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I was wondering the other day if anyone has made some air hoses that really attach between cars?  It seems like it would not be that hard but I haven't seen any manufacturers do this so maybe it is harder than I'm thinking or not worth the effort?  For folks that have automated coupling/uncoupling I image this would be difficult and not even desireable.  But when I hook up a train and run it I usually run it for a while.  For close up pics of a train it looks strange for the air hoses not to be connected.

What are your thoughts?
 

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I've heard of folks using small magnets to keep hoses connected. I don't recall if it was in this scale, or one of the ride-on scales. I just ordered a bunch of 1/8" rare-earth magnets for another project, which may be ideal for such an application. The magnets may be stronger than the joints between the hose and brake castings, so you may want to secure them a bit tighter with some fine wire or something.

Later,

K
 

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While magnets are a cool idea they are not necessary because Hartford Products sells brake hose sets that can be connected together in the prototypical way.  I have many of these brake hoses installed on my cars.  It is rather fiddly but they can indeed be connected.  By the way, the glad hands and angle cocks that come with these sets are the best looking castings you will find.  The look way better than the Ozark ones.  Here is a picture of my heavy duty flat car with the hoses installed:



Unfortunately I do not have a better picture right now but if you look closely you will see that the angle cock valve handle is in the closed position.  I modified the castings so the valve handles are movable.  If I want maximum authenticity I will link the hoses between cars move the valves to open and then leave the valve closed on the last car.

Here is the picture of the kit from hartfords site:

As you can see it comes with angle cocks with a short length of "pipe", valve handles, hose clamps, glad hands, mounting brackets and rubber hose.

Regards,

Eric
 

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Eric:  What scale are the Hartford air hoses?  Are they whitemetal castings, like the Ozark version?
 

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Hi Burl,

They are 1:20.3 and yes, they are white metal.

Regards,

Eric
 

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I believe the ones made by Precision Scale connect in a prototypical manner. I had a pair 10+ years ago and they worked fine.

Cheers,
Matt
 

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Here is what I do for MU cables. They aren't as nice as the air hoses shown but I use them to pass power between engines.


 

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Eric,  that is one amazing load on your flat car.  Did you make it?  Scale?  Assume 1/20?  I'd LOVE to get one.  Thanx, Gary
 

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Even if a model of a brake hose is well enough done that the gladhands will join correctly, I should think that such fine detail might wear out fairly quickly.  If you really like the appearance of connected brake hoses, a possibility might be to have sets permanently joined and the car bodies set up so that the shut off valves are friction fitted into the bodies so that the cars can still be disconnected.  For the back of the car (or caboose) at the very end of the train, you could insert the normal valve along with its single piece of hose.  Seems like a lot of work, but it could look quite believable.

Llyn
 

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I tried this and my problem was that the hoses were too stiff to allow the car to articulate against the next car easily enough. In some cases the pressure was just enough to push the car into a derailment on a rough piece of track or a switch. I think the answer is to make up a set of hoses permanently glad-handed together to use for photos. Or, if you run the same cars together on a regular basis, just make up pairs using very flexible material for the hoses to go between those cars.
 

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Sourdoh (et al.)

I agree that using scale-sized gladhand castings (the Hartford ones are the best, BTW) would be tricky, to say the least. But in the case of the hose itself, I'd recommend using black surgical rubber tube, available from most medical supply houses. It's extremely strong and flexible and doesn't need to be painted. I've used it for not only gladhands but for feedwater lines between tenders and locos with great success.
 

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I will have to check out those new Ozark ones  Llyn, as far as wear is concerned It's not really an issue for me because I only connect them on "special occasions"  Most of the time I just "let em' hang"/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/blink.gif  They don't wear when they are connected because they actually sort of lock together.

Gary,  the thresher is a custom built product meant to be a companion to die cast farm tractors such as the Case Millennium steam tractor that Ertl produced some years back.  They are made by a guy in Minnesota.  The scale is 1:16  The thing is, real threshing machines came in all sizes, and this is a model of a small one, so it passes for 1:20 scale.

For a video of the threshing machine being pulled by my 1:20 scale custom live steam tractor have a look at this:



If you want to find out how to get your own threshing machine contact me offline.

Regards,

Eric
 

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I tried to post pictures of the new Ozark patterns using the Add Reply. It calls up the picture but refuses to post anything. Useless supposed feature.

John
 

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I had been wanting to play with this for some time.  I have bought all sort of magnets to experiment with and finally settled on a system.   Jack had told me about the surgical tubing earlier and it is really neat stuff to work with.   I put some brass scraps together and I now have working gladhands.   They cost less than $1 a pair.



After the cars are coupled together, I just nudge one of the hoses towards the other and "snap", they're connected.   To get them apart, I can just move them with a finger, or I can hold one of the cars in place and let the locomotive pull them apart.   Neat stuff.
 

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Bruce,

That's really terrific!

More details on the magnetic gladhands, please. Where did you get them? Do you have to cut and/or shape them? How do you rig them up? Etc.
 

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Jack,
Nothing fancy at all on the glad hands; rather crude compared to the castings available.  /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/doze.gif



I tooks some 3/16" x 1/16" brass strip  that I had and cut them to size, about 1/4" long.   I round the corners, cut a 1/16" notch in them, and drill a 1/8" hole.    I then solder in a piece of 1/16" rod.   This is the part that holds it in the surgical tubing.

The magnet is a 1/8" diameter x 1/16" thick that I got from K & J Magnetics.  It goes in the hole drilled along with a spot of CA glue.

Yep, not quite the detail as the Hartford ones, but I do like the way that they work. :cool:
 
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