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· Premium Member
4,797 Posts
Well... You have lots of options from cheap and workable like I use to expensive and incredibly cool.

My photo in your other thread is an Aristo trackside TE mounted in my Mallet's tender. This is a cheap solution. The battery is $33. The transmitter and receiver about $130 or so. Right now, if you buy a pair, Aristo will send you another receiver for the cost of shipping.

Aristo also has an "onboard" te that's smaller and has more features. A little more expensive.

There's the RCS system. I love the little pocket size remote with 4 buttons.

And there's locolink.

And Airwire gives you a cool little remote with a knob and all the DCC features.

Hey Mike,

please allow me the opportunity to say Thank You for your service to our Great County!

.....the first thing I'd do (and did when I made that same choice) was to read all I could here on MLS, LargeScaleCentral and the GR Mag forums. I spent a few months investigating and posting questions much like you did here. I also contacted a few men from the different forums and they very generously shared their experiences with me.
There are prob about 5 or 6 major players in the RC game right now. I decided that I wanted ease of use, low price, capacity to grow the system, and simple Bell and Whistle control for sound. After those months of surveying the landscape (if you will) I chose the EVO/RCS control from Remote Control Systems. Since then I've converted nearly 6 locos to work on the system which has performed flawlessly for me and the kids. (note: I'm just a happy customer, no sales rep or associate!).

with all that said...what do you need?

1. A Locomotive
2. Power Source-Battery (I've used NiCad and NiMh)
3. A Throttle/Receiver
4. Transmitter
5. Sound Card-if you want sound

I'd imagine you could install all components in the tender. It can be a little overwhelming to begin with, but help has always been just a phone call away (for me using NWRCS). All systems have a pretty loyal following (see my above referral), so you will find many reports on what works best, and why. Again, I'd encourage you to really study this over and make an informed choice. Go back into the archives here on MLS, look into the other forums mentioned to find all sorts of "How To's "and reviews. Also look into the Mfg websites for more information on what is avail and required. If you feel you may not be up to the task of installing your own system, there are shops countywide that can assist you!
Battery/RC has been a great choice here on the NBRR…we have be well pleased that we began our Journey in LS Trains via Battery Power!

Welcome aboard!


· Registered
1,851 Posts
look into QSI sound and Airwire control. Check em out go to my you tube site through my webpage, and take a look at my dash 9 with Airwire and QSI sound PNP takes about 20 minutes to install sound and control with the G-wire (Airwire control) T9000 throttle. http://blueregal.angelfire.com/ or www.qsisolutions, or www.cvpusa.com. Check it all out sound and 32 controllable functions from the throttle. The Regal

· Registered
54 Posts
Currently I am changing out all my Aristo 27 and 75 systems (7) to the compact Airwire 9000, QSI and Gwire.
Looking at size, location, range and options available in new RC system which includes sound.
Overall it is cheaper and easier to install in my own opinion. It will all fit in the loco and you don’t need to keep adding peripherals to get to where others already are.


· Premium Member
4 Posts
Here's an electronic newbee question: I installed an Aristo on-board receiver and l-ion battery pack in the tender of my Bachmann 4-4-0. I used a standard Radio Shack fuse holder on the positive wire coming from the battery. The fuse is a 5x20mm 3 amp, 250 volt fuse. When I check the voltage on the battery side of the fuse, I get about 22 volts. On the other side of the fuse, I get around 5-10 volts. What is causing the drop? I,m no electronic expert, so would appreciate any suggestions you may have. BTW, the fuse is in between the battery and a DPDT toggle. Any ideas as to what I do to get full voltage through the fuse?


Dick Myers

[script removed]

· Premium Member
7,272 Posts
Any ideas as to what I do to get full voltage through the fuse?

(You really should start a new thread instead of hijackling Mike's?)

As Charles says, take out the fuse and wrap a piece of wire around the ends to connect them, then test the voltage again. If it is now the same at both sides, go and get a new fuse. If not, get a new fuse holder!
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