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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening,

I purchased a first LGB starter set for my son ( addicted to trains, even our holidays are driven to find trains, lovely switzerland - we are in europe) Good excuse for me to play with it as well :)

So First of all, I'm trying to reproduce the following track originally designed for O gauge, I downloaded the software SCARM and started to mock it up, but i have some issues :

In the middle, I had to insert a few short track and and adjustable straight line ( ref 10090, in the middle yellow circle .
So first question: Am i doing something wrong ( all the small parts are different length : 41, 52 and 75 and the adjustable part.. this is pretty "geometric" - sorry for my english, I find strange that i could not fit something more "symmetrical")

Also on the bottom right part: new issue: They are not perfectly aligned in the software and also the size is not standart..


thanks for your help !
Serge


Rectangle Line Slope Font Parallel
 

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In large scale you can cheat a little. track can have small gaps as the wheels are so big that a 1/16th gap will not cause a derailment. This is great for outdoors where the weather changes so much that gaps come and go on my RR. -10 degrees Fin the winter to over 100 degrees in the sun..
 

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This is why LGB makes all sorts of smaller pieces. In many cases one or two of them will come in handy to complete a track plan. If you find yourself using two of a certain size, there is usually a single piece of the combined length.

Another thing is the track does not have to meet precisely. Quite often a very small issue is ignored and the track just connected. There is usually enough flex in the lengths being used that these are not a problem. Just try it and see.

Hope it helps.
 

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Currently Building a Layout and experimenting with 3D printed kits and scratch built freight cars
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if you live in an area with cold winters be wary of freeze thaw cycles last year we had a p articularly cold winter (our coldest winter since the 1950s) and all the roads cracked because of it, if i had track outside at that time it might have been damaged
 

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I have 10 cars that have been outdoors here in Massachusetts for 20 years. LGB cars retain the color the best. Bachmann iron rails rust and fall off. LGB uses brass which darken in color like track but stay intact. Usa TraIns fade but take many years.
 

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Hi Serge,

You can actually make that layout with standard LGB track pieces.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Pattern


As presented, this layout requires:
  • 22x 10000 Standard straight (L=300mm)
  • 1x 10050 Make-up straight (L=52mm)
  • 2x 10070 Quarter straight (L=75mm)
  • 5x 10150 Half straight (L=150mm)
  • 29x 11000 Curve (30° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 11020 Make-up curve (15° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 13100 Crossing ( L=150/185mm 90°)
Things to note:
  • The 13100 crossing has one leg longer than the other 3. In this layout, the long leg should point southeast.
  • There 10050 in the southeast corner does not quite fit perfectly. There is a very tiny gap (about 2.6 mm).
Optimisations:

There are a couple of easy modifications that may result in a better experience.

Long straights

You have several long runs of 10000 300mm straights. Runs of 2 can be replaced with 10600 600mm straights. Runs of 4 can be replaced with 10610 1200mm straights.

Wider corners

The outer four corners can be replaced with R2 or even R3 curves*. At the cost of a more space, larger curves will create more aesthetically pleasing and realistic curves, and are easier on the trains. As long as you make identical changes to each of the four corners it will not change the basic geometry.

If you make the corners larger you may want to make the straights shorter to compensate. Because of the exit to the inner path you cannot compress the eastern end of the horizontal straights without affecting the geometry, but the vertical straights can be safely shortened as can the western end of the horizontal.

Example: use R2 curves, and reduce the top west straight to 4x300mm + 1x150mm and the side straights to 1x300mm.
Rectangle Slope Font Circle Pattern


Junctions

An obvious simple junction is to replace the top two curves leading into the crossing with matching R1 turnouts. You can then create a straight through path by joining the tracks with a 300mm and 52mm piece (with the same 2.6mm gap as down the bottom).

Obviously, there are other options also, including sidings.


* some people advise using R3 as your minimum curve. All LGB trains are designed to run on R1, but a 60cm coach around a R1 curve will hang over a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Serge,

You can actually make that layout with standard LGB track pieces.

View attachment 64695

As presented, this layout requires:
  • 22x 10000 Standard straight (L=300mm)
  • 1x 10050 Make-up straight (L=52mm)
  • 2x 10070 Quarter straight (L=75mm)
  • 5x 10150 Half straight (L=150mm)
  • 29x 11000 Curve (30° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 11020 Make-up curve (15° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 13100 Crossing ( L=150/185mm 90°)
Things to note:
  • The 13100 crossing has one leg longer than the other 3. In this layout, the long leg should point southeast.
  • There 10050 in the southeast corner does not quite fit perfectly. There is a very tiny gap (about 2.6 mm).
Optimisations:

There are a couple of easy modifications that may result in a better experience.

Long straights

You have several long runs of 10000 300mm straights. Runs of 2 can be replaced with 10600 600mm straights. Runs of 4 can be replaced with 10610 1200mm straights.

Wider corners

The outer four corners can be replaced with R2 or even R3 curves*. At the cost of a more space, larger curves will create more aesthetically pleasing and realistic curves, and are easier on the trains. As long as you make identical changes to each of the four corners it will not change the basic geometry.

If you make the corners larger you may want to make the straights shorter to compensate. Because of the exit to the inner path you cannot compress the eastern end of the horizontal straights without affecting the geometry, but the vertical straights can be safely shortened as can the western end of the horizontal.

Example: use R2 curves, and reduce the top west straight to 4x300mm + 1x150mm and the side straights to 1x300mm.
View attachment 64696

Junctions

An obvious simple junction is to replace the top two curves leading into the crossing with matching R1 turnouts. You can then create a straight through path by joining the tracks with a 300mm and 52mm piece (with the same 2.6mm gap as down the bottom).

Obviously, there are other options also, including sidings.


* some people advise using R3 as your minimum curve. All LGB trains are designed to run on R1, but a 60cm coach around a R1 curve will hang over a long way.

A big thank you Sir !!
That was exactly the help I was looking for as a complete beginner !
If one day you visit Luxembourg, you are entitled to get a free beer at my place !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Serge,

You can actually make that layout with standard LGB track pieces.

View attachment 64695

As presented, this layout requires:
  • 22x 10000 Standard straight (L=300mm)
  • 1x 10050 Make-up straight (L=52mm)
  • 2x 10070 Quarter straight (L=75mm)
  • 5x 10150 Half straight (L=150mm)
  • 29x 11000 Curve (30° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 11020 Make-up curve (15° R1=600mm)
  • 2x 13100 Crossing ( L=150/185mm 90°)
Things to note:
  • The 13100 crossing has one leg longer than the other 3. In this layout, the long leg should point southeast.
  • There 10050 in the southeast corner does not quite fit perfectly. There is a very tiny gap (about 2.6 mm).
Optimisations:

There are a couple of easy modifications that may result in a better experience.

Long straights

You have several long runs of 10000 300mm straights. Runs of 2 can be replaced with 10600 600mm straights. Runs of 4 can be replaced with 10610 1200mm straights.

Wider corners

The outer four corners can be replaced with R2 or even R3 curves*. At the cost of a more space, larger curves will create more aesthetically pleasing and realistic curves, and are easier on the trains. As long as you make identical changes to each of the four corners it will not change the basic geometry.

If you make the corners larger you may want to make the straights shorter to compensate. Because of the exit to the inner path you cannot compress the eastern end of the horizontal straights without affecting the geometry, but the vertical straights can be safely shortened as can the western end of the horizontal.

Example: use R2 curves, and reduce the top west straight to 4x300mm + 1x150mm and the side straights to 1x300mm.
View attachment 64696

Junctions

An obvious simple junction is to replace the top two curves leading into the crossing with matching R1 turnouts. You can then create a straight through path by joining the tracks with a 300mm and 52mm piece (with the same 2.6mm gap as down the bottom).

Obviously, there are other options also, including sidings.


* some people advise using R3 as your minimum curve. All LGB trains are designed to run on R1, but a 60cm coach around a R1 curve will hang over a long way.
BTW, what should I do with the 2.6mm gap ? just "force" a little bit to fit the track, or cut a track to fit 100 % ?
Thanks again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to all, I tried to reproduce Andrew's circuit in SCARM but I always struggle with the 90deg crossing.
It seems the straight part (58mm) opposite the longest path (78mm) is longer than the 2 at 90 degrees (50mm). Are you aware of any issue un SCARM ?

Also, I've got another quetsion please I can start a new thread if needed.. I want to include some electric turnouts - controlled with the LGB control box (51577), i'm reading in the documentation that i should use a converter (60130). So my question is: I f I connect the power supply (51090) to the converter, can I connect at the same time the control box 51577 and the locomotive controller 51099 ?

Thanks again for your help, I'm just starting with my son and i'm trying not to sell my kidney (yet) :)
Kind regards
Serge
 

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The track will easily flex and close that joint. You will see when you assemble it.

By the way, sectional track is never perfectly accurate in length and curvature.
Totally agree with Greg. I just called that out because my track planner noted that it was not mathematically perfect.

Consider that the side tracks are 300+300+150 = 750mm long. If my math is correct, 2.6mm is the same as having your 750mm length off square by a mere 0.2 degrees (atan(2.6/750)). In G scale, only a track planner tool will be able to tell you if a 2mm gap is in the design or just result of tolerances in the track laying.

It seems the straight part (58mm) opposite the longest path (78mm) is longer than the 2 at 90 degrees (50mm). Are you aware of any issue un SCARM ?
LGB 90 degree crossing: You'll notice the dimensions are 150mm in one axis and 185mm in the other. I don't know why they build it with one leg 35mm longer than the other 3.

I use RailModeller Pro (Mac), so I'm not that familiar with any quirks in the SCARM libraries, sorry.

Also, I've got another quetsion please I can start a new thread if needed.. I want to include some electric turnouts - controlled with the LGB control box (51577), i'm reading in the documentation that i should use a converter (60130). So my question is: I f I connect the power supply (51090) to the converter, can I connect at the same time the control box 51577 and the locomotive controller 51099 ?
I assume you mean 51755?

From a pure power supply perspective, a 51090 should be able to drive both a loco controller and a momentary-on control box. That said, the wiring is obviously designed to drive only a single device (one plug), and the DC output of the 60130 converter should not be used to drive the loco controller.

The obvious solution is one power pack for the loco controller and one for the auxillary components. I'll let someone more knowledgable than I comment on the wisdom (or lack thereof) of putting a splitter on the 51090 output.

Note: In your first post you mentioned an "LGB starter set", so I assume this is a non-digital system. With a digital system a single "command station" module provides power and control to both train and turnouts. Once you want to run more than one train DCC Is amazing, but it's also more expensive to get started.
 

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You can use a 16-18 volt A/C bell transformer to operate the switches via the LGB control boxes. Available at Lowes/Home Depot, etc. I see 18 volt 30va units on Amazon for less than $20.00 LGB units is only 500ma, 30va is over 1.5 amps 1500ma).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Totally agree with Greg. I just called that out because my track planner noted that it was not mathematically perfect.

Consider that the side tracks are 300+300+150 = 750mm long. If my math is correct, 2.6mm is the same as having your 750mm length off square by a mere 0.2 degrees (atan(2.6/750)). In G scale, only a track planner tool will be able to tell you if a 2mm gap is in the design or just result of tolerances in the track laying.

LGB 90 degree crossing: You'll notice the dimensions are 150mm in one axis and 185mm in the other. I don't know why they build it with one leg 35mm longer than the other 3.

I use RailModeller Pro (Mac), so I'm not that familiar with any quirks in the SCARM libraries, sorry.

I assume you mean 51755?

From a pure power supply perspective, a 51090 should be able to drive both a loco controller and a momentary-on control box. That said, the wiring is obviously designed to drive only a single device (one plug), and the DC output of the 60130 converter should not be used to drive the loco controller.

The obvious solution is one power pack for the loco controller and one for the auxillary components. I'll let someone more knowledgable than I comment on the wisdom (or lack thereof) of putting a splitter on the 51090 output.

Note: In your first post you mentioned an "LGB starter set", so I assume this is a non-digital system. With a digital system a single "command station" module provides power and control to both train and turnouts. Once you want to run more than one train DCC Is amazing, but it's also more expensive to get started.
Once again thank for your time and your precious knowledge !

It is true, I'm not yet digital, just starting LGB ( We - my son, 6 and a half, and I - have trainS with a big S : Duplo - now in boxes, legos with a lot of custom rails, marklin my world and marklin startup - this one is digital ) . He is addicted to train, we are super lucky here in luxembourg public transport is free, so over the weekends, we spend time in trains ! He has a real Luxembourg chief or railway station cap, that helps to speak to controllers, train drivers and so on ! ( Once, we were able to join the driver for a short travel of 15 minutes !)

So we are just starting LGB and need to invest to have something decent we can play with in summer time, i'm trying to design a nice, not to big, layout, would like to be able to control the turnouts and maybe have both train partially automated ( ie one runs, the second is stopped, when the first one enters the station, it stops and the second starts fr a ride).
I tought this circuit is nice - I'll add the suggested junction plus and extra track to simulate a station..

I'll post photo next year when this is build !

Thanks again for your support, Serge
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Totally agree with Greg. I just called that out because my track planner noted that it was not mathematically perfect.

Consider that the side tracks are 300+300+150 = 750mm long. If my math is correct, 2.6mm is the same as having your 750mm length off square by a mere 0.2 degrees (atan(2.6/750)). In G scale, only a track planner tool will be able to tell you if a 2mm gap is in the design or just result of tolerances in the track laying.

LGB 90 degree crossing: You'll notice the dimensions are 150mm in one axis and 185mm in the other. I don't know why they build it with one leg 35mm longer than the other 3.

I use RailModeller Pro (Mac), so I'm not that familiar with any quirks in the SCARM libraries, sorry.

I assume you mean 51755?

From a pure power supply perspective, a 51090 should be able to drive both a loco controller and a momentary-on control box. That said, the wiring is obviously designed to drive only a single device (one plug), and the DC output of the 60130 converter should not be used to drive the loco controller.

The obvious solution is one power pack for the loco controller and one for the auxillary components. I'll let someone more knowledgable than I comment on the wisdom (or lack thereof) of putting a splitter on the 51090 output.

Note: In your first post you mentioned an "LGB starter set", so I assume this is a non-digital system. With a digital system a single "command station" module provides power and control to both train and turnouts. Once you want to run more than one train DCC Is amazing, but it's also more expensive to get started.
Good afternoon,

Actually the LGB 90 degree crossing,has only 2 legs with the same size (see below), I'll try to redesign taking this into account.. but why they have done this.. ?

best regards,
serge

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LGB 90 degree crossing: You'll notice the dimensions are 150mm in one axis and 185mm in the other. I don't know why they build it with one leg 35mm longer than the other 3.
I was also wondering why the legs were different length. Then I realised with the LGB 90 degree crossing, it is the easy to cross a double main line and keep the spacing of the two rail lines.


Good afternoon,

Actually the LGB 90 degree crossing,has only 2 legs with the same size (see below), I'll try to redesign taking this into account.. but why they have done this.. ?

best regards,
serge
This has been very handy for me:

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 
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