[Chris France]

OK, so, When running trains the other week we had a "situation." I left my RS-1 (spliced from two USA S-4s) running (unattended) for just a few minutes with a 4 car passenger consist. One of my "custom shortened" Heavyweights' coupler broke loose where I had reconnected it in the "shortening" procedure. It was when the train then encountered said coach on the next run that the problem happened.

As a result of the derailment the coupler mountings both front and rear broke off at the locomotive frame.

Apparently there were nubs (for lack of a better term) sticking out of the frame that the screws were put into. They broke off with the screws still in them.

I have no idea how to repair this. It seems that if I just glue it back on that it won't be strong enough when pulling a train. Any ideas?

 

[c nelson]

Glue no, but some sort of Epoxy; built up may help?

I've found some that is made for plastics that works well when my kids break "toy X", once built up, it seems to be pretty tough!

cale

 

[wchasr]

Chris,
It looks like maybe longer screws combined with some glue would work? Just a thought anyhow?

Chas

 

[GG]

Drill out the "nubs" press in gyproc wall anchors then an appropriate screw? Top everything off with quality epoxy for good taste...


Also they have bolts with spring loaded anchors that spring out after insertion into the hole.

 

[dltrains]

Chris,

I don't know if the decking is flat or diamond plate ,but if flat I'd drill out the post remains and insert an appropriate sized plastic tube or rod then tap for the mounting screws fill the top flush with deck and repaint.If diamond plate you will have to find a matching piece or painstakingly reform the plating for finish. An easier way though less attractive would be to bolt down through the deck and have the bolt heads show on the decking although you can file these flush and finish as needed.

Dave

 

[NTCGRR]

I've runn fine thread screws into a new hole and paint the part that brakes through if seen

 

[Don Gage]

Chris,
I would consider using an appropriately sized block of hardwood to match the adapter. File,grind, sand off the original parts un the underside of the walkway, glue using slow cure CA glue and mechanically attach with small screw through the walkway. Once the block is painted you'll never see it.
Just a thought,
Don

 

[Paul Burch]

Chris,
Part of the problem is why they broke in the first place. There is a lot of stress on that bracket because it really doesnt have much support. I usually glue some kind of plastic block between the bracket and the end sill to give it extra stength.

 

[jebouck]

I removed all of that when I converted my S-4's to body mount KD 830's.
I made a correct height mounting block out of styrene for the 830, set it up with the height gauge and mounted it. It is solid as a rock.

Or just clean up everything and drill and bolt that "U" mount directly thru the floor. Use 4-40 or smaller bolts.


Do what it takes.

Forget the glue.


jb

 

[John J]

I have solved the problem three ways


I have taken a Machine thread screw long enough to pass through the area where the nubs broke off.

Something like a 4/40 machine screw.

I then drill all the way through the frame where the nubs were fastend.

I remove the screws from the nubs and insert my machine screw. I should be sticking out of the end of the nub

I then put the machine screw in the hole I drilled and put a nut on then end. The nub is back in place and screw acts like a stud.

Second I got a screw much like the one already in the nubs that is a bit longer.

I have screw the section of the longer screw sticking out of the nub and screw the nub back in place with a little glue.


Thirdly I have gotten NYLON NUTS AND SCREWS They are in the specialy drawers in the Hardware store and done much like the first suggestion I made.

 

[Chris France]

Thanks for the help guys, I'm kinda with Paul that I believe the design was slightly flawed to begin with so however I do it, I will probably incorporate some form of fore/aft bracing. I may actually do that on my regular S-4 as well. I'll let you guys know how things work out when I get a chance to redo it. Most likely later in the spring.

 

[markoles]

Chris,

Dang, I thought the wreck photos were going to be better than that! Are you sure they weren't already broken when they collided?! Then again, I don't think S-4s were ever intended to haul a train like that, even when spliced in to an RS-1.


Mark

PS, You know you should never leave a train unattended. Especially those heavyweights. Remember?