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I had the same engine and boiler. Nice collectable engine, but if you want an engine for a boat you are better off with other engines. It has the same cylinders as the Aster shay. Boiler is nice and steams well. I sold the engine and kept the boiler for a future project. The Saito marine engines run so much better than the Aster. I had approached Accucraft about doing a Marine Power plant even provided them a concept drawing but had not heard anything about it for years.

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Steve
 

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Robert

Yes Aster made 2 and 3 cylinder steam plants and a very nice Tug which used one of the plants. they are all quite hard to find.

The only real problem with the plants is the pressurised alcohol burner which can be a bit of a challenge. Anyone with a nervous disposition should not attemopt to fire it up!
Catalog pages for your interest.

Andrew
 

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Steve, I would say that was a fair price for a rare item for anyone who collects these things. Sure its not as good as the most recent models from other Japanese makers and the pressurised alcohol firing is positively scary but it was made 30+ years ago in Aster's earliest days ... if I had USD 1251 to spare well I would buy it.
Andrew
 

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Andrew is on target, $1200 is cheap for that offering. The engine alone is worth that much. If the three cylinder runs as well as the Aster Shay then it should be an excellent marine unit.


" As to the premise of pressurised alcohol firing is positively scary:"




Our fleet has had many a lazy summer day on the big muddy using Saito engines





A railroading venture


Then there was the ride down the Mississippi on the Queen



Even had a winter firing

 

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The auction ended 2AM PST and my auction sniper bid was just under what it finally sold for :-(. I am really interested in a live steam boat as my next project - can anybody point me to good source of information on issues such as how to match the engine size to boat size etc....

Robert
 

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http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/SAITO%20HEADER.htm
Robert

Here is a business listing that will give you some idea of boat size and engine/boiers



Saito boat kits


Saito steam engines



IN all our boats we have had success with 2,3,4 cylinder engines in combination with either boiler. The other parts that should be added wold be: condenser, pressure gauge, smoke unit, etc

The 4 cylinder Saito is harder to find in that it is no longer produced.
 

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I had bought my engine set for $600 USD, Really not that great of a marine plant, Saito, and Cheddar are far better. Pretty small also compared to the others. The pressurized or vaporizing alcohol burners are really not difficult to operate. They do burn very hot like our gas burners.

I have built a number of steam boats and if you have a certain boat kit in mind I may be able to recommend an engine.

I put more of a value on functionality than mere collectibility when I purchase a steam engine. I do not want to buy a poor runner because my ultimate goal would be to run it, be it a Locomotive or a marine plant for a boat. I will not go as far as saying I am not a collector of steam engines, because over the years I have added too many to my stable. I say this engine is not a great performer because I had one, had one of our masters work on it, (i do not think he was impressed either). I also talked to another avid Aster collector/operator and he said it had more collector value than usefulness.

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Steve
 

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Posted By Jim Overland on 02/06/2009 8:46 AM
What engine/boiler would you recommend for the Krick Borkum kit?


If I was doing it I would use one of my Saito twin engines and may be a boiler from Regner, Monahan, or scratchbuilt.

What is recommended from Krick is there Victor steam plant, but I am not sure of the availablity of these and have not heard anything about them.

I would also recomend the following canidates based on size.

Cheddar Puffin steam plant, If you can find one.

Monahan Sparrow Vertical, fairly new company, but his offerings do look like they are top notch similar to the level that Maxwell Hemmens once offered. I do want to buy one of these but have too many other engines in my collection to justify.

Regner Midi, Regners reputation has been good and it looks like a nicely designed steam plant.

Monahan and Regner would be the best bets based on availablity. The Borkum would look best with a vertical boiler. There are other possibilities by mixing and matching engines and boilers. For example PMR makes a nice v twin, but no boiler. The twin mated to a Regner or Monahan boiler would perform well.

Hope this helps
Steve
 

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I bought a used 2 cylinder saito with boiler and alcohol burner years ago at a local hobby shop thinking I could use the engine for a climax. The unit looks to be pretty old and it did not come with instructions. The alcohol burner on this saito looks like the aster but it doesn't have a line from the tank to the burner. This burner has a safety valve which you can remove to fill with alcohol, then a burner tube with a valve I guess to regulate the fire. Thats it.
It seems very simple but I can't get this thing to make enough of a fire to make steam.

I'm not sure if this burner is missing a piece or maybe its just an art to get it going. Does it work by creating heat in the burner tube and the heat pressurizes the alcohol tank?

Bruce
 

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This should help. You may not have preheated the burner which is what is required to build up pressure prior to lighting off the burner. i wrote the instructions below for the RC Groups boat forum a while ago. The instructions would also work for an Aster marine Plant.

Saito Live Steam Starting Instructions

1. Fill the boiler approximately ¾ full with distilled or filtered rain water.
2. The plug at the front top of the boiler can be used as an overflow indicator, fill boiler until it runs out.
3. Drain the water from the displacement lubricator and refill with genuine steam oil.
4. Ensure the burner valve is closed.
5. Fill the fuel tank with Methyl or denatured alcohol.
6. Lubricate the engine with 30w or similar oil.
7. Ensure the throttle valve is closed.
8. Fill the metal bottle cap with fuel and place under the burner, this is used to preheat the burner and warm the fuel tank to provide pressure for the fuel.
9. Just before the bottle cap runs out of fuel , open the burner valve and the burner should light, it will be a little rough for a few minutes until the burner gets fully heated.
10. Adjust the fuel valve to get a good flame, if you can’t see the flame then adjust so it can be heard but not a loud roar.
11. Keep an eye on the steam plant and a head of steam should be raised in 4-10 minutes depending on the boiler and burner.
12. I would wait until 10-20 PSI is indicated on the pressure gauge if equipped. If no pressure gauge is present you might start to hear or see steam escaping from around the engine.
13. Crack open the throttle valve, most two cylinder double acting engines will self start; condensate will come out of the engine exhaust.
14. With some engines it is better to set the engine in forward then reverse to clear the condensate.
15. Do not try to strongly force the engine to turn if it is locked up with condensate, given slight pressure it will clear the condensate and eventually start. Unless the engine is faulty if it is getting steam pressure it will run.
16. Run the engine conservatively at first checking to make sure you do not run the boiler dry before the fuel is exhausted.
17. Keep the RPM low since most model steam engines are intended to run at 1000 RPM or less. This will require running a coarser pitched or larger diameter propeller than an electric motor.
18. There are other details if things are not working ask a question to the group and it will probably be answered.
19. Have fun Steaming


Thanks
Steve
 

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Steve,
Thank you so much for taking the time to type the instructions. # 8 and 9 must be the trick because I had no idea that you have to preheat the burner tube with an external fire.
This engine never came with the bottle cap mentioned so I guess it got lost. I'll come up with something to use and try to fire it up.
Thanks again.

Bruce.
 

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Bruce
We find that the "bottle cap" and the procedure described to the a pita. We utilize a small butane torch to heat the fuel tank extension to the point of allowing for vaporization and thus ignition of the torch. If using a condensation tank (one should) make sure that it is empty as it will effect the engine performance other wise.
 

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Posted By Charles on 02/08/2009 7:33 PM
Bruce
We find that the "bottle cap" and the procedure described to the a pita. We utilize a small butane torch to heat the fuel tank extension to the point of allowing for vaporization and thus ignition of the torch. If using a condensation tank (one should) make sure that it is empty as it will effect the engine performance other wise.




Your right about the bottle cap, it takes a few minutes for it to get it hot enough to start the burner. I just bought one of those little butane torches the size of a lighter, I call it a crack pipe lighter. It is great for little soldering jobs. I would expect the little torch procedure would be very quick to heat it up. I will have to try it.

Thanks
Steve
 
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