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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The tender is set to charge, plugged in, orange light. Charged 24 hours still orange. Plugged into loco (servos), no motion no sound. I think the battery is dead. Would you agree? Has anyone undertaken to replace the battery, any tips or tricks?
 

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Replace the battery with 6 Mh
battery's the charging light never changes or goes out
also check the wires on the plug they break or pull out easy
 

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when I first received mine the led showed ORANGE, and battery didn't charge. Found the tender cover was replaced, very difficult to do, and the 24 pin plug was one row off. Easy to check: take cover off tender, remove the baffle that keeps water from flowing on to the circuit boards, then while watching through the opening see that the pins are all lined up and drop the cover on. While the cover is off make sure every thing is plugged to the proper ports, can help with that if so. Once the pins are correct the LED will go RED.
EDIT: lotsasteam is correct, the charging light on mine doesn't extinguish either, but the battery and charger do get a bit more than warm.
EDIT: word of caution, the 3 conductor wire to the LED is very short, most likely pull the LED from the cover, not a problem as it is held on with HOT glue. Battery plugs into the board that is attached to the tender cover, but a bit longer.
 

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doublereefed, please do, interested in what you find. Becoming very familiar with the operation of the loco as well. I do like how the throttle and direction are controlled by motors and worm gears, but the weak part of that is the tiny contacts at the end of the arc of the rods, seem to have a tendency to malfunction. I have read where some have replaced the entire R/C system to more conventional readily available parts. I'm not about ready to give up on mine. When you get the tender squared away we will talk more about the locomotive.
EDIT: would like to hear from others who actually have and run one.
 

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RCS Remote servo for throttle servoelectronic wired into reverse motor push button for ignition wired straight to battery gastank bypassed with propane tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
doublereefed, please do, interested in what you find. Becoming very familiar with the operation of the loco as well. I do like how the throttle and direction are controlled by motors and worm gears, but the weak part of that is the tiny contacts at the end of the arc of the rods, seem to have a tendency to malfunction. I have read where some have replaced the entire R/C system to more conventional readily available parts. I'm not about ready to give up on mine. When you get the tender squared away we will talk more about the locomotive.
EDIT: would like to hear from others who actually have and run one.
For sure! Will update...
 

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doublereefe, i converted AML Pacific, all metal loco, to propane which burns hotter than butane. The increased heat will produce more steam. The Mike I have produces plenty of steam with the stock poker burner on low when run at scale speed. My fear with the Aristo plastic body if not monitored carefully could cause damage. Many have reported that if the flame got into the smoke box even or a short period of time will cause extensive damage as Seadog warned me in another thread a few days ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
doublereefe, i converted AML Pacific, all metal loco, to propane which burns hotter than butane. The increased heat will produce more steam. The Mike I have produces plenty of steam with the stock poker burner on low when run at scale speed. My fear with the Aristo plastic body if not monitored carefully could cause damage. Many have reported that if the flame got into the smoke box even or a short period of time will cause extensive damage as Seadog warned me in another thread a few days ago.
Interesting! I have a friend who has a Gauge 3 loco, and the tender houses one whole camp stock bottle of propane. Works great. Yes... smokebox fires will destroy this Aristo Mike quickly. I am still working on getting set up to fire this thing, will pay close attention to that when I get there.
 

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Aster JNR 8550 & Aristocraft live steam Mikado
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I replaced the battery in my Mike when it first arrived. It was totally dead. The charge led stayed on RED no matter how long it was plugged in. When I opened the tender, I found an NiMH battery pack instead of an NiCd. Whether or not this battery was original, I really couldn't tell and from what I've gathered, the OEM likely used whichever was on hand. So I took it to the local batteries-plus store and they made a new NiMH battery pack for me on the counter in like 10 minutes. Now when I charge the tender, the led starts out amber and gradually transitions to a red color as it charges. The charge led never extinguishes and this is most likely because of the cheap/simple charge circuit and NiMH chemistry. Suffice to say, it works just fine.
 

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Boogiesg, thanks for the battery tip, chargers are designed for the specific battery and should not be mixed. NiCd and NiMH very different technology. Thinking that Aristo packed the charger depending on what battery they provided with the tender.
 

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Going to add to the mystery. Just opened a brand new Gen II Mike. Has been out of the box, but surely nothing more than that, it isn't assembled and everything in original packaging. It came with TWO battery chargers, and the CD that came with it stated "comes with a NiCd battery". The smaller of the two has a sticker on the side "live steam mikado" and both manuals have 10/02/05 NEW on the bottom right corner.

Corded phone Telephone Gas Audio equipment Electronic device
 
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