[david bunn]

Hi Guys
At long last my attempt at a 1:20 model based on DVRR No5 is done, well almost as I need to sort out the reverse mode.
This has been a long build and many thanks to other members who have given advise.
The model is based on pics from the web of DVRR No5 and converted into drawings, dimensions have been guessed at but the finished car is something like!
The body is styrene with wood for the floor,window frames and reinforcement,rivets are styrene rod and the roof is covered in pantie hose which gives a good representation of canvas when painted.
Trucks are scratched from styrene with the springs built up leaf by leaf, actually quite quick to do and strong when fully set.The power truck has a Mashima motor with an axle hung gearbox.Control is by a radio unit from a toy truck which also gives basic motor sound, horn and light control, batteries are housed under the floor.Paint is Tamiya acrylic which goes onto styrene very well as long as it has an undercoat.
Here are the pics,I hope!!!
Regards
Bunny

 

[Dean Whipple]

Very nice...

 

[East Broad Top]

Boy, that done did turn out reeaal good! Can't wait to see pics of it out earning its keep.

Later,

K

 

[Dave Ottney]

Man that's really cool. I'd be interested in seeing how you connect the truck to the frame and any other power details. Great job on the trucks.
Dave

 

[Stan Cedarleaf]

Very nicely done, David.  I like the use of a "toy truck" R/C and sound.  It's an inexpensive way to do R/C and fun to play around with. 

 

[Jerry Barnes]

Nice work indeed. Was the motor drive from a R/C truck also? Be interesting to see/hear how you rigged up the R/C. Jerry

 

[Ted_Roy]

Great job and execution! We need a Youtube video of it out on the rails to get the full effect!

Ted.

 

[david bunn]

Hi Guys
Trucks are connected to the body by enclosing the head end of a large bolt in the frame of the trucks and secured inside with an equaly large locking nut,the body is cushioned by largish rubber washers which prevent rocking and also provide the means of getting the height to look right.
The control pcb is taken directly from the toy truck and wired the same,the motor is a Mashima with home made gearbox as the toy truck unit although neat and compact was too wide to fit between the frames.
Regards
Bunny

 

[Scott]

Fantastic effort! Am planning to do the same but in South Australian Railways Colour scheme.

 

[rangerjoel]

Incredible workmanship! Your truck frames are works of art and the model is just fantastic!
Joel

 

[Jim Francis]

David, that is one cool model!

Have you had a chance to visit the real thing? 

It is stored at the Laws Railraod Museum near Bishop, California.

Do you have any other construction pics you can share?

Nice work,

Jim

 

[Terl]

Well done execuiton of a unique model. I have made a note about you're using truck R/C for control and sound.

Terl

 

[GeorgeMMR]

David,
Great work! The DVRR # 5 has always been a favorite of mine since I climbed around the prototype in 1978. I built a model in 1:20.3 and the article was in the 1999 July?August "Narrow Gauge and Shortline Gazett." However, I must confess I did not do as didicated a job as you have done on the trucks, but rather added the distinctive Brill sideframes to a pair of Aristo diesel trucks. The thinking is that if ever I need parts, etc, then I can just substitute another truck, and swap over the sieframes.
I am delighted that someone else is excited enough about this narrow gauge "trolley" that they have built a model. Best of luck, and thanks for showing us your work.
George

 

[david bunn]

Jim
I would love to visit Laws as I have also made a 1:20 version of N09 using a  Big Hauler mechanism,the big problem is the distance, mainly the Atlantic Ocean!
There may be some other build photos in my files but there were a few false starts so will have to edit those!
regards
David

 

[timlee49]

Hey David!

Looks really good. Nice construction and finish.

For more Brill rail cars  see this link for the S.A.R. ( South Australian Railways) http://www.natrailmuseum.org.au/common/nrm_a03_m03_4.html

There are more images in other pages, have a look around!

On drive trucks or just plain trucks, I make the side frames and bolster plates as separate units bolted together rather than solid glued units so that if I have made an error somewhere, then I can make adjustments lengthening holes before setting the finals. It also eases the change of wheels. 

I am developing a method based on this for English type "W" irons as well.

I shall put up my next part of hand building the Carter Bros passenger trucks for the C&SV combine that shows my methods soon.

Thanks Tim