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Discussion Starter #1
I've been wanting a Challenger for a long time, it comes through here about once or twice a year. With help from Ray and Marty, with their photos of their Big Boys and Challengers and the photos I took of the Challenger here on stops and #3977 that is on display in North Platte I got off to a good start.

[url]http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/JerryBarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/3977ChallengeralowRez.jpg[/b][/url]
[/b]oversized pic (lareger than 640pixels wide) changed to a link Jim Francis, Moderator



On my computer, I pieced together my pictures and printed off a full size 1/29th plan to match the wheels on the Pacifics(which are just the right size!). I started with the tender, had read someplace that if you don't build it first, you'll never get it done!


I used some bulkheads of plywood, layered over some 1/16" plastic. Then embossed some copper foil with the rivet patterns, going right over the plan print out.


Then added details. Mike Kidman got me some Big Boy trucks, had made my own side frames, did not know he was sending those also, still need to mount those.

http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/JerryBarnes/Challenger%20Kitbash%20Build/ChallTnderSidFrmsLg.JPG[/b]
oversized pic (greater than 640 pixels wide) changed to a link Jim Francis, Moderator



Once the tender was about done, I tore apart the two old Pacifics I had obtained. One had a black plastic u-joint, the other a brass tube joint with two slots in it. Different runs I guess. Once they were torn down I could see how to join them up. Rear drive is fixed, but I needed a 1/2" rise to have room below the running boards for the pipework, so I used some plywood blocks. The front drive got a drop for clearance with some washers and a bolt, since it will pivot.


A Graupner u-joint hooks the front motor(which is mounted to the front of the rear fixed drive) to the front drive and allows it to Pivot.



A 1/2" square tubing lays across to bolt the two together.


Runs fine, so now to the details-be awhile before I'm back!

The front smoke box you see here will be removed, pistons will stay where they are. Smokebox has to be lengthened and mounted to the boiler, which does not pivot.



having fun, Jerry
 

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Jerry, looks like you're off to a GREAT
start on this project. Seems to run very smoothly, even in it's current stripped-down form.
Keep us posted on your progress (going to be a BEAST!
).
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, those pix were about a month's worth of work and head scratchin' to figure it all out. I've also thought a guy could use a new Pacific, but only need one set of drivers with a motor and have the front drivers just rolling along, since the newer Pacifcs are pretty strong.
 

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Hi Jerry,
Your project looks great and it's going to be a lot of fun to see the progress that you make. Below is an idea you may want to use for the drive wheels. Seemed to work ok for me and looks good from a distance.
Joel

I cut out a pattern for the divers and traced all of the holes onto the backside of some thin plastic.



The holes were cut out, and the insert was painted.

They were then placed over the existing spokes to see which spokes would have to be cut out.


Once the spokes were removed, the insert was dropped into place.

Not bad if you look at it from a distance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
JOel,
I had remembered that, already have some drawn out and started cutting. Wish I had recalled who had done it, took a lot of work to come up with a pattern. All 3 are a different pattern, but I had to alter it some to fit in with the Pacific counterweights. You don't feel the removal of some spokes weakened the wheels any? Right now I am using the big Pacific weights, wonder if that is too much?
 

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Hi Jerry,
You are right; cutting out the spokes did weaken the wheels a little. If I were to do it again, I think I would fill the areas between the remaining spokes with some kind of epoxy like JB Weld to beef them up a little bit. (Some day I would like to try resin castings in the center with stainless steel turned tires. That would be quite a project!) You also are correct about building the tender first. I’m still working on one for my most resent model and can’t seem to get the motivation to get it done!
BTW your tender looks great! What technique did you use to make your rivets?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Joel,
I used some copper craft foil. Laid the print out of the tender on it and used a pounce wheel for the rivet patterns. It has little points on a wheel, as you push it it makes rivet looking patterns. I used two sizes, one was an old leather or sewing pounce thing. Other was a commercial one from an art/sign shop store. Just type in pounce wheel on the internet and you'll see a pix. I use mine all the time for stuff. I think I'll just leave the spokes behind, make them flat black, paint the insert a shiny black.
 

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It might be better the other way around, the flat black will probably be easier to see than the gloss under normal lighting conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had made my own Centipede tender side frames for the Challnger, then had received some USA side frames, but they were $90, so I decided to use the ones I made, which I thought looked fine, after painting.

I did use the USA tender trucks though, they were not as pricey.


Front angle.

Back view, you can see the taped off front of a Pacific front light that I'm using for the back. I need to put back on the two Pacific

marker lights that I'm using for the back marker lights.

having fun!
 

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Posted By vsmith on 01/11/2009 5:36 PM
Jerry.

You.....



More pics Mr. Insane !


Gee Vic, you caught me in the morning before I had time to run a comb accross my head.
[/b]
 

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Impressive! Most impressive!! (Obi-Wan has taught you well...) Seriously, that is some nice scratch building and bashing!! I completely agree with Stan that it's going to look great at Marty's place in September (of course this means that you now have a definite deadline!)
 
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