[Dick Friedman]

I believe my Bridgewerks Magnum 10-S is dead. But it's a strange dead. I get no power to the track via the 24VDC, or the 12VDC terminals. I get no power to the track via the VDC terminals. I get no power to the 12 VAC terminals. Most of the time. Then I get power from the VDC and the AC. The circuit breaker is not tripped.

I'm not ready to throw it away. I'd mail it to Bridgewerks but it weighs so much it'll cost a fortune. I'll check in my club for someone who has worked on them, but I don't have a lot of hope. Many of our members have either this or another Bridgewerks power supply.

I'll probably open it in a day or two to see if something is burned through. Any thoughts on where to look first?

 

[JPCaputo]

I would do a cursory opening if I were you. Look for broken connections. Also bad solder joints, or disconnected terminals.

Also changing the fuses for same rating new one may work in case they have gone bad.

Random turning on is a symptom of a loose connection somewhere.

Also nose around for a burnt smell.

If you have a laser thermometer, check the temps of components. They shouldn't be over about 150f when fully loaded down.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I don't know the circuitry, but is the AC stable all the time?

Interesting about the 12vdc coming and going... that is weird.

Greg

 

[Dick Friedman]

Thanks, Greg. It IS a conundrum. I'll check it out tomorrow. Anybody have a schematic? Don't be shy.

 

[Dan Pierce]

Check all wire crimps. one may have not been fully crimped and contact is intermittent.

 

[chuck n]

Call Bridgewerks. I think they have a life time warrenty. If you still have the original box use it to return it. If you use a different box, there will be a charge for the return,correct, box. At least that has been my experience.

No charges for repairs.

Chuck

 

[Dennis Cherry]

AC Cords do internally break. Try a new AC cord.

 

[Dick Friedman]

Bridgeworks 10S

I heard from Mark at BW this morning. He offered to help via internet if I give him more info, so I'll trouble shoot the thing in the next day or so. He also said has no schematic for the 10S, but he could fix it if I sent it to him with $90. I'm so glad BW is back on the West Coast! Last time they worked on it, I sent it to the East Coast, and it was more for shipping than repair (it was under warranty).

I'm beginning to suspect that it is more than one problem. I hooked another power supply to the track, but no voltage came out at trackside.

 

[Cataptrra]

I heard from Mark at BW this morning. He offered to help via internet if I give him more info, so I'll trouble shoot the thing in the next day or so. He also said has no schematic for the 10S, but he could fix it if I sent it to him with $90. I'm so glad BW is back on the West Coast! Last time they worked on it, I sent it to the East Coast, and it was more for shipping than repair (it was under warranty).

I'm beginning to suspect that it is more than one problem. I hooked another power supply to the track, but no voltage came out at trackside.

If you're not getting any voltage to the tracks with different power supplies that you know are good, then one or both of your wires going to the track have a break somewhere in them.

Best thing to do is make a simple continuity tester, an L.E.D. or low voltage 1/2-3 VDC Incandescent bulb will work or an old battery operated {DC} buzzer. Or if you happen to own a multimeter with a built in buzzer {continuity check} you could use that.

You need to verify you don't have bad, corroded or broken wires going to the track. One probe goes to the wire that would normally be in the power supply/throttle, the other probe goes to the track, test each rail, if you don't get a buzz or light indication, then try the other rail, still nothing, that wire has a break in it somewhere. Do the same test for the other wire, no indication would also mean that wire is bad, so both would need replacing.

However, if you do get a valid signal that the wire is getting power, go along and flex the wire from one end to the other while the indicator is showing its functional, sometimes a wire when it conducts current and has an intermittent break will separate under a load, because heat expands, it pushes the area where the break in the wire is located apart, so if you were getting a good indication, and you go along the wire and the indicator goes off or out, chances are the wire has a small break, you can either cut and splice it back to together or replace the wire all together. It's tedious and time consuming, especially if the wire is a long run, but it's the only way to be 100% sure that power is getting down those wires to the rails at all times.

Good Luck.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

So there is no lifetime warranty?

Boy they need to update their site, they say they are in NC, but the contact us is in Washington state. Did the company get sold recently?

Greg

 

[rdamurphy]

In troubleshooting, you need to isolate one problem at a time. Use a multimeter or a simple test light after disconnecting the power supply from anything else to check your outputs. If it's working, then the problem must be further down the line. (pun intended!). Then check your wiring to the track, and finally, the track itself. I've had bizarre shorts happen just because something conductive found it's way between the closure rails near a turnout frog.

If the problem exists with two separate power supplies, most likely it's something else...

Robert

 

[Tomahawk & Western RR]

check your wires leading to the track arent toching eachother where they connect into the transformer. also make sure they are getting a good connection to the rails, and there is nothing metal laying across the rails.

THEN.. i would open the thing up. (it is sometime easy to look over the obvious ones, i do that ALOT!)

 

[noelw]

Richard.. I've work on a few of them and you are close by so still need help give me a call.. " You may still have a warranty on it." We have the same one (10S) on our work bench. Ours was used and we had to repair it. I think this make nbr 6 Bridgewerks we work on. They are a nice unit, but only has 10 amps out. Noel

 

[armorsmith]

Greg, etal,

In a very recent conversation with Mark at Bridgewerks, I can confirm that they have relocated to NC. The original owner (Mark's dad) was planning to close Bridgwerks a few years back (circa 2010), but Mark picked it up. I cannot speak for Mark, but I believe I got the vibe from him that he was carrying on his dad's traditions.

My recommendation would be to call Bridgewerks and talk to them. Mark is a very friendly fellow and will speak very frankly. Make your decision after you speak with him. He may also be able to better diagnose whether it is repairable.

Bob C.

 

[Treeman]

They relocated from NC, to the North West.

 

[armorsmith]

Mike, Thank you for the correction. It was a fast and furious call with Mike while he was driving.

 

[Dick Friedman]

10S sseems OK

The latest on my 10S. It seems to be OK. I've tested all the outputs, and they all put out at least the advertised power. Nothing goes through the wires to the track, even though they worked fine about two weeks ago. I've put a new wire in, and it works. At least I've got voltage to the ends of the wire. I'll get a longer wire and see if I can get power to the track.

I guess I'll have to see what happened to the wire. It's like it broke somewher between the power supply and the track. But how often does THAT happen?

The saga continues ....

 

[tmejia]

If it is like my landscape lighting wiring, water gets in and corrodes the wire and lights stop working. I start checking after the last good light. I actually don't find the corrosion unless I start cutting the wire. So I just run a new wire from the last good connection.

Tommy
Rio Gracie

 

[Dick Friedman]

I'll check that out when I return from SoCal. It did seem that my problems began after I rerouted a trip line and added a few drippers. Guess I'll have to dig up the line to find and repair the problem, as most of that line is inside finished walls!