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Discussion Starter #1
Inspired by the recent posts regarding bashing a Connie I finally summonded up courage to take up the tools and make a start.
So far the cab has been moved back opened and re-glazed,pipework extended,tender mods started etc.Thought that would be enough but that Baker gear!!!!!!!!looks great moving but I cannot stand it,too big and cluttered Stephensons looks much neater.
OK then how to convert? I liked the looks of the loco Rod Hayward did but did not want to use inside cams,bad experiences in the past.What I am in the middle of doing,in between pulling out our bathroom and re-fitting, is to drive the valve rods from the piston rods via a striker system.This means opening up the tops of the cylinders and the bottoms of the valve chest mouldings.So far the opening up has been done and the crossheads modified by removing the cast on drop links.All good so far and pics will follow once any obstacles have been overcome.
One thing I have noticed though is that with one exception all the screws removed in the dis-assembly were distinctly not tight,rather worrying really.
Regards
Bunny
 

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Bunny,
Not surprising really. The model, while a beautiful thing in and of itself, has been plagued with this problem. I suspect it goes back to China where the models are assembled. Fortunately, you are in a perfect position to correct this! Also, I too would love to see some pics of your bash!
 

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I would nt worry too much about the eccentrics, ditching the Baker gear will help immensely. All you relly need is to get some Loctite 222 and dab it on the screws that hold the counterbalaces on, and really , come to think of it any of the stuff that you have disassmbled when you put it back together.

Best of luck..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rod
Baker gear is history,managed to tap out the rear of the cylinders and then the gland castings to reduce the length of them thereby giving a tad more length on the piston rods for the attachments of the striker mechanism,this is now epoxied on and curing overnight.I have tested the mech and there is no fouling with the additions.Next will be to fix the uprights for the strikers and fix contacts on the valve rods to give them the correct movement.If all goes well with this I will take pics and post.
Regards
David
 

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At the risk of stating the obvious make sure any re-assembly/mods are completely free to move. The plastic final drive cog in the Connie is not known for its resilience. If you ve got the chassis out its an idea to take the motor/gearbox off so you can roll the chassis as a check. Also it means you can loctite the motor/gearbox screws, which on some version are known to be less than tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Valve operating mech diagram,bottoms of valve chests and tops of cylinders opened first.Yes Rod the motor screws were loose!
 
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