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New here not to the Hobby we've had a garden railroad for over 30 years in central Florida switching over to DCC need suggestions on cable and plug to run from 2028D to tender. Video LGB Trains 2 - YouTube
 

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Greg, as far as current I assume that the DCC puts full power to the track all the time 18 volts maybe. Number of pins I'm thinking 8 or 10, motor, track, front light, smoke, cab light. How about a speaker recommendation, I have a 2 and 1/2 in speaker mount in the tender I'll be using a Phoenix SM18St. I'm looking at two connectors from all electronics with 22 awg wire 6 pin and 4 pin. I'll use the 4-pin for the track and the motor.
Thanks
Dan
 

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Since you will not need the LGB electronic for DCC, RailPro, battery power systems, etc., just take it all out and put it aside. Since you will probably need the wiring between the engine and tender to have a plug for disconnection the two I just this type of plug. Remember you are going to need somewhere around a 6-10 prong connector, I used the 8 connector, two for motor power, headlights, marker lamps, cab light, and fire flicker light, I do not want a smoke unit. Now if you want smoke it's going to take 2 more and if you are going to use track power it may take 2 more. All being said I purchased a kit like this on Amazon and its more then I need, but I have given some to my RR buddies for there conservations. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081N6K54...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl These are probably the smallest plugs that you can work with, plus use wires from 18gauge to 30gauge, personally the only ones that have the larger wires would be the motor power wires and the smokebox wires. You will have to make these up yourself and put them together, I had no problem, but working with this type of stuff for me is easily done. Do remember here that LGB wire color code is not the same as NMRA codes and what most DCC, or other systems wire there colors are will be different. So changed my LGB wire to go with my RailPro color wires so it's easier to wire, or to your DCC system colors, plus tracing problems later, colored wires are a must for easy tracing. Chose your electronic operating system and go from there, all are pretty easy to install and just do a little at a time till you get familiar with it, Good Luck.

trainman
Greg, as far as current I assume that the DCC puts full power to the track all the time 18 volts maybe. Number of pins I'm thinking 8 or 10, motor, track, front light, smoke, cab light. How about a speaker recommendation, I have a 2 and 1/2 in speaker mount in the tender I'll be using a Phoenix SM18St. I'm looking at two connectors from all electronics with 22 awg wire 6 pin and 4 pin. I'll use the 4-pin for the track and the motor.
Thanks
Dan
Do remember here that LGB will take more power to run your engines and all DCC systems will require additional voltage power as there base units will not give enough power to run these engines. Do look into RailPro battery power, it takes all the fun out of model railroading, no track power, no wiring, no track to clean. Watch the YouTube videos and see what this system can do, they are becoming very popular, they may cost a little more upfront, but the cost per added engine is around $250, module, speaker, battery, charging harness. I purchase from RCS of New England, talk with Don Sweet, he is so helpful and will walk you through what ever you need to know.

trainman
 

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Yeah, we we know you like Railpro trainman... but there is an entire discussion of battery vs track power.... really not cool to answer a DCC question with "why not go battery"... I can give you a dozen reasons why I am track power.

So to Dan's questions on speakers: I like the Visaton speakers, and you can get them at parts-express.com great prices... you can see the dimensions and the frequency response.

I've used the FRS7 in many cases:

Greg
 

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I have done many LGB mogul engines to run on analog and DCC track power. I keep the 3 pin cable intact as it has track power already connected. I just add a 2 pin cable for speaker (polarity does not matter and wood tenders do not have a rear light). Decoder will fit in the firebox with no problem!! I use zimo decoders and sound volume is remotely controlled by the decoder (cv's 395, 296, 397). Also the LGB smoke unit can be controlled with 3 different heats for idle running and heavy load. You can also tune the chuff rate BMF settings.
 

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Greg thanks for the speaker recommendation I'll check into that one. I too have no interest in battery-power we've had a Garden Railroad for over 30 years, never had a problem with the track power.
Dan thanks for the information that's another option I'll check out.
 

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I like smoke and sound, the smoke unit can use as much power as the motor, so battery power was not the choice for me, also I like some small locos, like the 0-6-0 switcher (on sale for $299 at Charles Ro, by the way), again no room for batteries. There are many advantages and disadvantages to each method, I just object to a question specifically on track power getting a response to go battery. Try going on a battery power thread and recommending track power, all **** breaks loose!

Anyway the Visitons work great, and the link I gave you has them about 1/2 the price that most vendors sell them for.

If you can, put an enclosure on the back side of the speaker, if only a spray can top... really makes a difference in the bass!

Greg
 

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I do speakers like Greg and if there is room I add soft foam to help asorb the back air flow/sounds. Even the LGB sound cars sound better and I use laundry detergent caps for these.
 
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