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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a dumb question, I know. Hard to believe it's not clear, I know, but bear with me please.


What is meant by flex track? I have a piece of software called "rail modeller" that lets me insert  sections of LBG flex trax and bend them, within lmits--does it come in sections like that?  I ask because  I bought a few 5 foot sections of Aristo 335 track, and noticed it was very flexible--it seemed like it would be quite easy to take four or five sections of that track and make a nice gentle curve. Does that count as flex track? If I got a rail bender, could I get a five foot section to make a sharper curve? I have a beginner's book which says "if you need a rail bender, it's tme to switch to sectional track."


Then I see brass rail sold in single 8 foot lengths, and ties sold seperately as well--is this what's meant as flex track? I'd buy a bunch of 8 foot sections and bend them either gently by hand or usng a ral bender, then slip them into the ties? That seems extremely hard to do--how do you ever get two seperate rails to the same curve. It seems dauntingly hard.


Is there a good primer anywhere on using flex track? My wife and I are planning to add on to our holiday layout and make it year round, and I want to do it right.


 


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you that is very helpful. Am I right to assume I can find code 332 rail setup to flex?  I'm not talking about a lot of flex, just some. 


 


I never see code 332 track sold as "flex," although I read about it.


 


I have to look at the track I bought and see if the plastic connectors are cut
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Posted By pimanjc on 01/03/2008 12:12 PM


Although the term "flex track"  was coined with 8ft strips of track, to which sets of "flex ties" could be added, and then bent to whatever curves desired, any length of track can be use as flex track for bending if some of the tie connectors are cut out and the rail anchor screws are removed.   Using my Train-Li dual railbender, I actually prefer two or three foot sections for bending to the longer rails. 


Hear are some links to archived threads on using the Train-Li. 


URL1.   archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp


URL2.  archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp


URL3.  archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp


I have used the railbender on brass and aluminum 332.


JimC.



 


 


This is sort of what I thought--the train li bender's not cheap, but it looks like it'd work like a charm
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also as I look at those threads on the train li I see you can bend radius1 cruves. I have a ton of lgb 1100 curves, the result of some gifts given to my son over the years by his late grandfather. maybe 5 full circles worth. I could use the bender to re shape those and it would pay for itself in saving the cost of new track


Interesting--thanks!


 


 
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
A rail bender is a fantastic tool--I use mine all the time. As to track, the are some annoying things about LGB track. The ties are too big. But if you don't care about appearance, that's no problem. But the joiners--they're very unreliable. They're great for a while, but then the lose tension and you get losses in track power. The ties are fixed to the track by the joiner, and it's sort of a pain to remove the joiner. I end up bending them open and kind of wrenching them off, then throwing them away. You can buy track clamps which fit over the joiners, and work well that way, which are a great idea, but Iv'e found over time that I've removed all the LGB slip-joiners.

Aristo uses a system with very small machine screws, and it works very well--much better long term than the LGB slip joints. But the little screws are not easy to deal with. You should look at AML track. The quality is good and it's cheaper than aristo.

If I were starting from scratch today I would probably go with code 250 track in nickel silver
 
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