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Building a ceramic burner

6484 Views 129 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  RioGrandeFan
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I have been having issues with the ceramic burner supplied with my C-18 locomotive. I haven't reached out to the manufacturer yet. I could be simply experiencing a defective burner that doesn't perform like the rest that were produced. I don't want to make any negative remarks towards the manufacturer for something that could be an anomaly.
Besides steam production, there are many great comments I, and other steamers, make about this engine. Very smooth, self starting, perfectly timed out of the box. Excellent boiler insulation in the design. Just a wonderful engine if I get a good fire. The manual even specifically says a strong fire is needed (from the supplied burner.)

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Since my primary running season is outdoors in Wisconsin winters, I find it obvious that I will require a more capable than stock burner. And because I simply want to build something, I haven't tried before, I am starting this.

The existing burner has a surface area of 2.1 square inches, without modifications to the the rest of the engine I can increase the burner to 3 square inches. A 43% increase in burner surface area. This will also help seal off the bottom of the firebox as I'm told is necessary for a ceramic burner.

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I will be switching to the "hard" ceramic material in this burner.

I am hoping that Bill will weigh in with his insights on ceramic burners.

My design calls for 1 inch wide by 3 inches long and 0.93 inches tall. I will be increasing the length of the jet tube to resemble Bill's design in this post.
This post of Bill's build thread. Is the best I found with details of the burner design. His Blue Comet article in Steam in the Garden also has some details on burner design.

If there are other informative posts for ceramic burner design I would greatly appreciate them.
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How are your mods comparing to the stock design? Have you tried adding a collar to the stock burner for air adjustment?
I think you will always need warm water in your tender running in suck cold conditions. Have you tried your mods on blended gas? The little bit of propane should help with the pressure in cold conditions and with this gas you might get away without warm water in the tender. I live in California where it’s rarely in the low 40s so I can’t run test in your conditions, I did run my k-28 the other day with blended gas and no water in the tender with zero issues for pressure but it was probably 55 degrees outside.
These need to be converted to coal and all your issues will be gone. To bad they didn't design this one like the c-25.
Is the brick arch the shield above the burner in the fire box? What is the purpose of this piece?
Either way good to see you making progress.
How are your mods comparing to the stock design? Have you tried adding a collar to the stock burner for air adjustment?
I think you will always need warm water in your tender running in suck cold conditions. Have you tried your mods on blended gas? The little bit of propane should help with the pressure in cold conditions and with this gas you might get away without warm water in the tender. I live in California where it’s rarely in the low 40s so I can’t run test in your conditions, I did run my k-28 the other day with blended gas and no water in the tender with zero issues for pressure but it was probably 55 degrees outside.
These need to be converted to coal and all your issues will be gone. To bad they didn't design this one like the c-25.
Is the brick arch the shield above the burner in the fire box? What is the purpose of this piece?
Either way good to see you making progress.
So after installing in two C-18 engines, and running one at the Botanical indoor gardens, and the other two nights prior in near freezing temps. This is what I have found.

To run the C-18 on butane, you MUST. I repeat, you MUST take out that flame baffle/ brick arch. If your engine runs well now in your opinion, raise your standards. It will run excellent without the arch.

Next, the modifications to the burner written up by Bill I will call a necessary safety improvement. It eliminates the need for water any warmer than room temperature in the tender. It allowed me to make steam and just put along light engine with no/or cold water with air temps as low as 33F. By doing that modification you can leave the tender cooler, keeping gas pressures lower and safer. It also negates the need for extra equipment in the form of a kettle or other water heater. Keep in mind this performance was with straight butane. Lower pressure yet than a blend.

So first, remove the shield to improve performance.
Modify the burner to improve safety margins around pressurized fuel tanks.

Notes I have found pertaining to the modified burner.
These are burners I've worked on. Bill may be able produce more consistent results.
The same burner will perform differently in different engines.
My burners require a little air adjustment collar to perfect the mixture once installed.

I ran my engine in the above video and had the mixture set right, once I moved the burner into a different engine, I had to tweak the mixture.
I made a second burner for my engine, it requires a different collar setting to burn the same on the bench or in the engine. I imagine if I moved the burner to another engine it would need tuning again.

Each burner and engine combination will need fine tuning.

As far as a collar on a stock burner, that will be compounding the problem of an already rich mixture.

Tyler
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Tyler seems to have his engines running as well as possible with the drafted system and small ceramic burners.
A little of my history on air hole collars.
I first started using them on my poker burner engines to quiet the howling. I actually set them up with a handle which could adjust the position while the engine was running. I found that the collars worked best about half covered preventing the howling but inhibited the steam production. After things warmed up, I was able to slid them back without the howling and better poker burn and steam production
Back in the olden days, carburetors needed to be designed for the correct air/fuel mixture (I think it was 27-1). Now we have fuel injection where we always want more air so the mixture is not an issue. On our turbocharged diesel engines, the power is increased just by increasing the fuel volume with no concern for the air as there is always enough air and never too much. I feel our gas fired burners are the same here, In other words, unless you are restricting the air because of howling, you are limiting steam production. It is hard to determine if adjustments to the collar are working from boiler to boiler or even from run to run. I have tested ceramic burners with collars in the past and just to make sure, I did it again yesterday and they only decrease the burn, On my burners I have four 7/32" holes which is the largest I can get in. Like I said you can't have too much air.

Just my two cents
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What is the purpose of the flame baffle that comes with the locomotive?
The flame baffle is a carry over from the Alcohol fired P-8 which uses the same boiler. It is needed for alcohol firing in a manner I have no experience with yet. But is a massive heat shield in a radiant Gas loco.

Bill,
I have found that the air collar is needed to change where the burn is to control the heat of the ceramic and prevent the fire from popping under the ceramic plate. If a specific installation doesn't need it because the gas is distributed evenly, great. But my inexperience at getting the gas deflector perfect for an even burn on every burner leads to a hot spot that ignites the fuel under the ceramic. And it is minute. Moving the collar which only affects 3 holes a few thousandths is all it takes.
The flame baffle is a carry over from the Alcohol fired P-8 which uses the same boiler. It is needed for alcohol firing in a manner I have no experience with yet. But is a massive heat shield in a radiant Gas loco.
Interesting. I will have to give mine a try without the baffle.
Thanks.
On the collar, It does the same thing as turning the gas down. I don't think it is necessary on the stock size burner but your scratch built burner may have been so efficient, it needed a choke.
Hopefully the good ceramic material will be available soon as this is never an issue with that ceramic
Talked to Cliff, they're looking at applying Bill's modifications to all future C-18s coming through production and omitting the flame baffle on butane engines. Not confirmed, but at least they're talking about the improvement.

Of the 50-60 engines out so far, he said only 5 people have call him about poor steaming. I've fixed 2 of them. They won't be issuing a recall, but if you call Cliff about it he may be able to arrange something. Either a "repair" by sending in the whole engine, or a burner exchange. If you feel handy, you can do the modifications yourself.
Interesting. I will have to give mine a try without the baffle.
Thanks.
Have you tried the engine without the baffle?
I'm curious to see if someone with a previously satisfactory engine sees any improvement.

Just to rule out the possibility of variation in boilers being the root cause.

Tyler
Tyler,
I have not had the chance yet. Hopefully soon.
I’ve been working on installing a new sight glass with a different blowdown valve and adding RC
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