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Cool.
My printer came with just a 'nut and bolt' and a 'joined chain' samples to print, so this one I'll have if it comes with her!!!
Also, if only they did print that fast.
Maybe one day.
Thanks for a bit of fun.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
 

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I want to print my printer...
 

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Mike I see fun and frustration in your future
Dennis
Yes, I little of both. I did manage to print some valves and elbows for an oil depot/tank farm facility that I am building from scratch. A dozen elbows and half dozen valves in 24 hours since delivery. Still a bit of a learning curve, but I see great use of this thing. The price was right, but it ain't the best model, I'm sure.

 

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Great job Mike, can you take a picture next to a dime, so we can see how good you really are, small parts are really difficult to print successfully.
Dennis
 

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Great job Mike, can you take a picture next to a dime, so we can see how good you really are, small parts are really difficult to print successfully.
Dennis
Will a quarter do? Here are some of the doo dads I made on the 3D printer the past week. Several of them I made many multiple copies.

 

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Mike
Great job, thanks for the quarter comparison, I am a very unusual person, my favorite part of 3D printing is the drawing of the parts I want. yea I know CRAZY
Dennis
 

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Mike
Great job, thanks for the quarter comparison, I am a very unusual person, my favorite part of 3D printing is the drawing of the parts I want. yea I know CRAZY
Dennis
I did my first design in Tinkercad, another steep learning curve, LOL A simple pipe railing


Here is a link to the STL files, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879286
 

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Looks great Mike
Were you able to print the way it is setting now?
or laying down, and did floor brackets separately
Dennis
 

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Looks great Mike
Were you able to print the way it is setting now?
or laying down, and did floor brackets separately
Dennis
Thanks Dennis!The build has the railing laying flat with the floor mounts separate, see my Thingiverse link above. I didn't want to waste a lot of time and material in supporting structure.
 

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Mike, I just bought the MP IIIPV2 and have been having trouble getting it levelled and calibrated. I'm printing a gravestone that has turned out successfully on two other printers, so I don't think it is the design. The problem is keeping the object from moving while printing.

Anyways, your stuff looks great and gives me hope for my own eventual success!
 

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Mike thanks for sharing that is what I was thinking how to print,

Greg, with my experience, it is not adhering or sticking to the table. The best glue I have tried I bought from ebay, not sure of the name. Works much better than any glue stick
Dennis
 

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Mike, I just bought the MP IIIPV2 and have been having trouble getting it levelled and calibrated. I'm printing a gravestone that has turned out successfully on two other printers, so I don't think it is the design. The problem is keeping the object from moving while printing.

Anyways, your stuff looks great and gives me hope for my own eventual success!
Well my printer came with the Y axis rods completely out of their front support brackets. Was impossible to level. I turned the printer on it's back and saw the set screws were way loose like they were never tightened. Once I set the Y rods securely, I was able to level.

What worked best for me was to adjust the table so that a card "barely" makes it under the nozzle with much resistance. Rinse and repeat several times using all four corners.

Also, I don't have a heated table, so I use a wide blue painters tape (masking tape) and covered the table. Then I use Isopropyl alcohol to wipe the top of the tape. The glue stick just made a mess of the table, so I don't use adhesive, just the tape.. I can sometimes pry the print off the tape with the putty knife without damaging the tape. If it doesn't come off (or you mess up the tape), you can lift the tape and peal the print off. Then I re-tape the table.

Heating my nozzle to 200° did the trick for me.

Oh yeah, using a brim (or raft) helps and support when necessary.

Sticking the first layer is key to a good print. Good luck!
 
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