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I just bought a Bridgewerks™ Magnum 25 TDR and I must say... compared to every other Power supply/controller/transformer I have ever used, this thing is solid, extremely tough, and unmistakable. Every company uses hype as a way of moving their product and most of us have become desensitized to it, including me. I have a friend named Dr. Jack and Rayman 4449 (who most of you know from MLS) who have been helping me along in the outdoor railroad arena. A BIG thank you to both of them for giving me the advice they wished they had had starting out. They both spoke very highly of Bridgewerks™ power supplies and recommended them as the best thing I could really get for what I wanted to run. They recommended them as I am just starting out as a G-scale participant, but am aiming very high with USA Trains™s' locomotives including their incredible Big Boy, GP9, GP38-2, SD40-2, SD70MAC, and GG-1 locomotives. I am planning on using MTH's DCS as my choice for digital control as the features are pretty undeniable... As far as power for such a prestigious line of locomotives, I already knew I needed something that was very powerful, but I wanted the quality that could be depended upon, and from running my locomotives on my new Bridgewerks™ 25 TDR.... Bridgewerks™ has delivered.
David Sauerwald, I would like to take this time to personally thank you for offering such a fine product to G Scale railroading. I am so proud to own one of your controllers! This power supply ran my locomotives without breaking a sweat and they have operated more smoothly than I have ever seen with any other power supply that they have been run with. Bridgewerks™ is a product that I can say truly lives up to the hype. The warranty, the solid structure, the features, the smooth locomotive running quality... What doesn't this thing have??? There is a "Momentum" switch on the controller to bring your locomotive up to a medium speed at a slow and realistic pace. I enjoyed playing with that feature, very DCC/DCS-like without any Digital Control. Touch this controller just to see just how well it is made, you won't be disappointed guys, I promise! The "Speed Governor" is also a unique touch. basically it is a metal plate that you screw into place to stop your throttle where it gives the maximum amount of Volts and Amps that you want to give. Not to mention the 4 means of circuit protection should lightning try to conquer your Bridgewerks™ controller or your layout. And the remote throttle capabillity for those of you who don't want to mess with DCC or DCS.

Yes, they are a little more expensive then what you may want to pay up front, but they are well worth it in the long run as I have seen evidence of with my friend Dr. Jack, who has had 4 different Bridgewerks™ power supplies for many years and they are just as reliable as the day Jack pulled them out of the box. If any of you have any questions about it, please ask, I have enjoyed playing with it! Thank you Bridgewerks™ and David Sauerwald, please keep up the good work!


-Will Weller II
 

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Hey Will, really glad you like it. :) They really do have great build quality and the fact the digital volt and amp meters are built right in is a plus in my book.

One thing I'm not sure I (or anyone else may) may have mentioned yet, use FUSES! I bought a large quantity of 3, 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 amp blade fuses and have a pair of fuse holders wired in parallel from the positive terminal of the power supply. This allows me to swap out higher or lower amp fuses on the fly without having to cut power to the track. I try to run with a fuse that's as close to the max amp draw of what's currently running. (example, if you are pulling ~3amps, probably drop in a 5amp fuse). If you need to change to go higher for instance, drop a 10 amp in the second holder, then pull the 5amp from the first.

The reason for the fuses is, in a short condition, that power supply can short up to 25amps of power before the built in circuit breaker would trip and 25amps is a TON of power to pump through the short and you risk damaging something. You control the voltage output (i.e. speed/light brightness) but the power supply essentially automatically feeds whatever amperage the items on the track need and can draw. In a short condition it will immediately peak to 25amps. Also note the circuit breakers (regardless of how close to the circuit breaker max you are running) are not as safe as a quick blow fuse. So don't just rely on circuit breakers, use fuses. To save money I bought tons of fuses from Harbor Freight when they last went on sale. (I now have enough to last me a lifetime)

Enjoy!


Raymond
 

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Posted By Rayman4449 on 11/22/2008 8:22 PM
Hey Will, really glad you like it. :)" src="http://www.mylargescale.com/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/smile.gif" align="absMiddle" border="0" /> They really do have great build quality and the fact the digital volt and amp meters are built right in is a plus in my book.

One thing I'm not sure I (or anyone else may) may have mentioned yet, use FUSES! I bought a large quantity of 3, 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 amp blade fuses and have a pair of fuse holders wired in parallel from the positive terminal of the power supply. This allows me to swap out higher or lower amp fuses on the fly without having to cut power to the track. I try to run with a fuse that's as close to the max amp draw of what's currently running. (example, if you are pulling ~3amps, probably drop in a 5amp fuse). If you need to change to go higher for instance, drop a 10 amp in the second holder, then pull the 5amp from the first.

The reason for the fuses is, in a short condition, that power supply can short up to 25amps of power before the built in circuit breaker would trip and 25amps is a TON of power to pump through the short and you risk damaging something. You control the voltage output (i.e. speed/light brightness) but the power supply essentially automatically feeds whatever amperage the items on the track need and can draw. In a short condition it will immediately peak to 25amps. Also note the circuit breakers (regardless of how close to the circuit breaker max you are running) are not as safe as a quick blow fuse. So don't just rely on circuit breakers, use fuses. To save money I bought tons of fuses from Harbor Freight when they last went on sale. (I now have enough to last me a lifetime)

Enjoy!


Raymond





I thought I had enough fuses for my car to last a lifetime, too... until it had that wicked intermittant short in wires that passed through the box frame member!
 
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Will,
A a Bridgewerks™ Magnum 25 TDR is the very best money can buy in my opinion, mine works flawless and can run ANYTHING i throw at it. it great you decide to buy USA trains motive power they are the best,in quality,looks and operation in my opinion,and has been proven here and on other sites time and time again, you wont be disappointed
SS track is the best as well,you can get it from HR trains in florida nice stuff...Ray a great guy and wont stear you wrong he's helped me so many times with the MTH DCS thing i cant begin to tell you. your off to a good trouble free start.....

Nick
 

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618 Posts
Will, I agree with you 100% that the Bridgewerks Mag 25 TDR is a fine product & that David Sauerwald is the best...

Plus it's made in the USA!!
What a concept!
Maybe other manufacturers er I mean importers should do this??

 
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