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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm the proud owner of one of the large Catatonk shays, and when making it sure it was good for SHAY DAYS next week, I ran it on a rolling road. Everything looked good, but on close inspection axles 2 and 4 (from the front) did not seem to be connected to the drive.

When turned upside down, these two axles spin freely, and there is no indication of a set-screw to connect the gear to the actual axle.

I do not want to disassemble each truck, but may be forced to do so unless there is an unseen fix.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank,

Will
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pete, you may be correct. Everything is there to power the four axles, they all appear the same, but two simply don't work.

To me, it doesn't seem logical to have only two powered.
 

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I agree, it doesn't seem logical, would need all the traction possible to keep the wheels from slipping. Don't know if this helps. On the Climax where the drive is not visible Mike made both axles powered, can see obvious set screws on the gears. If there are no visible set screws on 1 & 3 how about off pins between the axle and gear collar? Could he have used an adhesive?
 

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I'm the proud owner of one of the large Catatonk shays, and when making it sure it was good for SHAY DAYS next week, I ran it on a rolling road. Everything looked good, but on close inspection axles 2 and 4 (from the front) did not seem to be connected to the drive.

When turned upside down, these two axles spin freely, and there is no indication of a set-screw to connect the gear to the actual axle.

I do not want to disassemble each truck, but may be forced to do so unless there is an unseen fix.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank,

Will
Will,
Just checked my Catatonk, there are supposed to be set screws on all the gears. Pull one of the set screws and check the size and replace the two missing. I don't know the size, but if you are lucky, it will be a metric size and not a BA size. Metrics are available at hardware stores.
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Will,
Just checked my Catatonk, there are supposed to be set screws on all the gears. Pull one of the set screws and check the size and replace the two missing. I don't know the size, but if you are lucky, it will be a metric size and not a BA size. Metrics are available at hardware stores.
Dan
Dan, thanks. What is surprising, is there are no set screws, even on the axles that are powered. My first thought was that a couple set screws were loose, but there are none there, unless they are hidden by the side frames. I have to look into that. Disassembly of a truck isn't what I want to do, but that's my last resort.
Will
 

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Dwight, now that you mention it, I remember replacing the U joints on my Heisler with ones with set screws. I sent Mike the engine and he rebuilt it, a little bigger bore. He also removed the play which allowed the shafts to extend when navigating curves. I installed sliding shafts like on a Shay to make up that difference. Nice running work of art.
 

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Dan, thanks. What is surprising, is there are no set screws, even on the axles that are powered. My first thought was that a couple set screws were loose, but there are none there, unless they are hidden by the side frames. I have to look into that. Disassembly of a truck isn't what I want to do, but that's my last resort.
Will
I just checked my (rather battered) Catatonk Shay - no set screws so I suspect loctite has been used to secure the gears to the drive shafts and to the axles.

61900


Robert
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unfortunately, Mike chose to use Loctite instead of set screws on the Shays and the Heisler. I owned a Heisler, and the u-joints would come loose from the drive shaft. While I don't know for certain, you may have a similar issue where the Loctite broke loose.

Dwight, how did you solve the lock tight problem with yours?

Whatever the fix is, I'll have to wait till my return from SHAY DAYS. I'm leaning towards drilling and tapping a small hole for set screws. It seems to be a straight forward sollution.

Regards,

Will
 

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Dwight, how did you solve the lock tight problem with yours?

Whatever the fix is, I'll have to wait till my return from SHAY DAYS. I'm leaning towards drilling and tapping a small hole for set screws. It seems to be a straight forward sollution.

Regards,

Will
Actually, I never really did. One of the drive shafts broke loose from a u-joint while I was at an NSS. Luckily, Norm Saley (Sr?), was also there. He took the locomotive and "temporarily" fixed it... not sure how. One thing I avoided after that was forcibly pushing the loco back and forth to clear the condensate from the cylinders. The Heisler was notorious for condensate.

Anyway, my plan was to machine some new brass u-joints with set screws. Just never got around to doing so, and now I've sold her. I totally informed the buyer of the problem, and the potential solution.

I think drilling and tapping the gears for set screws is the best plan.
 

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I have had two of these Mike Chaney Shay, including the one I now own.

Mike used Locktite for a number of shaft/component connections, including on the crankshaft, valve shaft, and drive shafts. Solution for crankshaft is silver soldering (Norm Saley Sr. did both of mine), solution for other shaft/component connections is to mill a flat on the shaft and drill/tap for set screw in the component.

I don't think continued use of Locktite should be considered a satisfactory solution except as a temporary one.
 

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I have repaired my Shay and Climax, as well as several for other people, using micro roll pins. available from FastenRight at the link below. This precluded disassembly. I used 1 mm roll pins. I just located the shafts in a "V" block centered on the drill press, drilled through the gear, etc. and shaft. Then pressed in the roll pin after cutting to length.

 
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