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Discussion Starter #1
I'm curious; has anyone converted a Bachmann 4-6-0 to a 2-8-0? I was looking at one of my Bachmann 4-6-0's that I acquired that nees some repair work and wondered it anyone had ever converted one to a 2-8-0 by adjusting the driver spacing and adding a second set of flangeless drivers and new siderods. I know I can get a new driver wheels from Bachmann.

Just wondering.

Dan S.
 

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Not quite exactly what you are looking for, but Kevin did a beautiful Mikado here http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/8/aft/111962/afv/topic/Default.aspx
 

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Tim Brien's the master of Bachmann 4-6-0 kitbashes. I'm pretty sure he's done nearly every wheel arrangement out there. (slight exageration, but only slight.) I think he posts here, otherwise you can find him over at LargeScaleCentral.com. Bart Salmons over at Large Scale Central is doing a 4-8-0 from a Big Hauler, which may provide some fodder as well.

Most folks, when wanting a 2-8-0 from a Big Hauler, just buy one of Barry's Big Trains' 2-8-0 chassis. They're not cheap, but they're bulletproof. He makes two versions designed specifically for the 4-6-0--one that uses the original Bachmann drivers spaced evenly, and one that uses smaller diameter drivers spaced like a C-16, where the two middle drivers are closer together. Barry's stuff comes with an aluminum frame, stainless steel siderods, and Pittman motor. http://www.barrysbigtrains.com

BTW, Bruce Chandler's responsible for the mikado project in armorsmith's link. I'd love to take credit for it, but I'll settle for being inspired by it.

Later,

K
 

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Hi Dan,
Go over to Large Scale Central to the modeling forum and look up WVK 4-8-0. Bart Solmons is converting a 4-6-0 to an 4-8-0 this should help you out with some ideas for your build.

Chuckger
 

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Here's a 2-8-0 chassis made from Bachmann 4-6-0 pieces and bits of brass. (It took two, of course.)



I wanted to see if the usual techniques for chassis building in the smaller scales would work for a large loco. Fortunately, brass strip is available in 1" x 1/16th or larger, so there wasn't much chopping to do. The 'usual' techniques include cutting the sides to length and then fastening them together with solder or bolts through holes, drilling pilot holes for the axles the size of the coupling rod pivots, and then making up the rods before you go any further.

It really wasn't difficult. It took me longer to figure out how to fit the motor.
 

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I build different versions of 2-8-0s. One is a narrow gauge version using 1 3/4" brass and stainless wheels, also available with 2" brass and stainless wheels.

The smaller wheel is a C-16 prototypical wheel, the larger wheel is a Baldwin wheel, like the Bachmann but with heavier counterweights.

There are two chassis, a rigid version for the Plus Big Haulers and a ANNIE version with an equalized first axle. Both have the same gear drive, very successful

design; no gear failures in ten years. The Annie version has a three segment side rod, cast in magnesium bronze, very strong.

If any one would like pictures, send me an email [email protected] and ask for what you would like to see.

Barry - BBT
 

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About 15 years ago I cobbled together a 2-8-0 drive out of a couple of old B-man drives
and fitted it to one of the "Big Haulers" that I did a major scale change to... Came out
real nice too, but I was always afraid to run it very much because the basic B-man drives
were notoriously weak... After being mostly a shelf queen for about 10 yrs, Barry came
out with his 2-8-0 drive an I got one an installed it, an I've been flogging the **** out of
it ever since... One of Barry's drives will cost U a few bucs, but U'll have a serious
choo-choo for Ur trouble...
Paul R...
 

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I did this many years ago, based on one of the original battery powered Big Haulers.
changed the motor for an LGB unit complete with gears in a home made gearbox, still got the plastic wheels on it with metal tender wheels for power pick up.
If I remember correctly the rear two axles are in the original holes and I made a new section of frame for the front two. New side rods are cut down plastic originals with a metal backing for strength.
It still sees occasional use and I always intended to change the plastic drivers for metal ones but they have not worn out yet.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nice looking. I see that you are using the standard Bachmann motor and gearbox. Are all the wheels powered via the rear set of drivers? This looks like the same technique that I used years ago to build Sn3 and On3 locomotives. I might try this out sometime.

Dan S.
 
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