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I started with the mag-15, loved it, worked like a charm, but then I went over to the dark side/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif
tom h
 

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I have a Mag 15 Bridgewerks and am very happy with it. I've heard the are very good om honoring warranty problems. The gold plated banana plugs seem very good quality and won't corrode. Has led readouts for volts & amps. Wish they were analog, but no big deal to connect analog meters. Seems a very high quality product.
 

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I havve an original 10 year old 15 amp four track unit manufactured by the previous ownership, but Dave S, (See ECLSTS photos topic for Dave's photo) has taken care of any issue. It has served us well. Our club also has the same unit and it has serves well for hundreds of hours running time with multiple locos and lighted trains.
 

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I've been one of the unlucky ones when it comes to Bridgewerks. My TDR-25 started smoking shortly after I got it and had to be returned/repaired. My first Mag-15 was DOA due to a broken wire which I repaired myself. I still own the TDR-25 (Which now has periodic flashing led readouts) and another SR-15? that has worked fine. I agree with the earlier posts that Dave S and his wife are great people and are excellent at returns. I have also owned the Aristo power supplys and never had a problem with them. While Bridgwerks is American made/assembled it isn't necessarily the best...just depends on the unit you receive. One last note, if you decide to try remote control, I've had nothing but problems with the their UR-15 and RC-100s which have been returned mulitple times and still don't work properly. If all of this was limited to just one unit, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them, but just about every single unit I've purchased has had problems. That tells me that their QC is not what it needs to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm thinking of the Mag sr series. I have a new indoor layout which has single main and some storage tracks. I'm a little better than half battery so it won't be used as a primary source. I'll only be using it for a few 4 axle 1st generation diesels every now and then. Also for visitors with track power. What amp would I really need? I was thinking the 5 amp($$$)??
 

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I have a MAG-15 which I have used with a UR-15 for several years and it has worked well for me. Before I bought the UR-15 I used it with Aristo Train Engineers but it really tended to put out too much voltage and occasionally overheated my Train Engineers. The TE's would cool off and start working again but I was measuring 29 volts from my MAG-15 so I like it better with the UR-15 to lower the voltage.

I also have a SR-15 which I like and I think it is a good supply for most applications. I think that Dave can tell you how to make a tethered remote for it (one direction only).

In addition I have a smaller (discontinued) Bridgewerks 6 amp unit which works fine but if you can afford the difference I think you will find the SR-15 a good choice in case you or a visitor ever want to run a multi engined train with lighted coaches.

Its a lot cheaper in the long run if you start out with more power than you think you might ever need. 5 amps is good. 10 amps is better and 15 amps is probably more than most will need but it is nice to have. Sometimes having more power available can get that "stuck" loco to start moving again.

My experience with most remotes is that they will only pass through 7 - 8 total amps regardless of the rating or power of the power supply.

Jerry
 

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i have an older 10 amp version -led read out, momentum, not compatible with the plug in remote

these seem to be the quality of things made fifty of more years ago-heavy metal case, sturdy and heavy- a great american made product-simple and high quality

it has had, at best, moderate use-id guess no more than 80-120 hours run time at best -some thing inside has twice failed-once a complete power failure-right at xmas no less, once everything like the leds and fans worked but no power to tracks-not dave's fault id guess but simply problem components that failed prematurely-never was there an issue of short or overload or mis connection

currently my 10 amp BW unit now has a hot spot in throttle slide, in the very low range that will make the unit jump from dead crawl to full 24 v-makes switching a 'challenge'-momentum dampens any surprises-i plan on sending it back, again....

dave has always been great

i dont think i should have had to deal with 'things' 3 times-plus the things are heavy and somewhat pricey to ship and pack well-keep the roignal box and padding

to its credit-they ARE well made -heavy durable housing, handle, power plug is removable as are track and accessories, the fan is great as you can triple head, with a long train, on a grade, at a crawl, and the unit wont overheat-and run many lights and swiches and pola water mill etc, and theres plenty of power

a fantastic feature is these units have 0-24 v track, fixed 24 DC, fixed 12 dc (great for lights) and fixed 16 or 18 v ac -for swuitches-they are really super in this regard-and the power is huge and smooth
the banana plugs are also great for using the unit outside (probably not recommended i guess) but i do in dry weather0 plug in the bananas-unplug and use the carrying handle back into the house-some of my banana plugs 'springs' have separated from the body and i have simply soldered them to avoid this nuisance

another seemingly simple but great feature it the metal 'governor' plate which limits the upper range of throttle bar travel-protects me from myself-and of course, those who are new to running my trains-in essence it keeps trains from being run like slot cars-eliminates needless detail and paint damaging derailments and pile ups

HOWEVER i have to say, these niggling issues i have experienced, together with a recent bad review about the quality of the bridgewerks remotes, and voltage leakage to the track and thier limited range, prompted me to buy an lgb 6 amp ac unit with outdoor throttle AND the big 10 amp with tethered remote-neither is anywhere near the value of BW but the lgb throttles are superb -smooth and responsive

id would buy a BW again
 

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I have the 15 amp SR. It's great ... no problems. I have heard that because the unloaded voltage may be higher than expected that it may be a good idea for safety to connect a light bulb or something else to provide resistance of one kind or another to the permanent voltage terminals, so that it's never truly unloaded when on.

The only difference between th SR and the older mag 10/15's is the terminals to allow remote controlling of the speed..... something else I plan to take advantage of, eventually.

Matthew (OV)
 

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Like Statecreek said... I have ck'ed out a few of there Power packs for guys layouts and most of them put out with no load, 28 volts. I just tested out a 4 bank older model that was sold on e-bay. and it did the same thing on each bank...
One of my Buddy's had a problem with a couple of USA Streamlines pass cars to show off the lighting.. He turned on the power to the track with nothing else on tracks and all the lights went poof. If he had an Eng. or more cars on the tracks probably wouldn't of burned out the lights...
We found out if there is some kind of a load on the track, the max voltage comes back down to 24 volts. Seems like it need some to reference to?

So Don't turn up the throttle wide open with just one or two USA pass cars on it.

Other than that there great power supply's.. Most likely last a life time. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif

Now i got to make a post on how do you get these darn USA Pass cars apart to re-do or repair the lighting? /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/crying.gif
 

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Master of Disaster
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I had 2 Mag 15s' loved them...I sold one for $50 less then I origionally paid for it and used iot for 5 years...solid perfomer!

I still use one as my test amp as I don't use track power any longer.

Now others may or have posted troubles with them, but I cannot say anything bad about them.

This is just MHO...now you have to decide..may the force be with you.

Bubba
 

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I use a Mag 5 with the UR15 remote and I am very happy with them. I originally bought an older discontinued model and used it for about a year until all the smoke came out of it. I contacted Dave about it and sent it to him for repair. He ended up replacing it for me as he had changed the design and components over the years. He charged me nothing for the new unit. I have had no problems with the new unit nor the remote and I get great reception with it.

At the Fairplex Garden RR we use quite a lot of BW units and have had very little trouble with them. I think many of the problems people have had with bad units have been with the older units. Dave has continued to refine his design and makes a superior product in my opinion.

Steve
 

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Expensive. Very reliable. Very nice.

Too expensive for me. Now I've gone over to the dark side.
 

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I went through the same process a few months ago. I was looking at replacing my two MRC 6200s. I actually managed to talk to some one from Bridgewerks on the phone.
While I ended up not replacing the MRCs, I agree with most of the posts.

The are two drawbacks....
1)They are very expensive
2)The new releases don't have power plugs for accessories(switches) and they have no plans to provide it. You will have to provide power for accessories and lights with another power source. Perhaps the MRC that you may be replacing.

Deano
 

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One thing that always bothered me about Bridgewerks is that they give you very little information about the performance and specs of their power supplies on their web site.

http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bridgewerkscc2.png

No mention of electrical parameters like the voltage output range or the regulation or the VA rating or the ripple (even though Bridgewerks makes an issue of the last two elsewhere on their website).


Instead they tell me the weight of the controller which is really immaterial in most cases and mention such important features as a "ball-bearing" fan, a 'speed governor' (what ever that is) and a 'quick disconnect gold-plated plug' which I doubt can handle the 15 amps of the higher powered unit.


Maybe Bridgewerks thinks the average Large Scale model railroader doesn't understand these parameters. To me it makes a big difference if the maximum voltage the controller supplies is 16, 24 or 28 volts, what the regulation is over the voltage range etc.

Maybe I went to the dark side as well - I just use an inexpensive commercial 24 volt switching supply with an external controller. The voltage output is always the same regardless of current draw, ripple is barely measurable, and no fan is needed for the lower powered units (up to 7 amps or so) because of the high efficiency of those units.

Turns out my trains also run much better because there is no voltage sag as the current requirements increase when my train heads up an incline.
 

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Posted By krs on 09/28/2008 3:19 PM
One thing that always bothered me about Bridgewerks is that they give you very little information about the performance and specs of their power supplies on their web site.

http://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bridgewerkspz3.jpg




(Sorry - the new mls software assumes that the image you want to post s hosted on mls. This image is hosted on imageshack and of all the little icons above the body field, there isn't a single one I could find that lets you add an image hosted elsewhere.)

No mention of electrical parameters like the voltage output range or the regulation or the VA rating or the ripple (even though Bridgewerks makes an issue of the last two elsewhere on their website).


Instead they tell me the weight of the controller which is really immaterial in most cases and mention such important features as a "ball-bearing" fan, a 'speed governor' (what ever that is) and a 'quick disconnect gold-plated plug' which I doubt can handle the 15 amps of the higher powered unit.


Maybe Bridgewerks thinks the average Large Scale model railroader doesn't understand these parameters. To me it makes a big difference if the maximum voltage the controller supplies is 16, 24 or 28 volts, what the regulation is over the voltage range etc.

Maybe I went to the dark side as well - I just use an inexpensive commercial 24 volt switching supply with an external controller. The voltage output is always the same regardless of current draw, ripple is barely measurable, and no fan is needed for the lower powered units (up to 7 amps or so) because of the high efficiency of those units.

Turns out my trains also run much better because there is no voltage sag as the current requirements increase when my train heads up an incline.


 

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Super Modulator
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Like Tom said, expensive, big and heavy, and most reports reliable.

But, for some reason, people think "filtered DC" or "Pure DC" is best for running. Actually mild pulse power will give you better performance than heavily filtered DC.

The big thing for me is voltage sag. I guess a 15 amp supply for one train makes sense if you are running multiple locos and lots of lighted passenger cars.

I stick with inexpensive regulated supplies (switchers) When I can buy a reliable MeanWell 11 amps and 27 volts (I need the voltage for DCC) for $80, it just makes more sense to me.

Regards, Greg
 

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Posted By Greg Elmassian on 09/29/2008 10:31 AM

But, for some reason, people think "filtered DC" or "Pure DC" is best for running. Actually mild pulse power will give you better performance than heavily filtered DC.




I think this depends on the specific motor and to some degree on the gearing that is used.

Low cost 3 and 5-pole motors do work better with mild pulse power especially at low speeds, but I don't think that is true for the 7-pole Buehler motors.


When I switched from a traditional model train power supply to a Meanwell switching supply and the analog trackside Aristo Train Engineer, my LGB engines ran noticably better.
Part of that I'm sure is the voltage regulation of the Meanwell, but the Meanwell is also very close to pure DC.
 

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Side question............

Why did my last two posts show up inside a box?

I think it has something to do with me trying to quote in the last post - but in the one before I tried to edit the image file.


This forum still needs some serious fixing of the software.
 
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