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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day all,

I started in large scale in 1994 after seeing an LGB loco in my local hobby shop, I am finally BUYING a ready made, not scratched or masterclass loco!!!

My first track was some old "I" section aluminium curtain rail laid into 3 layers of ply for ties. I ran about 20 metres of loop and all home made battery power. The plan was to buy ready mades but that only ever amounted to a pair of LGB gondolas (now long deceased).

So, I have built half of a Mason Bogie, a 2-4-0 variant of the CPH masterclass, 1 Masterclass Carter Bros combine and the basics of 3 more coaches to the same masterclass, an A class Climax to the GR plans (sorta). All of my scratched critters and caricatures that ran on the old curtain rail are long gone now.

BUT, NOW, I have access to some money and have ordered a Bachmann Annie from my local loco bootlegger, Adelaide Garden Railway Supplies and will add an order for rail and turnouts.

SO, I have never owned a manufactured loco before! I intend to convert to battery and possibly R/C (Tony's RCS? EVO). What are the steps to install only battery, I've read Tony's, the postings at OVGRS and George's tips.

As some background, I am on a limited time budget here as some of you will know, I was diagnosed with terminal bone cancer in October last year, I am still fairly well, while most others at my stage are hospitalised I am still driving short distances as required (safely).

Did I say that I was excited?

Any advice will be appreciated, thanks,

Tim
 

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Hello Tim.

Will you be adding an after market sound system?

If not the installation is very easy.
Think of the Annie tender as a sort of trail car. Plenty of room for two 7.2 volt Sub C battery packs and a suitable R/C ESC system.
You need the batteries, a Y-CABLE to put the two packs in series, a method of charging the batteries, an ON-OFF switch and a fuse.
Simply connect the ESC output to what were the track pick ups in the loco and it will behave just the same as if it were track powered except there will be no track pick up problems.

I have many battery R/C installation articles on the Internet, but not one of the Annie.

I would be quite happy to do the installation for the cost of the components for you, as I would like to document how I do an Annie.

You can call me during business hours for more detailed information.
 

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Tim,
I thnk you will like the Annie alot. I have several of them that came with Christmas train sets that I have purchased. Since yours is a NEW one, it will have the 5th generation drive trane in it, which is very stout. All of mine have this drivetrane in them. I have taken it from full trackpower forward to backwards ( not recommended by the manufacturer) and it held up nicely.

Tony,
As for the electrical pick-ups on the Annie, it has a compartment in the tender for a nine volt battery, which powers the "chuffing" sound card in it, and plugs into the Locomotive. The power pickup for the Loco is 2 thin brass strips that make contact with the drivers via brass bushings on the axels. There are also power pickups on the front truck. I think you will find the conversion to Battery power pretty simple.

Cliff
 

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Thanks for the info Cliff.

I have converted quite a few Annies over the years.
Just that I have never actually fully documented a battery R/C install.
 

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Annie and RCS are both very nice. You'll like them.
 

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have ordered a Bachmann Annie


Tim,

Lots of Annie onfo here, on George Schreyer's website: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html

I did an ECLSTS seminar once on r/c and battery. The slide show is still online, and includes Tony's wiring diagram, plus my wiring with RCS throttle for the 4-6-0. I put the batteries in the boiler instead of the big chunk of weight, but the tender works also - there's plenty of room. (Big .PDF file)
[url]http://gold.mylargescale.com/petethornton/ECLSTS-seminar/Battery%20&%20Radio%20Control2.pdf [/url]
 

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I simply added a connector to the back of the tender, the type that's on computer fans (and the same type that's on the back of the loco to connect sound and light to tender)
I soldered the wires from that connector to the leads to the tender headlight.
Then I opened the smokebox front and cut two wires from the NMRA/G switch, that way, when in battery I set it to NMRA (or G, don't recall wich) or to run on track power I set it the other way, and disconnect the battery connector.


Simplest thing I ever did, then I have the battery and controller in a trailing car (because the battery I had did not fit in the tender), I used the speed controller from an old battery drill as speed controller, I even double head this way.
 

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Maybe some people missed the statement "I have converted quite a few Annies over the years. "

Not to play favorites, but of all the documented installs I have seen, Tony's are very neat and clean, so if you were considering Tony's equipment, I would say he is offering you an unbeatable deal.

Regards, Greg
 

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Posted By TonyWalsham on 03/04/2009 7:15 AM
Thanks for the info Cliff.

I have converted quite a few Annies over the years.
Just that I have never actually fully documented a battery R/C install.




Your welcome Tony. I must have missed the part about converting them, sorry.
Cliff
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gentlemen,

Thank you all for the enthusiasm and kind words. I have spoken to Tony Walsham today and an EVO BK-2 is winging its way to me as we speak, there is a public holiday here for a stupid horse race on Monday so I expect delivery Tuesday.

A special note of appreciation to Greg Elmassian, time and circumstance were against us but it reminds me that this is such a special community here, thank You.

Finance is now all arranged (i.e. the money is in MY bank) so orders have gone out for track, turnouts, roadbed etc. estimated start date about 3 weeks, estimated completion date about 3 weeks.

I shall post a proposed track plan of the "Bumbunga - Radium Hill Tramway Coy." in the track forum shortly. Honestly that is all that I can fit into that area and still hope to run my Carter Bros. coaches and eventually the MB.

Again,
Thank you all.

Tim
 
G

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seems, that you got enough competent advice.
so a question:
do you have pctures of your homebuilt stuff, that you would be willing to share?
for those in similar economic conditions, as you were.

thanks, korm
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
G'day all, took delivery of my Annie today.

D&RGW in yellow ochre sort of colour. Nice! Will probably be repainted in deep maroon to match the rest of my motive power if I have the time.

A couple of questions: the tender bogies seem to have a fair bit of slop as though the tender will rock more than I would allow in a scratch build. The front cut lever seems to be spring loaded in a permanent open position yet I cannot see any spring.

Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Tim
 

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Posted By timlee49 on 03/06/2009 4:03 AM
G'day all, took delivery of my Annie today.

D&RGW in yellow ochre sort of colour. Nice! Will probably be repainted in deep maroon to match the rest of my motive power if I have the time.

A couple of questions: the tender bogies seem to have a fair bit of slop as though the tender will rock more than I would allow in a scratch build. The front cut lever seems to be spring loaded in a permanent open position yet I cannot see any spring.

Advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Tim


the tender bogies seem to have a fair bit of slop as though the tender will rock more than I would allow in a scratch build
All Bachmann tenders are like this. They ride smooth and steady, I think you will be pleased with it.

The front cut lever seems to be spring loaded in a permanent open position yet I cannot see any spring.
That lever is just for looks, it doese not function. If you want it to work, you will have to replace it.

Cliff
 

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the tender bogies seem to have a fair bit of slop


Tim,

The bogies ride on a couple of rounded 'plates' moulded into the underside, about 1" out at the sides from the pivot. The top of the bogie bolster rests on them, providing a stable ride on normal track. Nothing to worry about.

The engione-tender coupling is quite wide - it's easy to re-mount the tender loop so they are closer. On mine there is just enough loop visible to get the loco hook through - but then I normally run on 9' radius curves!
 
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