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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just acquired this complicated beast and I am hoping someone can point me at information about the issues and problems that need to be resolved.

61927


It is an interesting model, with a tender pump and gas pipe to the loco. There are 2 gas tanks - the tender holds butane and has a glass viewing port (first one I've seen,) and an 'expansion tank' in the cab. 2 gas valves! I've heard that the expansion tank can be removed for more reliable operation.

61928


It has been fitted with r/c and that seems to work. The supplier sent me some new O-rings for the gas pipe, but they wouldn't fit - I almost wasted a tank of butane trying to get it to seal.

This, btw, is why it desperately needs quick-connect fittings from Jason at TTD. Both the water and the gas connect to the the locomotive with manual bango-type bolts, which are very stiff to rotate, despite a little oil on the O-rings. I did find a thick rubber washer to seal the gas pipe.

61930


But still needed major help to get it undone!

61929


I have the kit instructions and drawings in PDF form [can send if anyone needs them] which is quite helpful - the whistle is broken off so I had to find how the dome was held on.
I was bemused by the little black roof fitting (it's top center in the 2nd pic.) It turns out to be connected to a safety valve on top of the boiler in the cab - despite there being a safety under the dome in front of the cab as well.

The first pic was taken at my first steam test on Jerry's SC&M RR. It did manage to move 3ft under its own power, but the O-ring issue was obviously causing gas leaks. I put it on rollers this morning, and found that the rear safety weeps at very low pressure, so that will have to come off and be adjusted.
In addition, there's a 'blow-down' valve under the boiler; totally inaccessible, but presumably usable when the loco is cold to empty it. I (foolishly) opened it and then turned it back with a screwdriver, and I thought it was leaking. However, I hen noticed steam emitting from the cab as it got up to as much pressure as it could, and there was water running down the waterglass, probably from the top joint. That may have been the source of water underneath.

So, off comes the cab and we start rehabilitating various bits. If anyone can offer any insight about these problems, or others, I am all ears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It just occurred to me that it has planty of steel M2 bolts on the backhead. On the Reno they go right through into the water and rust away. Does anyone know if they go through into the boiler, or just in to the fitting?
 

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Pete, C&S22 is a great loco. Yes, it has two safety valves and a blow-down valve. There is no need to remove the expansion tank in the cab, you just need to learn how to use it. The steam valve goes all through the boiler. If the loco has been stored dry, I do not think there should be any problem with rusting. I did have a case of blow-down valve rusting away though. Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi
 

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I think the 22 could use with simplifying the gas firing system, the whole cab expansion tank over complicates what should be a very simple system like any other tender mounted gas tank/butane gas fired model. I remember many guys getting rid of that expansion tank set up for a simple set up much like the Frank S has or something from Accucraft. But to each is own, some figured out the tricks to run the stock set up and thats ok to. This engine is on my future wish list.
 

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Mike, you would have to rework the entire gas supply system. If I remember correctly, the valve is at the bottom of the tender gas tank and it is likely to send liquid butane to the jet if connected directly. This is why the expansion tank is useful. The trick to using it is to fully open the valve on the expansion tank and regulate the gas supply using the valve on the tender tank. The valves are very sensitive so start with a very very tiny opening of the tender gas tank to light the fire through the stack and then just follow the standard procedures. But remember to keep the expansion tank valve fully open! Best wishes from Tokyo, Zubi
 

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Hence why the whole system would get a rework, its been done as some do not care for the original set up. To each his own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
, you would have to rework the entire gas supply system.
I did have a brief conversation with Ryan at Howard Cty and he mentioned those points. From the diagrams, I would think you could remove the tank valve and bottom seal and then run a copper tube to to the top to collect gas instead of liquid. Seal the pipe in the bottom of course and use the valve off the expansion tank to feed the jet.

Actually I haven't had any problems with the gas, but thanks for the tips, Zubi. I may leave it alone while I address the leaks.
 

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Hi Pete...This engine is far too complicated to sort out...better that you just sell it to me and be done...HaHa, just a joke. Congratulations on the wonderful add to your roster...I know you are glad to have it...I know I'd be happy to have it in mine!
Hope to see you at a steam-up in the not-too-distant future,
Cliff
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
better that you just sell it to me
I don't think so. ;) But if something more amazing turns up, you never know. . .

I did have a moment to fire it up today without the cab to see where the leaks are. The top joint on the water glass is the culprit (or one of them.) I added the red arrow to show the steam escaping.

61964


When I got it back on the bench, it doesn't look as if the top and bottom fittings are in line. I wonder if it got bashed in transit. Good job I got the kit instructions!

61965
 

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Ouch...those fittings are certainly out of line. This one seems to happen to me on most older engines I acquire....you should be able to sort it out easily enough, after which the seal will hopefully be better.
 

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If it got bashed in shipping, you may need a new gauge glass once you open it up. Hopefully you got lucky and the top fo the glass is broken inside the gland nut. Still one neat locomotive and not one seen all that often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you got lucky and the top fo the glass is broken inside the gland nut.
Unfortunately not - it broke right at the nut.

62009


There might be enough pipe in the bottom to jury-rig a fix, but I ordered some 6mm tube from Jason anyway.

I then realized that there was still water in the boiler, and there was an air hole at the top and nothing to stop the water leaking out the bottom of the sight glass whenever I moved the locomotive!

62010
 

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Think you'll find 6mm may be a smidge too big for the C&S Mogul. As originally fitted they were a 5mm sight glass.
 
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