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Discussion Starter #1
This is a quick note and picture from the comment and idea I posted in Randy's thread on the undecorated caboose a few days ago.
My idea and comment was that hardly any of the SG cabeese made have the correct trucks on them, the manufacturers feel regular freight car trucks look fine, I tend to differ. Well I have now found the correct Bettendorf/Barber style trucks , or close to them. The only problem is I have to buy a WHOLE new caboose in order to get the trucks. To recoup part of the cost, I am re-selling the new caboose without the trucks for $50 less than the cost. Here is a shot of a USAT wide vision caboose after the truck refit.



I also found a way to make a bracket that mounts under the platforms on the 2 beams without doing any cutting of the caboose frame.
A pair of Kadee 907s fits the bill and looks oh sooo much better than having truck mounted couplers and the new trucks. I didn't get a picture, but will add one later.

Rocky
 

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Nice job Rocky.

I, also, body mounted Kadee 907 centerset couplers on the USAT caboose without cutting the body.
In the process, I lowered the caboose.

An example Santa Fe Extended Vision Caboose with extended draft gear box that emulate a prototype is shown below.







For different methods and detail, see full article:
"Body Mounting Kadee 907s to USA Trains Bay Window & Extended Vision Caboose (Without using a glued on coupler pad block or cutting the caboose body)"

-Ted
 

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Rocky,
Here are some 1/29 caboose trucks I got from Ozark as kits a few years ago. I don't know if they still have the castings or not. I got early production runs and had do do some modifications to make them work correct. I don't believe they were ever offered on their website, maybe because of the additional work needed to make them operate as they should. I later took off the belts because of drag. Here are a few photos.











Just for kicks,take a look at the sideframes on the Aristo SD45. I modified them to a more correct flexicoil for the SD45.
The stock Aristo three brake cylinder version are fine for SD7/9's but were used very little on SD45's.

 

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Paul,

Is your SP caboose a modified Aristo "long caboose"?
My Aristo caboose looks to be off-scale (maybe 1/24) with its steps, etc. too large for 1/29 scale. If you used the Aristo caboose, what were all your mods?

Thank you,
-Ted
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ted, I believe Paul's cabeese ARE modified from Aristo's cabeese. I know paul does a lot of work to make things look right.
I too am getting ready to do a group of modified Aristo cabeese to be correct for the GN version. The Aristo long caboose is based on a 25 foot design, GN's standard is based on a 30 foot design. So not only will I have to be lowering the caboose, but making it longer too AND change the cupola to a centered side window and smaller end windows. On this early attempt, X-274 shows features of the next ones I'll be doing, but they just need to be longer. Correct Bettendorf Barber trucks will round out this modification.





A lot of special hand made details went into this model. I expect more to go on the next ones.
I got about a dozen REA cabeese I've been hording over the years, so that may yield about 5-6 kitbashed models.
I figure if I do them all at the same time like a production line, it won't take as long and be easier too. 2 of these
will be special cabeese and will need a special cupola. I'll start a thread later when I start the project.

Now GN Did have some of the 25 footers like Aristo, but they were wood side and the cupola was like X-274.
One thing I noticed on Aristo's models, most are based on a NE design. This makes it more work for those of us
who model western roads.

Rocky
 

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I presume Rocky that you move the roof latters over to the left side from the original position. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes RJ I did,
GN put their ladders on the left side on this type of caboose. I wanted to stay as prototypical as much as possible. Note one of the details added was the chain and ring from the hand rail on the end down to the coupler pulling pin. This was one of the safety features on the GN. The brakeman or conductor could pull the pin from the platform without having to go down the steps and lean over to grab the pulling lever. On the right side is the air controls to cut in and out the air to the air line on each end of the car. Once again, it can be done without leaving the platform of the caboose or leaning over the end to turn the side cock valve.

Rocky
 

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I don't get it??
 

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Craig,
No part number. Been awhile and like I said,I don't think they ever made it to the website. They were 1/29. The original castings were made by John McGuyer. Here is a photo of Johns original master.
 

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Looks like quite the cast (and build)! John M. did some nice stuff for Ozark. I haven't looked at the Ozark website recently to see if they still carry the 1/29 line. Anyway those would make a nice scratchbuild project someday if Ozark doesn't have the molds anymore. I'm surprised that they wouldn't post something like this online, or even word of mouth. I'd never seen these trucks until you mentioned it.
As for products needing extra work I order a few scale couplers from Ozark years back that I thought about using. I never perfected the assembly part for the couplers. I haven't seen them listed in a while either so maybe Dave still has the molds/casting for the couplers and trucks somewhere...



Craig
 

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Craig,
It has been probably eight years since I worked with those trucks. The problem with them was that the bolster was a little short. On one of mine I used a plastic bolster off one of the commonly available trucks. Can't remember whose. Anyway I just adaptred it to the Ozark trucks. Most of John's old castings are still available from Ozark.
 

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I know most of your work is in the past Paul...
It was asked above,...do you recall some of the process of improving your cabooses?

Thanks again.
Dirk
 

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Dirk,
Been more than 10 years on those cabeese. Tried to make them look like S.P. C40-3's. I will try to remember. Here goes. The main thing was to stretch them by adding an extra panel just ahead of the cupola. New side and end walls for cupola, modified roof walks, scratch built frog eye markers, roof antenna, end wall detail, new brass end railing detail and brake wheel housing, thinned down stock ladder and added brass holds on roof, rebuilt steps, scratch built battery box, lowered body by modifying bolsters, Kadee 1789 couplers.brass smoke stack. I did three of these. Each is a little different in roof walk detail and plugged windows. I wanted them to look a little different as the prototype did through the years. I also have a mostly scratch built bay window that closely represents an S.P. C40-4. Maybe I can find a photo.

 

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Paul, what ever happened to John?
 

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Marty,
John passed away. I believe early last year. There might be someone on this forum that knows more. He was one heck of a modeler.
 

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To bad , great guy.
 

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some times I cant even post from my phone....

I spent some time looking over SP caboose pix yesterday....
I see where it is not lots of work to reach using an A/C caboose as a starter, as Paul has done quite well..

But when I started looking at the 'same' Rio Grande cabeese,.....
well if I want one it will have to be scratch built...

they differ greatly,..

..rounded roof lines
.. rounded corners
.. different window locations
.. lacking the steel strip overlays on the sides
.. ya, .. even round window corners!!

so it will take some work to create a DRGW version,.. someday maybe!!

Dirk - I can start off with a 'wide-vision' and repaint it in the mean time tho...these ran in the later years of the road..
 

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Dirk,
When it comes to kitbashing,sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and sometimes sort of. On my baywindow I started with an MDC boxcar and reefer to get wall and roof material. There was an article in a mid 1990's Outdoor Railroader on how to do it.
 
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