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I have used a green scotchbright pad on a drywall sanding pole for years. I prefer the green to the maroon. I think that the maroon is a little coarser and may lightly scratch the track. I once took a piece of clean aluminum and buffed it with both the green and maroon. I thought that the maroon caused more minor scratching. Sandpaper no matter what grit size is a big NO NO. It will scratch the track which will lead to more problems.

You mention that you have a small loop. If the diameter is small (LGB R1 or R2) the black deposit could be metal and plastic from the wheels that is ground off while going around the curve and then spread along the track. Is there more black gunk on the outside rail than the inside rail?

Stainless steel is much harder that other metals the we usually deal with in our trains. It could be abrading the wheels.

Chuck N
 
If you are running inside, like under a Christmas tree, be careful if you have a light carpet. Dust from the wheels leaves a mark of all the ties and rails. Trust me, I know of what I speak.

The dust goes up down and around.

To clean wheels on engines, I cut the green scotchbright pads into 1/2 inch strips, and use that to clean the gunk off my wheels.

Chuck
 
Lownote:

The first time used "Rail Zip", a conducting liquid, I followed the directions. Something like a couple of drops every couple of feet around the layout. Nothing ran, I had nothing but wheels spinning. I had to put a cloth on my drywall sander and clean the track. I still use "Rail Zip", but much more carefully. Occasionally I will put a bead about 1/2 inch long on the rails at one place. This seems to help keep everything running smoothly. When I have a rail joiner that doesn't conduct as well as it should, I put a couple of drops in and along the joiner. That seems to help. With any grades, use any lubricant very sparingly, otherwise you will have a lot off engines staying in place.

Maybe our paths will cross this weekend.

Chuck N
 
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