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Howard,

When soldering stainless steel to brass, use higher temperature black flux. Also, after cleaning and just before soldering, go ahead and dip the stainless in your sulphuric acid pickling bath (and rinse off with water). The pickling acid dip will cause a little copper to plate out which will help the solder wet and flow. High cadmium silver solder spreads and wets better than non-cadmium solder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Posted By Ed Hume on 09/22/2008 9:09 PM
Howard,
When soldering stainless steel to brass, use higher temperature black flux. Also, after cleaning and just before soldering, go ahead and dip the stainless in your sulphuric acid pickling bath (and rinse off with water). The pickling acid dip will cause a little copper to plate out which will help the solder wet and flow. High cadmium silver solder spreads and wets better than non-cadmium solder.



Ed, thank you for the inputs on soldering stainless. I’ve never prepared surfaces for soldering beyond a thorough cleaning and fluxing. This really helps.

I found an eBay source for Hi-temp Black Flux this morning.

Ed, here’s what I’ve been reading about pickling solutions:
5% or 10% sulphuric acid to water is a suggested pickle formula. What formula do you suggest?.

I’m wondering if I can find Sulphuric acid at an Automotive Store, since it’s battery acid?

As an alternative...Ed, have you used either of these products?
Sparex #1 is a commercial product that has Sodium Bisulphate as its main ingredient. If I have read correctly, Sodium Bisulphate is sulfuric acid that is half-neutralized so it is safer to use and less aggressive. The half neutralizing also buffers it so it is less quick to deteriorate with use.

PhPlus, the swimming pool product also has the same active ingredient as Sparex #1

Again, thanks for your valuable inputs.
 

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Howard,

Sulphuric acid is more plentiful than you might guess. In the past I have bought a small bottle from Sears Automotive. They don't want to sell it you directly - you need to tell them something like you have a motorcycle battery that needs topping. If you find battery acid, it is usually around 20% so, "do what you ought'a, add acid to watawh - cut it in half. You may also find concentrated sulphuric acid at your local Ace hardware being sold for drain cleaner - I got a gallon that way. Look for the bottles that come in an extra poly bag with those jolly roger labels. Once you have it, you can keep it in a plastic tub or plastic container - the ones that seal are nice - I saw some perfect ones at Office Depot.

I have not used Sparex, but yes it should work fine, but a little slower, and a little more expensive, and yes, safer. My comments about copper plating out relate to a used bath. As you clean scale from copper and brass, the solution turns bluish from dissolved copper sulphate. If steel or iron is put in the bath, copper will plate out on the steel. The rate of plating for stainless steel is so much slower, that this is a useful test for stainless vs ordinary steel. With stainless, even though you may not see it, copper is getting deposited, and this is the reason the second attempt for soldering always works well - the pickling and plating really prepare the surface. Pickling the joint for 4-8 minutes is typical. Less if it starts out hot, but don't put it in the bath until it will not cause boiling. Before I had an IR thermometer, I would touch the metal with a wet toothpick to see if it was above boiling.

A pickling bath cleans the black cupric oxide (scale), but not the reddish cuprous oxide that forms at lower temperatures. However, scrubbing lightly with a brass brush under running water will easily remove the cuprous oxide. You can mix baths that have hydrogen peroxide which will oxidize and remove the cuprous oxide, but I do not recommend the casual user go down that path.

I do not recommend you use any form of hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid). It will pickle the joint, but having chlorides around stainless or your shop is not a good thing.

Needless to say, wear eye covering. I get away with using tongs instead of wearing gloves. Have some means of rinsing off in a hurry if you have an accident. Also, have some baking soda handy to neutralize and clean up any spills.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I ran a ceramic burner test today (2 1/8” diameter burner with a #10 jet from Forrest Classics) and can’t get that classic, short, uniform blue tipped flame across the entire ceramic surface, like I have seen with other ceramic burners. I adjusted the placement of the jet in its holder but get nothing but a lazy, yellow flame no matter how much air is being introduced around the jet. With the gas valve turned way down I can get close, where the ceramic disk starts to glow.
To me, the jet size seems way too large, but that’s what came with the burner. I see that Forrest Classics also has #5, 8 & 16 sized jets to fit my jet holder. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Posted By David BaileyK27 on 09/28/2008 1:31 AM
I used No 6 jets in the kits I supplied, does the mixing tube go right acros the burner base? it needs to to mix the gas and air and deflect it round the ceramic block.
David Bailey http://www.djbengineering.co.uk/



David, thanks for the input. I’m not sure I understand significance of the “burner tube going across the base” statement.

In the BIX001 burner I have, the jet holder/mixing tube attaches to the side of the burner housing, it does not extend beyond the side.
Here’s the burner drawing:







Just inside the side of the burner housing, where the mixing tube is attached, there is a piece of square mesh with about .0625” openings. I would guess that the mesh is the diverter in this ceramic burner.
Last night I was able to get a nicely glowing ceramic with the classic little round blue flames coming through the ceramic’s holes by moving the face of the jet back so that its face was right at the 2 side air hole openings, giving the max amount of air to the mixing tube. Shown below in a fuzzy picture:







I still had some flame reaching 1½” above the ceramic surface, peaking at the center point. But with the design of this boiler, the flame will go directly into the flue. Here's a short video:


Last night I ordered a #5 jet and will rerun this test when I get it.
 

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In our burners the mixzing tube goes right across the tray to within 1/8" of the other face, this "swirls" the gas around and helps to distribute it evenly under the ceramic, the boiler base is then about 1/4" above the burner so that the flame plays on the base as well as going up the flue.
Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Posted By maculsay on 09/15/2008 1:53 PM
I will be making the locomotive self-sufficient by adding an on board gas tank placed in the fake water bunker. Since I will eventually finish the trailing car, the source for fuel will be controlled by a set of valves (manifold) that will direct the fuel to the boiler’s burner from either the trailing car or the on-board gas tank. This requires the design and building of 2 on/off gas valves, a small manifold and the moving of Kevin O’Connor’s butane gas control valve from the trailing car to the locomotive itself.
Secondly, a valve controlled steam takeoff will be added to the boiler for the possible heating of the water surrounding either of the gas canisters and the steam valves manifold, if needed.

Here’s my working drawing of the gas valves manifold:



One of the tools I need for making the valves mentioned above is a knurling tool for my Sherline lathe. Instead of $pending $$ to buy one, I set out to find some plans to make the tool from scratch. I decided on a plan by Tracy Adkins that I found over on one of the SherlineCNC Yahoo Groups, (see file "A Better Knurling Tool"). By the way to see the file, you have to be a member of the group.

Having finished the tool with some updates of my own (see my file "Knurling Tool Updated"), I’m posting only the picture of the finished tool here in this message thread. If anyone is interested in my posting the details and pictures in our “Tools” forum, just let me know.

By the way, the knurled knob used on the tool was made by the tool.
 
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