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Posted By kormsen on 22 Dec 2010 06:52 PM
this whole thread is childish.
is there a slight possibility, that one of the two "combatants" will behave grown up?

the only person, who´profits from this is Curmudgeon, who does not have to prowl ebay for entertainment anymore.
Now that was just rude Sir............


 

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Awww....DANG!! I'm all out of popcorn again.... (*Sigh) Now I gotta go to the store and get another box of ACT II Movie Butter microwaveable popcorn.... (really tasty!)
 

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So after 81 replies, we have had ONE user that has a board in hand make a comment. The rest has mostly been a pissing contest.

Personally, my only concern with these connectors is how "user friendly" they are. Do we have any other PB-11 owners that can give us some feedback?

As far as reliability goes, this style of connector (Spring Cage Clamp) is not new technology. I first saw them in use for critical use industrial controls at least 10 years ago. Those applications are orders of magnitude more demanding than large scale trains. Also, Phoenix Contact, the manufacture of these parts, is one of the highest quality maker of terminal strips in the business. I am not promoting the use of these parts. I would just like to hear some feedback from those with hands-on experience (college degrees are optional).
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Del, I was on the Phoenix Contact site, I did not see a Phoenix Contact product that matched the Phoenix Sound Systems pictures.

It's clear the Phoenix Contact stuff is nice quality. It is not clear their design is the same as what is on the PB11. If you look carefully at the Ideal products data sheets, they are different also.

I'm concerned about the product design of what Phoenix Sound Systems is using.

Maybe someone can get the manufacturer of the connector.

Regards, Greg
 

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Just another old guy
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I received an e-mail from Jim at Phoenix today saying he should have my boards out to me before the new year.
Tommy

Rio Gracie
 

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When I discussed the upcoming ( at that time) PB11 with the Phoenix SOUND guys at York back in March 2010, the name used for the connector then was indeed Phoenix contact. They had not quite decided , but were leaning strongly toward this connector for the PB11 to reduce cost, size, and user error(loose strands touching, loose screws), while maintaining quality. The comment was made that on the PB9, the most expensive part was the screw connector. I have a number of pb11 on hand here but have no opinion yet,since none are in extended service obviously. The connectors certainly seem fine and robust during installation and setup.

Jonathan/EMW
 

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I can well believe it when Phoenix sound say they were the most expensive part on the PB9 pcb.
Although I have not experienced plug and socket failure on the P8, I can well believe the ultra small plugs and sockets used on the P5 and now the P8 are too prone to failure.
Whatever types of terminals are used they have to be no more than 1/10" spacing to fit on the smaller pcb's.
1/10" inch spacing screw terminals are MUCH more expensive than the wider spaced screw terminals. Hence like me, Phoenix sound are looking to help keep costs under control.

When I run out of the current stock of the 1/10" spaced 4 x way screw terminals I am currently using, I am willing to give the spring type a trial as long as I don't have to buy thousands.
I can always revert to 1/10" spaced plugs and sockets if I have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I wonder if there is any news now that more people must have used them.

Haven't heard any more good or bad.

Maybe no one is spending money.

Greg
 

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The 2 new PB11's arrived today. Took a look at them. Found out that a paper clip is quite a tight fit to release the spring clip. A pin works very easily. First, I stuck the pin in all the holes and it went fine. Then I put a wire in, removed it and did this 5 times, no problem. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to install it.









Tommy

Rio Gracie
 

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i installed a PB11 back in December and found it to be very user friendly. i didn't have a paper clip around, so i used a small brass rod from my modeling supplies to "unspring" the clamp. the wire went in fine and stayed nice and tight once i pulled out the brass rod.

inserting the single wires was a breeze, and i would suggest following phoenix's advice about soldering the 3 wires from the reeds (the 3 that all go into slot 12 i believe) before inserting them. i just twisted them together tightly and had a little difficulty making sure that all 3 would stay in when i pulled out the brass rod. i did eventually get it to work and am really enjoying the new sound card on my train. highly recommended, and i found the gang over at phoenix to be great for customer service!
 

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My personal opinion of these spring cage connectors – I don’t like them. Give me back the screw terminals. When installing the first PB11, I had trouble with the speaker wires and volume control wires. Seems the spring connectors offered more resistance than I was expecting. This caused the wire to bend instead of sliding into the clip. On the second installation, I did the volume and speakers first. No problem. After testing the sound board, it was time to remove my connections, trim my wires, tin and reinstall. Unfortunately when I went to put the power #2 wire in, it did not grab. What!!! There was no longer a spring connector to insert into. All I had was a hole. I eventually shoved a little screwdriver into the top of the whole and forced some metal down. Mental note – if there is a problem with this engine in the future, look at the #2 wire. All in all I found the spring cage connectors frustrating.
Performance wise the PB11’s work great. I have run both of them for about 12 hours now. Even with these connectors I will be buying some more sound boards by summer and they will definitely be Phoenix.

Tommy
Rio Gracie
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Thanks Tommy, you have voiced actual experience with what I was afraid of, losing tension, not handling release well, and all the other issues associated with this type of connector.

They (no matter what they try to advertise it for) are necessarily designed for a certain size and strength wire, and of a consistent, smooth surface... wire too weak, won't push the spring away. Too strong, spring bends. Twisted and soldered, not nice contact area.

There's some really nice, expensive ones, but these aren't them. They were used to save money, not make the product better.

Probably the best thing is to use a piece of solid wire of the optimal size for the connector, and solder all your wires to this solid wire.

Regards, Greg
 

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Kinda knocks the slats out from under the clueless, doesn't it?
 
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