[White Deer RR]

So while I've had my Aristo 0-4-0 starter set on the ground since 2006, I only recently stopped lurking here and had my first post here (with photos!)


http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi....com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/23/postid/101364/view/topic/Default.aspx


What can I say, I'm slow and not particularly handy. Definitely a beginner after three years.


After I immodestly stated I'd had little trouble with my stainless track, a few days later everything got buggy. Stalls, Basic TE not responsive, etc. I had previously ordered some metal wheels for the two carriages and installed them yesterday. Likely related to using the thing more.


Close examination of the track and 0-4-0 wheels revealed serious crud. So this morning I had time to use some medium grit sandpaper on the track, followed by some household oil wiped off with paper towels. (Luckily this is a very small oval.) I also cleaned the locomotive wheels and the once-used metal carriage wheels.


This evening the Headmistress returned with the Sproutling Engineer (age 9 and very cute) with a menagerie of non-scale plastic animals for the layout (that cow is about 10,000 pounds!)

We ran the train for about two hours, and it was working like new. Obviously one aspect is that with a short oval, the engine is returning to the same spot about every thirty seconds at a medium slow pace. Lots of chances for oxidation.

And that's what I believe happened. I had cleaned the track, the locomotive wheels and the one-day old carriage wheels quite thoroughly this morning. Near dusk, the locomotive started slipping on a slight incline in a curve, so I wiped my finger across the track and it came back black as coal.


Obviously the use of oil could have played a role in the slipping, as suggested by Mr. George Schreyer at his track cleaning tips page.

http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips2/track_cleaning_tips.html

Since I have the small layout, I grabbed a Swiffer and stuck a paper towel in it, and removed some black stuff before dark rather easily. Still, I'm rather surprised at how much oxidation occurred, as I've always assumed the plastic wheels were partly to blame. At least tonight I'm convinced most of the black stuff was oxidation. I'm also intrigued by George's theory that dust plays a role. Since my little oval is irrigated it would be trivial to turn the sprinkler on an hour ahead of play time to reduce dust on the rails.


I finished this evening by letting the sprinklers run on the oval, as the plants needed water and it will likely dispense with the small amount of lightweight household oil on the track.

The good news is the train actually ran quite well with the metal wheels, and Sproutling had a grand old time. I'm thinking it might be SOP to just Swiffer the track after running with a paper towel attached, which would at least grab some powdery stuff, and clean the wheels once a week or as warranted.

Best to all.

 

[White Deer RR]

Could be the old wheels. George Schreyer's tips page describes it here
The old wheels are a chemically blackened casting with a high copper content (probably a bronze). I do not know the composition of the new wheels, but they appear to be anodized instead of blackened. The old wheels, especially the spokes are flat black in color. The new wheels are dark gray brown with a moderate sheen.


To my eye my 0-4-0 wheels look like the new ones. Maybe I'll snap a photo tonight, after picking up a green Scotch Brite pad.

 

[White Deer RR]

I tend to agree that most convenient solution for me will be the Aristo track cleaning car.

But---put down your coffee and carbonated beverages, everyone----

I'm not spending any more money on this hobby right now.

Really. I'm just not going to--oooh, look, shiny and new.....okay, next order maybe.

 

[White Deer RR]

Scotch Brite it is, definitely going to pick that up.

Very informative page, Greg, this is what's so great about you folks helping others out. I look forward to checking out more of your web site.

I see what you mean about smearing. I also see how easy it is to convince myself of something that may not be true. Perhaps it's possible for oxidation to be occurring only on the locomotive wheels rather than the rail, and then it is spread around by running? In the end I guess it doesn't matter, some cleaning of track is required anyhow it seems.


My best guess at this point is that as whatever plastic wheel gunk I missed goes away over time using metal carriage wheels, things will improve with some cleaning of the wheels on both the locomotive and carriages. Because I used household oil as a solvent it could have all just become one black goo. So last night's run time was a cleaning session, with giant animals galloping around. Still fun.


Period cleaning with Scotch-Brite will not be a huge problem for me at this time. As someone said in my first thread, small is beautiful!



Anyway, I know you all have covered this topic a lot and I thank you all for your time and input. Happy running!

 

[White Deer RR]

Yeah, I'll be avoiding sandpaper, although I didn't really torque on it or anything. But point taken in regards to scratches filling with crud. So in regards to the 0-4-0 wheels, I don't know if anyone can identify whether these are the old type or the new type from these photos, but here they are. I ran across the owner's manual for the starter set today, and it says the wheels are "specially BLACK-plated to insure good electrical conductivity...." I can't find a copyright date but there is an order form for Aristocraft's 1995 60th Anniversary edition in the manual. Of course, I've notice Artistocraft does not seem to update their printed materials very often so I don't know if that's much of a clue. Maybe I got really old stock in 2006 from a store I ordered from?

 

[White Deer RR]

I haven't noticed if the inside rails have more gunk, my impression is that the curves have more, so you may be on to something there.

 

[White Deer RR]

That's just ingenious. It would seem you could adjust the pressure by adding or subtracting material, such as your PVC, boards, whatever.


Hmmm... I wonder if that old battery operated Christmas train in the garage would take my extra set of metal wheels on its flat car. Hmmm.

I love the clever and inexpensive ideas.

 

[White Deer RR]

The CRC 2-26 sounds like an interesting product, may have to check it out next time I'm at a big box retailer that sells it.


Since I started this thread, we've run the trains several more nights on the small oval, and I cleaned all the wheels (now all metal) a few times in the mornings. The problem does seem to be improving with time and the use of metal wheels, although I still think there is some kind of electrical-related residue forming. One time I did notice individual black spots of the stuff on the locomotive wheels, which would tend to support the theory that it's a little bit of arcing on the wheels. I've also given the track a quick blast with the sprinklers in the late afternoons, which should reduce some dust.


Frankly with such a small layout if I see a spot I just bend over and wipe it off with a piece of paper towel, if I feel like it at the time. Forgot to buy the Scotch bright pad while shopping (doh!). Ah well, it's not like the kids won't burn through the orange juice in one or two afternoons again.


Fascinating and useful knowledge base here! Good to know as I contemplate about someday expanding the layout, and how to make it closer to bulletproof. Well, better anyhow. I can certainly see why most folks who have longer layouts would use all sorts of interesting methods and devices, very cool.

 

[White Deer RR]

After about 45 minutes of continuous running last night the lights on the Aristo 0-4-0 started flickering, and about the time I thought "It's going to just come to a complete stop" it came to a sudden complete stop.

After rather haphazardly wiping off some black stuff from the track, I decided to try a little experiment with WD-40. I sprayed a small amount on a paper towel, and wiped it on the rails in three places around the small oval. I tried to use a very small amount.


After a few trips around the Aristo 0-4-0 was buzzing along with absolutely no flickering or hesitation, and the Basic TE remote was responding better. Obviously I'm only pulling the two Sierra passenger cars with metal wheels, and my inclines are not very steep, so your mileage may vary.


Also, since I have only about 30 linear feet of track total, any mistake can be quickly rectified, so I was just curious to see what effect WD-40 would have. At least in my case, a very small amount seemed to be beneficial. The train ran well until I finally went inside after another 30 minutes or so.


But yeah, pole sander with Scotch Brite seems eminently practical for small layouts. Maybe I'll hit the big box store this weekend...

 

[White Deer RR]

Yeah, I'll see if I can take a close-up of the wheels at some point. What's good for now is Scotch-Brite pad works awesome, and once I get some kind of pole to put it on, I won't even have to get down on the ground.

It makes sense that any substance applied to the track, especially any kind of oil, will eventually leave a residue. I'm willing to live with that for the time being. If and when I get serious about expansion, it will be time to figure out what's up with the wheels.


I just have three cars--the 0-4-0 and the two Sierra passenger cars, now converted to metal wheels. Track has gone up a lot since 2006!



At any rate, the assistant engineer and her friend had a great time last night moving the animals on and off the train, and grazing them in the weeds. So it's all good right now!


Best to all.

 

[White Deer RR]

So as we had a bit of a thunderstorm last night, I listened to some Triple A baseball and cleaned the 0-4-0 and two Sierra cars' wheels in the garage. When the rain went away, wiped my 30 feet of track off real quick with the Scotch Brite, so the track was pretty darn clean.

Ran only the locomotive for about ten passes, then examined the track closely. Definitely new black stuff, almost in a pattern. So logically it could be pollution, the 0-4-0 wheels, dust from my crushed stone ballast, or some combination of things. I should have run enough times around with metal wheels on the passenger cars by now that whatever plastic residue might have remained would be gone.

Cleaning the track with a swiffer pole and Scotch Brite pad is trivial for me at this point. Would definitely get a cleaning car for substantial lengths of track.

Since it's so easy to convince myself of what I wish to believe, I wish to believe that WD-40 helps by loosening and thinning out the black stuff. Certainly a stop-gap solution, and I have nothing against kerosene. Just don't have any kerosene, although I can see why that would likely achieve the same result.

All good to know in case I ever actually do expand! Decisions decisions...happy running everyone.