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John,
I'm impressed with the work and while you amy seem to need to apologize for the baby step in your posts it shows just how much work something like this can be. For me it shows some of the work I have to look forward to. I'm fortunate (or unfortunate?) that I do not ahve a grade like that to deal with though. Looking good so far!

Chas
 

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Had a friend in grade school, Mark Holy. He said once, "I just don't feel right turning in a book report and having to write Holy Mark."
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
HOLY pretty much stands for "Set apart" I am sure he was that.
You know I had 3 older brothers Matthew, Mark and Luke didn't you?
And I am the 7th son of my Father...hehe
The youngest in the pic is Noah Christian Bible, no pressure on him there! lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
1st tunnel has arrived and is being put in place... With running all types of equipment (new and old) What would make a good retaining wall on the left side of this tunnel entrance? I really would like to dig it out a little and put in Cribbing but...?


This is a shot of the whole thing, it will be shortened somewhat and I am going to look for one of those Sprinkler tub cover things I've heard about, later today? To place in the middle for access to the center of the curve.


any suggestions?
 

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Based upon my experience of fishing derailed trains out of a 14ft long straight tunnel, I would recomend that you shorten up your tunnel as much as possible in favor of an open cut because maintainence will be much easier. I'd recomend that you only use large stones in your retaining wall.

I like seeing the progress you are making.

Terl
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Terl, Why do you make only large rocks suggestion?

I have trimmed the tunnel down to 12 feet and with the big sprinkler box in the middle, I hope will be okay. I guess I will just have to learn the hard way...?
NOW, what do I use to create a flat and stable base within the corrugated culvert? Concrete? Lime? Boards?
 

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By big rocks I means rocks at least as big as the concrete blocks you use on your lower retaining wall. I have found out that over time when I used anything smaller, that they were just too easily pushed around by soil movement, especially for retaining wall purpose.

If you went with two boxes instead of one on your tunnel for access, it would probably make track installation and maintainence much easier. If you have the one box already installed, don't worry about it you can probably get by. I would just use dirt or crusher fines to make the floor of the tunnel, because it is cheap and easy to move around. Hope this helps.

Look forward to seeing your progress.

Terl
 

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Just thought of this idea. Out of wood build a subroad bed on top of the tunnel. Make it one piece or two pieces. Attach the track, then shove the whole thing in from the end. Should conform to the tunnel because you built it on top of the tunnel so it's curveature matches. One suggestion would be to cut a bunch of 1/2" plywood strips about 4" x 18". Now screw two layers together on top of the tunnel with the upper layer of plywood spanning the joint of the layer underneath in a bricklike pattern.

Terl
 

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I recently redid the dirt subroad bed in my tunnels and found a good way to help level the dirt inside. I took a 2x6 board about 4 feet long and shoved it side to side and in and out of the tunnel, from both ends. It acted like a miniture road grader and left the dirt pretty smooth and level. Sorry I took so long to reply to your questions. Hope this helps some.

Terl
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Using the top of the tunnel is a great idea and I did not think of that! I thought of using a garden hoe/board to just level some ag lime mixed with mortar. I also have a little portland cement I can mix in the lime and after leveled... Just let it harden naturally. I have not cut and installed the access box yet and now plan on having 2 installed.
thanks!
 
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