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Hi,
I didn't know where to post this question so I put here. I have 2 two truck Shays. They haven't operated for 5 to 7 years- lost track- but anyway the drive gears on all the 8 axels accept for 1 are split in two. Can you buy the gear only? It is made to replace the gear it looks to me. If so where is the best place to get them. I can't get through to Bachmann and they don't seem to answer their e-mail.

Guess if I can't find just the gears I'll write a program and machine them out of Celcon


Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you know how much they charge for the trucks? I've been trying to contact them for 2 day and all I get a busy tone.
 

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Replacement truck pairs, made of die-cast metal and not plastic, cost around $110-120 a set and are pretty easy to install - most Bachmann dealers have them in stock . By trying to buy replacement parts for your early shays you are only putting off the fateful day when you will need to do it in any event, as the first series of Shays seem to have been blighted with self-destructing trucks, as, in fact, your post demonstrates.

Bite the bullet now, and enjoy the long life of the Shays that will be the result.

tac
http://www.ovgrs.org/
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hum fpr that price I will CNC new gears myself. That is rediculis since I only paid 240 when there were new.
 

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Bachmann has a return policy that says they will repair or replace any broken engine. In the case of your Shays which are their Spectrum line I think they charge a flat $50 for this service. So for $100 and shipping they will fix them both for you.

Big John
 

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Hi Handles,

I heard a rumor that Bachmann will be closed through January for inventory, don't know if it is true or not, but might explain your lack of contact.

If you machine new gears you will be putting them into a drive train that is known for spacer, washer, and case failure. If you have Bachmann
do the repair for 50$ you will be getting the old style motor blocks that are known for gear, washer,spacer, and case failure.

If you intend to run the Shay's, buy the new cast metal motor blocks and be done with it.

Yes I know all the arguments, but facts are facts.
Good luck
Rick Marty
 

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Posted By R.W. Marty on 01/06/2009 6:36 PM
Hi Handles,

I If you have Bachmann
do the repair for 50$ you will be getting the old style motor blocks that are known for gear, washer,spacer, and case failure.

If you intend to run the Shay's, buy the new cast metal motor blocks and be done with it.

Yes I know all the arguments, but facts are facts.
Good luck
Rick Marty



Used to be $25 and when I sent mine in for repairs, the plastic replacement trucks were "pre-cracked" for me from Bachmann.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I talked to a dealer yesterday I used to deal with, he said he could sell me 2 sets of the metal gears for 2 hundred. As much as I would like to save the money I had him order in 2 set for me.
Sice logging is part of the layout I figured I would bit the bullet and do it once. Now I need to see how much 18 new batter packs will cost for the Pheonix sound systems I have. Gonna be expensive but at least I don't need any track. I had 2900 feet out at one time but I think I will go smaller for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One more Bachman question? Are there any problems with the Climax trucks? If so I want to fix it while I'm at it.
 

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Posted By Nohandles on 01/07/2009 9:06 AM


One more Bachman question? Are there any problems with the Climax trucks? If so I want to fix it while I'm at it.


Nope....great engine, it just runs and runs and runs... :) :) :)


 

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Discussion Starter #13
Posted By Dean Whipple on 01/07/2009 10:49 AM
Posted By Nohandles on 01/07/2009 9:06 AM


One more Bachman question? Are there any problems with the Climax trucks? If so I want to fix it while I'm at it.


Nope....great engine, it just runs and runs and runs...







That is good thanks for the reply Dean.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I cut 4 new drive gears for my favorite Shay so I could run it until the new drive units come in for them.

I have some questions before I start in ernest:

1- There are a 127 engines in my collection. Should I lube them before running them a lot?
2- Do any of you make your own sound system battery packs? I need to replace 28 packs- little pricy and 13 buck a piece.
3- Went out to the barn and brought in all the rail 2900 feet. What is the best way to clean it?
4- My original road bass was 8 to 12 inches of crushed lime stone tamped but it still was a lot of maintance.
I'm considering putting down 1 x 12 pressure treated wood down with a 3 foot 2 x 4 sunk 30 down whith
a 2x4 layed flat under the 1 by about every 4 feet. Also a 2x4 every 2 feet to keep it flat. Sealed with Tompsons water seal.
What do you think? Other ideas please? I am in the Cleveland area so we get a lot of movement.
5- What kind of electric switch machines are avaliable and realible? I have 30 swithes I made myself but all the machines are
toast. Out of a 126 switches I had one that still works. Great. Maybe I should just build manual throws and get some exercise?
5- All of my cars have metal wheels do I need to clean them? And what do you all do?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Doug

To make a start on your questions ...

All locos need lubrication of some sort ... it depends on the loco so its hard to give a really specific answer. In general, the gearboxes need to be lubed with a heavy gear oil or grease. This is normally done at the factory and may or may not need more now depending on how long the loco has sat. On steam locos and especially those shays, the running gear should get a drop of light plastic compatible oil on the bearing surfaces before every usage. Do not overoil as it attracts dirt.

On the issue of roadbed ... I am in the Ottawa Valley in Canada which has a much colder and longer winter than the south shore of Lake Erie. All OVGRS members who have track down have used the same method. Track is elevated by setting deckbloks topped with pt 4x4 to the required height. These are put on 6 foot centres to carry a roadbed of pt 2x6. Track is attached to the 2x6 by spiking every 12th tie through the ends. We have had no problem with frost heave as long as the original fround on which the deckblocks sit is compacted or undisturbed. We do not however use track power so we have no concerns about electrical continuity. All OVGRS member use battery RC. Take a look at our website www.ovgrs.org for pics of what we do.

In your case, if you insist on making the equivalent of footing by sinking posts in the ground, I would recommend consulting your local building code for the requirements for building decks. A failure to get a post below the frost line will result in the frost eventually lifting the post.

As you have found, we too found that switch mechanisms do not survive winters well. Sitting in ice and snow for months on end takes its toll. The Aristo switch machines and even their manual throws are particularly problematic - OVGRS members pitch them at the outset. LGB's are only slightly better. We make our own manual throws using a few different methods - I personally prefer automotive choke cables. For an automated switch, if you must have one, I would suggest using compressed air activated switch motors.

Regards ... Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Posted By Dougald on 01/09/2009 7:04 AM
Doug

To make a start on your questions ...

All locos need lubrication of some sort ... it depends on the loco so its hard to give a really specific answer. In general, the gearboxes need to be lubed with a heavy gear oil or grease. This is normally done at the factory and may or may not need more now depending on how long the loco has sat. On steam locos and especially those shays, the running gear should get a drop of light plastic compatible oil on the bearing surfaces before every usage. Do not overoil as it attracts dirt.

On the issue of roadbed ... I am in the Ottawa Valley in Canada which has a much colder and longer winter than the south shore of Lake Erie. All OVGRS members who have track down have used the same method. Track is elevated by setting deckbloks topped with pt 4x4 to the required height. These are put on 6 foot centres to carry a roadbed of pt 2x6. Track is attached to the 2x6 by spiking every 12th tie through the ends. We have had no problem with frost heave as long as the original fround on which the deckblocks sit is compacted or undisturbed. We do not however use track power so we have no concerns about electrical continuity. All OVGRS member use battery RC. Take a look at our website www.ovgrs.org for pics of what we do.

In your case, if you insist on making the equivalent of footing by sinking posts in the ground, I would recommend consulting your local building code for the requirements for building decks. A failure to get a post below the frost line will result in the frost eventually lifting the post.

As you have found, we too found that switch mechanisms do not survive winters well. Sitting in ice and snow for months on end takes its toll. The Aristo switch machines and even their manual throws are particularly problematic - OVGRS members pitch them at the outset. LGB's are only slightly better. We make our own manual throws using a few different methods - I personally prefer automotive choke cables. For an automated switch, if you must have one, I would suggest using compressed air activated switch motors.

Regards ... Doug

Thanks for the tips Doug. I know the code for the area is 30 inches so I always go 36. I like the deck block idea better though sounds like a little easier time since I have lots of trees on my lot.
I think I will need to stay with DC power here with as many engines as I have it would be a small fortune to reoutfit them all. I have reall good luck with the DC power as I soldered # 12 braded copper wire across each jiont with a small loop so I gould cut them and resolder if needed.
I suspected I should relube them but for the few Iopened they seem like there is ample lube in them but I think they will all need inspection and some lube.

Can't wait to get started this spring its been a long time.
 

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i have one of the first shays too-
same split gears-only after a few hours of running
id recommend the new trucks as the easiest fix

i spent many hours reworking mine with replacment parts and adjusting the ball bearing electrical contacts so they were softer -
havent had any issues since-but im waiting for the ceap plastic hosuing to finally give it up-its not an engine i use much-they do require regular and careful and extensive lubing, per the video-its a job
just buy the replacements for ease
 

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Posted By stevedenver on 01/09/2009 4:08 PM
i have one of the first shays too-
same split gears-only after a few hours of running
id recommend the new trucks as the easiest fix

i spent many hours reworking mine with replacment parts and adjusting the ball bearing electrical contacts so they were softer -
havent had any issues since-but im waiting for the ceap plastic hosuing to finally give it up-its not an engine i use much-they do require regular and careful and extensive lubing, per the video-its a job
just buy the replacements for ease

My Shays have at least 2 to 300 hours on them so I guess I got a good pare of them when I got them. And now there is at least 3 hours on the gears I made for my favorite one. I've been running in the family room much to my dear wife's suffering. But she is a trooper and as excited about getting the rail road up and going as me.
 
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