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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello:  Can someone give me the profile of code 250 rail I am going to make a dual track bender.  I haven't bought the track as of yet so I would also like some suggestions.  The idea of wooden ties and handlaid track is appealing, but maybe not a good idea for a track bender?

Thanks
 

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Hello, KYYADA, and welcome to MLS! If you want to send me a SASA I'll send you a short piece.

Just let me know,
Matt
 

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I recommend sending for a sample from your supplier. Most offer samples for a reasonalbe price. There are profile differences, mainly in the base, with code 250. This is a consideration when purchasing pre-made tie strips and bulk rail. Not all combinations are compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice.  I guess I can rough the wheels in and re cut them again when I buy the track.  I found a guy on a web site that bent the flex track them took the ties off and handlaid the track then slide new rails on the ties he took off and started again. He said about an hour a foot!  Is that the best way to go?    
 

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The benders which I use bend one rail at a time. Just curve the rail (can be close, not exact) then slide the rail into the ties. File the end of the rail with bevels so that it doesn't snag on the plastic. Run a candle along the edge and bottom of the rail for lubrication. Should be able to assemble about 6 feet of track in about 15 minutes. It is important that you nip between the ties every third tie or so (for aristocraft and lgb ties) on the OUTSIDE of the curve so that your ties curve easily.

I have used the Train Li railbender which can bend both rails in place on the ties. It is an easier way to go, but is alot more expensive. 

If you're spiking your own track,  bend the rail first then spike it.   One or two plastic ties every foot or so should be sufficient to hold the rail in shape while spiking.  I use wood gauge blocks my self.   About an hour per foot sounds about right. 

Terl
 
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