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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I know I tried it before and failed.
But if RJ can build somethingi know i can.



Its too windy to even think about out doors work. So I found my photos and a friends HO scale model, and some size info from MJV.
I started. I'm using a SD45 frame and parts from two U-25s, one that Harry picked up for me.
Its NOT going to be "perfect" , I just want it to "look" like a 33-C in my videos.
Now If AC made these , I'd have 4 of them on my coal train.



 

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Looking good so far Marty. I also use some parts from as SD45 to complete my project. Basically used all the electronics from it to us in the U Boat. Later RJD
 

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Well the old saying is if you don't first succeed try again. Keep it going and up date us. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had to stop cause I was messing with the LS engine beings its nice out side.
I'm looking for materials for the rear grills.
 

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Marty, check out those exotic candies like Thortons (if you have them over there) , often they come in a mesh bag thats great for grills and stack spark arrestors
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for the ideas I just keep jumping around. burned brush before work today and Dusty will have the rock finished this afternoon.
life is fling
 

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Well now you will be ready to fire up the LS on the completed ground work so the table is level. Now to reset and try it out. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Getting back to this project.
This is the part that is REALLY HARD for me , moving slowly through detail work.


I had some HO scale diamond styrene for the walk ways which is perfect match to Aristos on the loco.



I use body putty to fill the gaps. I hope to primer this and see or resand areas as need be.

Not sure yet how to screw the shell on so I can service it in the future.
 

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Looking good Marty. I ended up making the mounting pads to hold the shell in place. I was able to only use the two rear original holes to hold the shell in place. Later RJD
 

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Hi Marty!

A friend bought a center cab second hand and the hoods were missing most of their mounting posts. I used 1/4 inch square styrene strips to replace them.

If you draw an X from corner to corner on the bottom of the strip, the center of the X is your drill point. Using a drill press and vise will assure the holes are straight.

On an old Pacific I restored for a friend the 1/4 inch square strips had to be mounted away from the walls of the tender using 1/8 inch thick strips.
 

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Also look at using dry wall sand paper as it has square holes spaced about right and is very rigid.. Later RJD
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Eric was over last night so he worked on his project and I got the hand rails installed.
they will be removed to be painted.

All he did was talk about Paul's engines.
 
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