[billsharron]

Can anyone point me to the links for battery install in a connie. I saw it somewhare but can't come up with it in either the old forum or here? Want to convert a connie to batt from a trail car as well as totally on board.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Bill, I have not done a battery conversion, but just did a DCC one on a connie. Do you have the wiring diagram?

Regards, Greg

 

[Guest]

425-823-3507...
Bill, call Dave, he can get you started!
http://dnkgoods.home.mindspring.com/index.html
cale
found this to help get you started--PDF of actual RCS Install in Connie
http://www.rcs-rc.com/accessories/rcs_tenloc_inst.pdf
....................
found this as well..... some of the same..may help?
http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=4685

 

[K27_463]

Bill , there are two ways to fit more than 4000 mah at 14.4 v in the tender of the Bach consolidation, and still have room for speaker, sound system and speed control/throttle. You can use standard 6 cell sub c in line packs (2) arranged along each side of the tender, tipped in slightly at the top, Depending on speaker choice you can use a round or oval in between. I have available a custom 14.4v volt/4000 mah pack that fits crossways in the rear, under the raised area of the tender deck, an exact snug fit. All electronics and hardware go in front with this method. 4000 mah plus runs a consolidation for a good long time with a trail car as an additional option.

Jonathan/EMW

 

[billsharron]

Thanks for the tips guys. & Greg, no I don'thave a wiring diagram. I was wondering if it would work the same way as the annie, by cutting the crosswires on the polarity switch on the front and using the tender light wires to get the power to the motor. I realize I would have to isolate the tender trucks in the Connie.

C I will check ouit the llinks ypu provoded appreciatre it. Jonathan I am considering Li-ion batts from All-battery.com

 

[paintjockey]

Bill, if i remember correctly (and i may not) the connie has an access on the bottom in the rear of the loco that lets you get to the pc board. There is a simple two prong plug that disconnects the power pickup and the lighting wires and motor wires are there as well. From there i used the tender power pickup wires (disconnected from the trucks) to run power from my batteries and rx into the loco. (i'm not real sure about this one as i can't remember) But I used the rear light wire feeds for the front light. I know it was easy to pull new wires to the front of the loco for that. I didn't have to disassemble the loco shell at all for this save taking the boiler front cover off. I have run the loco for two years using the original factory plugs and wires between the loco and tender. I am using airwire with 3800 mAh 7.2 volt batteries. i hope this helps. If you have any other questions feel free to email me.
Terry

 

[billsharron]

Thanks for the input Terry, I have got the wiring diagrams from Greg and it is now time to study and make a conversion plan!!

 

[Big65Dude]

Here's how I installed power and sound in my "Super Connie":

The on/off switch and the charging jack for the 14.4 volt lithium-ion battery pack are hidden in the water fill trunk. The battery pack fits under the air tank inside the tender shell. The AirWire receiver/decoder and the smaller Phoenix P5 sound board are mounted on top of the speaker baffle and normally concealed by the removable coal pile. There's a volume switch and a programming jack to the right of the P5. Holes cut in the bottom of the tender frame provide plenty of ventilation.

 

[billsharron]

Wow Jack, that is a real nice install!! Did you build an enclosure around the speaker to get good sound?? I was wondering if the holes in the floor caused any sound problems? I like the idea of the holes in the floor to help keep things cool

 

[Big65Dude]

Posted By billsharron on 04/24/2008 4:24 PM
Wow Jack, that is a real nice install!! Did you build an enclosure around the speaker to get good sound?? I was wondering if the holes in the floor caused any sound problems? I like the idea of the holes in the floor to help keep things cool




Bill


I used sheet styrene to build a rectangular box (four sides and a top) around the speaker. The top surface is where I mounted the AirWire receiver/decoder and Phoenix sound card with double-sided foam tape. (That's why there're so close to the top of the tender shell.) The holes were drilled in the tender floor outside of the box, which is essentially sound- and air-proof, so it still acts effectively as a baffle.