Brick/refractory wicks? Anyone tried this?

Spule 4 · 2008-01-04

I have been reading about this and the mesh stainless steel: http://www.southernsteamtrains.com/misc/firebrickburnemod.htm Thanks-

rodblakeman

· #2 · Jan 5, 2008

John Garratt introduced me to these wicks at DH last year. We fitted them to my Aster T3 and Glaskasten . Worked very well. I had difficulty finding a suitable "fire brick" here in the UK but eventually got one from a kiln supplier as John suggests.

It is worth trying, good luck.

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steamlogger

· #3 · Jan 5, 2008

I have them in home built Mamod burner and an Argyle SPC #3 4-4-0. I have been verry happy with them. I did have to rework the American ones last week The bottom was not in the alchol on one wick and the locos uffered from poor fire. It looks to be working good on the workbench. I am off to a steamup today and will report how they worked on the track.

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chooch

· #4 · Jan 5, 2008

Got ceramic wicks in my Aster Mikado. Works fine and added run time.

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Pauli

· #5 · Jan 5, 2008

Personally I am most qurious about the fine steel-mesh wick idea. It seems a lot simpler to make than the fire-brick idea. The advantage of both, to me seems that these wicks will not change their burning characteristics from run to run.

But what type of supplier could have suitable fine steel mesh? I wonder if copper or brass mesh could be used? I seem to have come across such meterials more often.

For my first firing up of my new Aster P8 (BR38), I think I will try the ceramic felt supplied in the kit, but using the traditional "3 oval burner holder", that Aster Europe supplimentary supplied with the kit. But I have been told, that the ceramic felt becomes brittle, and falls apart over time. This user also gave me the adress to Northern Fine Scale, that in his opinion (6 engines & 20 tears of experience) supply the best wick material available - whatever that might be? I'm bound to try this tip also ;-)

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steamtom1

· #6 · Jan 5, 2008

I've been running John Garrett's ceramic wicks in my Aster Schools...

And in my Brandbright Jane...

They both run great!

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HMeinhold

· #7 · Jan 5, 2008

In previous posts I have mentioned good results with steel wool from the hardware store. At least 000 grade should be used. My Climax was at least as lively with these wicks as after the butane conversion. Give it a try!

Regards

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highpressure

· #8 · Jan 5, 2008

John Garratt has been using brick wick's in his loco's for over 5 years. He has made & installed them in probably 50 friends loco's all with great success, culminating in a higher temperature burn and much decreased fuel consumption, resulting in much longer run times.

I have them in the slot type wick holders on my Accucraft GS-4. They are cut to expose .400" above the tubes. It makes for a much cleaner, higher temperature burn. Less "STINK" from the stack and the fuel consumption has decreased about 60%.

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Spule 4

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 5, 2008

Thanks for the replies.

Especially interested in the running of the Mamod/Jane as this is what I am after.

The stainless steel idea is the other one I am considering, had forgot about the steel wool suggestion, all stuff to look at I guess.

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Spule 4

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 5, 2008

Thanks for the replies.

Especially interested in the running of the Mamod/Jane as this is what I am after.

The stainless steel idea is the other one I am considering, had forgot about the steel wool suggestion, all stuff to look at I guess.

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