[EFP&CO]

Hello!
Just entered this forum, found a link in my norwegian forum: mjf.no
Interesting to read from the topics in this forum!
My project is The Nordag Railway, "Nordagbanen" Build under the 2. WW. by The German Nordag plant, to supply their Alumina production with Bauxitt from EFP&Co Ltd, an British-Canadian Carbide-Manganese Furnace Plant in Sauda; 2.4 km 900mm Narrow-Railway all along the Fjord.
My first choice to build, is a typically Western-Norway house close to the Line.
My scale is 1:50/ 0m30
Oddvar
OK, at job I found some white Plastic" Corrogated" sheets, used to cover new steel plates.I try to use them as Wall-Siding, as I have not found any that matches the original.

Someone else having used this?
Oddvar

 

[Torby]

Sounds interesting.

Most of the stuff you'll see here is bigger scales like 1:32 through 1:19.

Scrap material? Of course! Our favorite source.

 

[EFP&CO]

Thanks Torby!
So I`m too small? OK , my first thought was to build in G, and I even have a nice Bachmann Set of Annie, just have a look:

The reason why I scaled down to 0m30 was the Rainy Weather in Western Coast of Norway,

So I plan to build in Sections of Styrofoam.
The House : http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Ragnvhus.jpg Picture taken short time after WW2. You can still see the Rails.
The Model project: http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Mandius%20Aarebrots%20hus/P1280893.jpg
Oddvar=0man

 

[altterrain]

Yes, Coroplast is used quite a bit by some. Yogi Wallace has a web page dedicated to it - http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/plastic/plastic.htm

-Brian

 

[Guest]

EFP&CO,
neither you (i suppose) nor your chosen scale are too small.
the only disadvantage you will have with that scale will be few acessoiries and figures for your scale and few experienced people, that might give you hints.
if you would choose 1:32 or 1:36 (1:35??) - the military scale - it might be easier.

korm

 

[EFP&CO]

Thank You Brian! You gave me the answerI have asked for in my norwegian forum for months, within few hours!! I have enjoyed The Bellaire link! Much to learn !
- Oddvar

 

[EFP&CO]

Thanks korm!
The 1.35 scale will be a little to exspensive, and the Sections to large I think.
I`ve chosen the scale 1:50 because I have to build an indoor railway, and the Fleischman Magic Train Stainz is close to the original 0-4-0 German Budich PS 150. http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Magic%20Train%20Budich/P1270061.jpg http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/P1270060.jpg
- Oddvar
Excuse my language problems! Learning by doing

 

[Richard Weatherby]

1/50 is close to our "O" scale 1:48. There is much available at that scale. I think you are off to a good start.

 

[EFP&CO]

Terribely nice pictures Richard

!The Snow and the lights from the buildings looks great! Suppose this is a G-scale? Tonight we got just "that white carpet" in our garden, but there is no railway out there!
In Europe they call the 1:50 the Architect Scale, and Preiser have some of this people, unpainted.
Yes I want to use your "O" scale, its very close.

 

[Les]

Posted By Torby on 11/16/2008 6:28 AM
Sounds interesting.

Most of the stuff you'll see here is bigger scales like 1:32 through 1:19.

Scrap material? Of course! Our favorite source.


Torby:

Um, isn't 1:20 like um, bigger than 1:19?

(grin)

Scrap material is my preferred source!

Les

 

[Les]

EFP&CO.


Please don't let your english bother you. After all, it is far better than my Norwegian! And, Welcome!

Les

 

[EFP&CO]

Thanks for wlecoming Les!

It´s the "Way You look" we say in Norway, 1:50 looks real big now

!!
You´re all like big family! I really feel at home here, even with my 0n30 scale, and I´m sure Fowler feels welcome to.
He´s my hard-working good friend, he sent picts of his scratchbuildt 1:10 dieselloco, and he´s a really G-scaler! Look after his posts!
G-scale is´nt popular in Norway, in fact most of the used G-trains sold at net goes to our little town! Strange, we got more rain than the rest of the country, and a long cold winter!
I think it´s because of that Fowler guy!

OK, I´ll post more at myLargescale using my scoolenglish

oddvar

 

[Richard Weatherby]

oddvar;

The rusty old buildings you see in my photos are made from scrap material. They are made from beverage cans cranked through a Fiskar paper crimper. They are then glued on to a wood box made of plywood. Plastic windows are the only purchased items. Lighting is from Christmas lights.

 

[Torby]

Um, isn't 1:20 like um, bigger than 1:19? (grin)




Since the 20 and 19 are both in the denominator, 1:20 is smaller than 1:19.

And 5 out of 4 people don't understand fractions.

 

[Les]

I understand fractions perfectly. It's SCALE that wrecks my brain!~!

For some reason, my brain just won't accept scale computations. I'm very fortunate to have guys like Allterrain and a couple of others to guide me along. Also, I suffer from CRS.

Les

 

[Les]

Oddvar,

I chose G gauge (1:20 scale) because it's big and I can see to build it easier. On my layout I will also have 0n3 and Sn18. I've always wanted a dual-gauge track, and the Gurus tell me 45mm and 0 gauge work out nicely. The Sn18 will be a mine gauge only, in one location.

Also, on building with scrap, my rails will be wood capped with flattened copper wire, to simulate the 'strap-iron' tracks used in this country before the Civil War. (1860). The wire is 12 gauge flattened to .015". I have lots of short pieces of copper wire lying around. The wood rails I don't know yet, I've got to find out which one bends best.

Your school english is good enough. Heh, better'n mine.

There are many very nice people on this board.

Les

 

[EFP&CO]

Hi Richard!
Do you model corugated steelplates useing the aluminium( sorry norwegian) from the cans? I have never heard about The Fiskar tool. Is it a expensive machine or a handtool?
I just love this old rusty steelroofs

. Though I have to follow the pictures I get from the line, most haveing stone shingles and pans? of brick material. But some few sheds had corr. steel.

Oddvar

 

[EFP&CO]

Les:
I understand your choice, I would have done the same if we had weather for outdoor layout

. In front of my house there is a steep hillside which could be perfect to this purpose.
I´m sure my G-friends would appreciate this.
Well, 0n30 is a perfect scratchbuiling scale, The sections can be transported, And I can do most of the doings in our home.

When I throw away my minus glasses I look the small details perfectly

Heh

Your rail-construction sounds a bit complicated? Are you going to glue the flattened copperstring at the top of a wooden strip? Will be interresting to see!

I use scrap copperwires to solder trees: http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj205/efpco/Nordag-banen/Mandius%20Aarebrots%20hus/P1290056.jpg

Oddvar

 

[SteveC]

Oddvar

Here ya' go

http://www.michaels.com/online/product/DisplayEnlargedImage.jsp?imageName=sb0505.jpg

 

[Les]

Oddvar,

Oops, I failed to mention that my layout is indoors, it will be approximately 22x12 feet. I haven't begun building yet because I am repairing flood damage to wife's business and our house from last year.

My main interest is in scrachbuilding. My layout will be point to point (PP) and will consist of 'blocks' that are wired to be operated independently of each other.

The track is not so hard: I am going to experiment with a plywood called luan, which is used under flooring. That's why it is so cheap. It is 1/4" thick nominally, but runs both wider and thinner. I can cut it on my bandsaw and flex the narrow strips to see how tight a radius I can turn. Then I take the copper wire and run it through my slip roll to mash it flat. Takes about half a dozen passes. Then I think I will both nail and glue it to the wooden strips. Of course I will weather the wood first. Getting it wet might help it bend tighter. I intend to build my own switches, a type of switch called a 'stub switch'. It is simpler than the normal turnout (switch) used in brass rail.

I have only to run electric wires to my workshop (part of the laundry room) and hang an overhead light, and my 'model shop' will be ready and I can finally start. Then I will post pictures.

Les