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Here is a simple structure based around a block of wood. The how-to is intended for beginners and the faint of heart that just can't seem to get enough confidence to plunge into any type of scratch building.



I like to have a nice level base upon which to set the structure. The POC is on raised benchwork but a base can be made at ground level or you can use no base at all. I would recommend at least a sort of foundation that can be submerged into the dirt a bit to better "plant" the building instead of merely setting it on top of the ground for a much better look.



The inner structure of the shed is a piece of pressure treated 4x4. the 1/2" pieces raise it to a better height. This probably isn't needed if you model in 1:32 or 1:29. The roof "rafters" are cut from a piece of 2x4 on a miter saw.


The shed door was scratchbuilt from a piece of 1/8" expanded PVC board (available from TAP Plastics) and Evergreen Styrene trim. Hinges and padlock/hasp are from Ozark. You can as easily use a plastic freight door or one salvaged from an old plastic building. The siding is cedar boards 1/8" x 3/8" that I cut myself. Once again you can use a commercial product such as scribed siding, corrugated iron or aluminum, or one of many plastic sidings from Precision Products.



Subroof is two pieces of expanded PVC. The tape is there to hold the roof in place while the glue dries. After drying I nailed it down with 4 18ga. brads to provide extra shear strength.



The ugly masking provides protection for the already painted surfaces while a finish is applied to the roof. Bondo primer was first sprayed on and folowed quickly behind with a textured paint. Color was Chocolate but many colors are suspended in the medium. Be sure and shake the bejeebers out of it,



The finished shed in place on the railroad. The figures are SLM 1:24 for a size comparison. Remember it is supposed to be a small tool shed and normal clearances and ceiling heights don't apply.



Here's a view from the other side...



...and a bit more distant view down the track. Notice how much better a structure looks when planted in the earth instead of just set on top?

I'm not the first to use a block of wood for the basis of a structure. It has been done by others. If a larger building is needed you can substitute a made up box constructed to whatever size you need. Buildings made this way are quite durable and simple to build and you can replicate everything from a brick, stone, stucco, wood to metal depending on finish or siding used. Also additions can be added such as a porch roof or bay window, etc., for a more complicated look.

Use a good glue (I use Welder available at Walmart), good paint such as Krylon (not the Fusion line) and always use a second fastening method to aid the glue whenever possible. I use brads both from a brad gun and brads I nail in by hand. Be sure an predrill a guide hole a slight bit smaller for the brad(s). Don't hestiate to use screws as well where they won't show too much.

This type of structure isn't for the detail hound that puts interiors in them but a very presentable town could be built like this.
 

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Thanks Richard,

For a nice post. As usual your work looks great and the photos are great too. You are really an inspiration to others, who are just starting out.

Regards ,

Joe
 

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Richard,

Just amazing, as usual. Couple of questions. What kind of glue is weller? You use PT for the base as well-or cedar? With larger buildings do you frame with PT and then shieth with what type of wood? Your work is indeed ispirational. I am using your ladder roadbed method ripped from cedar. Only diference is my layout is not on benchwork--I will likely move in the next 3 to 5 years (so says the wife) and I figured I can remove the trains from the raised planter and the new owners will have a nice place for flowers.

On another note: I painted all surfaces of the cedar ladder before installing it then buried it in gravel rather than dirt for drainage--I am stil a little concerned that it might rot with ground contact anyway--especially in Florida. Any sage thoughts? I guess it only needs to last 5 yrs or so.
 

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Wow Richard. Very nice! I always save your posts for future reference.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Joe. I hope it was helpful.

Dave, Great news. I'll be watching for posting/pix of your gold spike ceremony. :D

Matt,
The glue is "Welder". It comes in a tube. there's a 4 oz ina silver tube and a combo package of a 3oz and 1oz in red tubes. Our local Walmart now handles only the combo pack. It is a contact cement and gives you time to spread it out over some area and apply siding, etc. before it dries.

Most of the buildings I make use boxes of clear acrylic. http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?pid=65578#p65578 I use wood as in the shed for small incidental structures that will have no interior detailing or lights. i mentioned the method for larger structures because many on here are not (yet) model builders but still might want something unique as well as relatively simple on their RR's to make them more individual. Too, it's a good first step into "rolling you own". :)

Putting your roadbed in gravel is a good idea. Of course your conditions in Florida are quite different from here in Oregon so you might have to experiment a bit. I lived for awhile in Jacksonville but I was quite young then and not into outdoor railroading so I really can't advise you beyond general opinions.
 

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Richard,
You Sir are a steely eyed railroad man! Good instructions and as usual a great looking building.
I am almost ready to post pics of my USFS fire spotting tower. Had a bad wind here and lost the roof of my wife’s 20 X 40 storage tent yesterday, so it will be a couple of days before I can get er done.
Best, Ted
 

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Ahaaaa! Up to your old tricks again I see, well that's something that's been missing lately. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/hehe.gif:D Glad to see you back at it.

As usual your posting has been abducted and safely tucked into Port Orford Coast RR: Volume 2. :D
 

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Very nice Richard. Simple and great looking!

Craig

btw, Coast Guard Flight Mechanic and Avionics Specialist, Matt Sheline reports to the North Bend Air Station this Monday (7-21) to begin 4 years of patrolling the Southern Oregon coast. He purchased a home in Coos Bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you Ted. I will be watching for your post on the fire tower. Sounds like its been a bit windy out your way. People close to the ocean here sometimes lose their carport and often a few shingles.

Steve
I consider it a great honor for someone with your computer and editing skills to be interested enough in my poor efforts to put together such a compilation. Thank you.

Richard
I've had no trouble with PVC expansion when used for roofs, etc. so far, as most are removeable and therefore somewhat free floating, or on small fixed roofs. I did experience quite a bit of warpage on a couple of roads I made from it. This may be due to insufficient support from beneath as well as their expanse. Over all it has proven to be an excellent product for almost everything. I like it for window trim. I've even ripped it down to 3/8" and 1/2" square stock to use for sign posts and crossbucks and it has held up beautifully. It cuts like butter, much easier than acrylic. The crossbuck signs themselves are 1/8" thick. Of course as always I don't know how well it'll do in very hot climes as it's rather coolish here most of the time.

Craig,
That's only an hour north of us. Will he be in one of the helicopters? We see Coast Guard helicopters flying right over the house here regularly close enough to see the RR I'm sure if they look this way. I assume they're looking for marijuana growers.
 

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Marijuana growers? Not likely. The Sheriff gets to do that. They are most likely looking for beach bunnies getting an all over tan....
/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif
He flies routine patrols several times a month (called flight pay). Speciality is night vision avionics.... So be careful what you are doing out by the railroad after dark...
/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/whistling.gif

Photo #2 & #3
 

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Richard, another great project, great result and fine instructions!

One question, there is something green on the side of the building, what is that?

Also, I see tracks in front of the shed, so is it for a speeder?
 

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Mike,
Thanks for the comments. I do indeed use end cuts off of PT lumber as you suggest.

Jim,
The green thing is a call box, an Ozark part. I would have liked it to be more visible but that was the most logical location for it. Besides it gives people something to discover on a layout with little incidental detailing.

The track is for the crew's speeder or handcar. I didn't have room for the track to extend between the building and the structure or I'd have built a handcar/tool shed instead of just a tool shed.
 

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My Sister wanted to do something for my RR So to start off easy I got a little engine shed from Garden Texture. I got here all the stuff to do it. It sat on the shelff with all the tools for over a year.
I showed here what you did with your little Tool Shed.

She is now inspired to try and assemble the Garden Texture kit.

Thanks for your help :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Posted By John J on 07/23/2008 6:23 PM
My Sister wanted to do something for my RR So to start off easy I got a little engine shed from Garden Texture. I got here all the stuff to do it. It sat on the shelff with all the tools for over a year.
I showed here what you did with your little Tool Shed.

She is now inspired to try and assemble the Garden Texture kit.

Thanks for your help :D" border=0>




JJ,
Always a pleasure to help out with family problems. /DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/mls/emoticons/tongue.gif:D
 
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