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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
 


I've finally completed a Dash-9 lowering job with lowering the engine on the trucks AND raising the tank. :)   Two engines are pictured, one lowered with a raised tank and the other is lowered with the tank still in it's original position.


























Now I just have to do the rest.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blink.gif


(Figured I would try to do my part to get new threads going in the new forums.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif


Raymond


 
 

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Nice job...... My biggest complaint about the Dash 9 was the way the trucks looked. When I measured a real Dash 9 and then translated it over the the Aristo version it was wrong. I know there are many who say the Aristo is correct but it sure as heck isn't and that part of the loco ruined its looks. I still won't buy then as I like the E8 and the GP40 more, plus they fit into the era I like most.


 


Art
 

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Raymond how much did you lower it and do the Kadee couplers line up (if you use them) now without adding shims  


Gabby
 

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You make me wish I was modeling a different era. Beautiful converstion ;)
 

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Looks good Raymond  just hope the track work is good so the tanks don't rub the rail.:)  Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks.


I do certainly agree with you on the height Art.   It was a necessity for me to lower them to look right.   The new E8s and GP-40s do look right to my eye.


The engine has been lowered about  .20 inches, not quite a full 1/4 inch(.25).  I need to check my notes, but I think the tank was raised ~.17 of an inch.   The front plow and front&rear frame plate need to be sanded some to keep them from being too close to the rail head.


The couplers do line up perfectly and went with a Kadee 787.  To install, I simply installed the coupler in the kadee box upside down and drilled the main kadee box hole out (can't remember the drill bit size off hand).   The assembled Kadee fits right on Dash-9 coupler post and I used a slightly larger washer with the original screw to hold the coupler in place. 


The worst part of the conversion is making the plates to replace the platform you cut out where the trucks ride. (I think they are called the bolsters)  I used Aluminum plates on mine for strength since the plates are only 1/8" thick.  Getting the drill holes drilled accurately and the side slots formed takes some time, but I think it's worth it.


I need to update my lowering project page, but here are photos I took from the first engine I lowered. 


http://www.rayman4449.dynip.com/Aristocraft_Dash_9_lowering_project.htm


I'll also try to post some pics of how I raised the tank.  I may do it a little differently the next time tho...
 

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I lowerd mine and had to sand down the front/rear pilots, the tank was not moved and has not been a problem. Someday I'm going to measure a 1:1 D 9 from rail to walkway just to see.
 

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Do the measuring and you will be surprised at what you come up with/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/shocked.gif  Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks RJD. 


Actually, even with the tanks not raised and going over really bad spots of track, they still don't touch. (I have one spot on my ramp that is pushed up I guess from ice swell) They come close but don't.  Once they are raised, It won't be and issue as net, the tanks will only be .03" lower than before. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Based on these photos, it looks like that at .20" the engine may be just a touch too short, but just barely.  I don't recall what the other folks came up with as far as calculations went.  Overall it didn't matter to me as I like the look of them lowered better.  I think the engine lowered to .20 is pretty darn close.


1:1





Original height:








Lowered:





 


 
 

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Its about time Ray, thought U'd never get around to it... hehe FWIW, I originally measured 2 of CSX's AC 4400s,


averaged the measurements for the 2, measured aristo model and calculated the needed lowering was .228..


So anywhere between 7/32 & 15/64 is fine... That bun-sniff pic U posted goes a long to prove the point too...


Paul R...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LOL  I know, I know.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blush.gif  It took me a while to finally get the time and also have the guts to cut up my tank.  Thanks again on sharing your work, I wouldn't have had the cu.. cu.. courage to do it without seeing yours.  ;)


I'll have to recheck my measurements on how far it's lowered.  How far did you lower yours again?


 
 

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Urs looks good the way it is Ray, Mine is about 15/64, or about .235 is where it wound up,


always thought if I did another, I'd bring it down a little less, maybe .215-.220... FWIW, I


did raise the tank also, about a 16 th off the top and an 8th off the bottom...


Paul R...
 

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Hi Raymond,


Did you, by any chance, photograph the changes you made to how the trucks are mounted in your locos after they were lowered?


Llyn
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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Raymond, Did you rise your plow before your lower the frame? Looking good like phototype.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey there Bryan:  Thanks.  What I ended up doing was taking a sanding block and sanded the bottom of the plow and front&rear pilots down so they weren't as close to the rail head.  


I really like the avatar photos.  It's great to see who's posting and who you are chatting with.  :)   (Of course I remember you Bryan from the open house.  :)  )


One thing I just added to the website write-up was the following.  This will save you alot of hassle when positioning the plates.


**************************************


To secure the plates to the frame I mounted the plates in place and drilled four holes through the plate and frame.  #2 Stainless Steel bolts and nuts (from Lowes) were used.  To get the plates properly centered, I put the plate in place, installed the truck in the slots then from the top of the frame twisted the plate clockwise or counter clockwise and slid it around to get the proper orientation.  Next I then screwed the big washer in place that holds the truck to the plate and further centered it so it was perfectly centered.  Next, I then applied hot glue in the exposed 'swing' areas where the plate was now exposed and let dry.  This freezes the plate in place so you can drill the four holes for the permanent screws without the plate sliding around or getting out of position. 


**************************************


Raymond
 

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Hi Raymond,


The photo essay in your web site spelled out your method very clearly.  Thanks.


Llyn
 
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