd place, and the prize was an AMS flat car. Bear in mind that I had eschewed the AMS equipment because it was far too "Colorado" for my eastern railroad. It would have required a fair amount of work to get rid of all the elements that made it distinctly D&RGW--work that for a flat car--was more bothersome than scratchbuilding the car itself. (Which--up until the more generic Bachmann flat car came out--was my usual practice.) However, I now had this flat car, with no clue what I was going to do with it. The last thing I needed was a nother flat car. Then, I saw a thread here (or on LSC) about someone using the AMS flat car as the base for a box car or some such project, and the wheels started turning. I checked the dimensions of #26, and they're virtually spot on for using the AMS car as a base.
The first step was to remove all the airbrake equipment from the bottom of the car. I'm modeling the EBT just prior to the addition of air brakes.
Then, a quick swipe down the side of the car with my band saw make quick work of the stake pockets and the ends of the boards everywhere except the last three boards on either end of the car, which make up the platform.
I cut the walls from a piece of Masonite. I'm not planning on putting an interior in this car, so I could use some heavy corner and floor braces. The Masonite was held together with super glue, then pinned with PECO track nails for a mechanical joint. The 1/2" x 1/8" flange along the bottom edge will be screwed onto the floor of the flat car. The deep cut across the deck of the flat car is intended to relieve the stresses that have caused some AMS cars to bow upwards. Mine also has a "U" channel running along the middle of the car, which may have been Accucraft's mechanical fix to the problem, I don' t know. The sides of the caboose should also hold everything flat, too.
Because the prototype for this car was built on an existing flat car, I left the holes in the AMS car where the original steps attached. A close inspection of the c. 1940s photos of the car show similar holes. The steps came from an AMS passenger car whose platforms I had rebuilt. They were cut and trimmed so not to interfere with the swing of the trucks, then glued in place.
The side windows on this car are rather distinctive. Fortunately, Ozark Miniature's cupola windows were almost spot on in size. I sanded off the edges of two windows and butted them side-by-side.
The same windows are used on the ends of the car. I'm not sure why the bars were placed over the ends, except to keep brakemen from breaking the windows when standing on the platform. The bars are evident in the 1908 photo. Similar bars appear over the windos of some of the combines used as payroll cars, but it's unlikely this car would have been used for that purpose.
When ordering the windows from Ozark, I noticed they had door castings as well. Usually I build my own doors, but since they matched the style (and were cheap enough) I figured the time vs. money thing would balance out.
Alas, the cupola windows were not quite so convenient. Their small size, combined with the slanted end windows forced me to frame them out myself. NOT one of my favorite tasks. In fact, there are plenty of menial, even gross, tasks I'd rather do. The plastic is a "Z" shape, cut to fit. Actually, it started out as an "H" channel, but I cut off opossite flanges to make the "Z" shape. Plumber's putty fills in the corners which invariably didn't meet precicely.
The roof is aluminum duct tape cut to small rectangular sheets.
Here we are, ready for the paint shop, where the car currently sits. I have no idea when I'll actually have time to sit down and finish painting, so it may still be a month or two before it's ready for the rails. Finding "paint time" is a bit difficult with two kids. The good news is that this span of time will give me a chance to finish the artwork for the hopper cars and such, so that I can have dry transfers made. I could run decals just as easily, except my ALPS printer is still buried under stuff from when we had the basement finished.
More photos as events warrant.
Later,
K
