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Discussion Starter #41
Vernon,

Within a group of 7 GP 40s of mine, one GP 40 had the failed motors. (The GP 40 is a beautiful model, and I have since purchased an 8th one.)
Greg's concerns about Aristo's GP40 motors not withstanding, that leaves you with about an 86% chance your loco is OK. Besides which, Aristo is known to back up their locos and will likely send you a "call tag" for it (or motor blocks) as they did with me and fix or exchange them as Aristo indicated they had to order 2000 motors.

The wheel issue (poor quality plating rapidly coming off) is the main unresolved concern for track power users, such as myself.

-Ted
 

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The wheel problem can be solved with NWSL wheels. The make nickel-silver and stainless steel wheels. Also, they have movable center hubs that allow complete wheel gauge adjustment.
 

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Both Ted and I called NWSL and were told unavailable.

Nick S. just called them, and "got past" the woman that both Ted and I got, and talked to "Dave", apparently the owner.

He has some in stock, but are nickle-plated brass. He told Nick he would make them.

I'm measuring my wheels to be sure of what I am ordering and will call Dave tomorrow.

This is good news, if it pans out.

Regards, Greg
 

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Hope you are right Greg. As you know Joe here had call months ago and was told the same and still no wheels. If they are available I will order some also. Later RJD
 

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Whew, given that my BNSF GP40 is currently my favored engine and most run, and reading this thread, I am feeling very thankful that I am powering my engine with battery power and that the motorblocks are the old fashioned FA1 type ball bearing trucks. Thankfully my trusty GP40 is running just great, and giving me nice long run times on my li-ion batteries! As I said at the beginning, "whew!!"

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Ed,

How is it that you refer to using the older type Aristo FA1 motor blocks in your GP40?
If you mean you replaced the GP 40 prime mover factory equipped motor blocks with them, what was your experience that caused you to do this? (Did your factory original motors fail, too?)


Your experience input is much appreciated;

Thank you,

-Ted
 

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Ted he changed them out because of the current draw. Draining his batteries to quick. Bad side to battery. Later RJD
 

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Well I just check my GP 40 that I've had close to two years. I had very little wear on the wires as Ted had talked about. I did coat the wires with a rubber sealant on the edge of the opening just for safe measures.




I also cheched the wheels for wear and show very little of the plating coming off. Also the upper left rear wheel is a replacement wheel from AC Part NO ART 29130. It does not show any signs of wobbling when running.Also note the thinner flange. Back to back spacing is now correct.




Here is the insulating coating show on the right that I use to coat the area where the truck wires come up through the frame. I will check my two remaining GP for any wear also.





This loco and a mate have been hard for the past two years. i run a max of 15 cars with one loco and have about a 1% grade. I've run this loco for hrs on end so far I'm the lucky guy. I also have all SS track which I contribute to the less whear on the wheels.
 

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Ted, as RJ reported, my reason for changing out the motorblocks on my GP40 were power consumption. As far as I can tell, my factory supplied motors did not fail. When the power was off on them, there was no current draw, and their consumption was reasonably linear with voltage. I just didn't like the fact that they drew as much current as they did. I actually doubled my run time with a given set of batteries by changing out the motor blocks.

As an aside, I also found that for me the larger motor in the GP40 did not correspond to the ability to pull more cars. I found that my poly fuses would cut out if I got much over 20-25 cars. With the older style FA1 type trucks, I can still easily pull that many cars, and the poly fuses don't "blow". I am assuming this is because of the lower current draw.

Hope this answers your question.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Thank you ED and RJ,

Ed,

Thanks for clarification.
Adding weight to the GP 40 should improve its pulling ability, so I would anticipate the effectiveness of the larger motor/s would then be of benefit.

RJ,

I believe you, but the ART-29130 wheels I have out of the bag wobbled when I attempted to put them on my Cotton Belt GP40 motor block axle.
The bag of ART-29130 pair of wheels I have was purchased a few years ago.

I also have a ball bearing type axle spare part I purchased a few years ago, too, meant for use in the FA1, RS3 etc. locos, and the ART-29130 wheel snugly fits on it OK.

Why we have different results is to be investigated.

-Ted
 

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Ted: most of my purchases have been in the past year so do not know if any changes could have been made. As I mentioned the same wheels worked fine and fit snug and align correctly. Yes these wheels were suppose to fit the FA and RDC cars. My measurements of wheels for the SD45,GP 40, -9, and E-8 all measure the same .


Also I'd take a look at your other AC locos such as if you have your SD45 -9 and E-8 to see if you are having the same wire rubbing issue because all these units have the same set up like the GP40 for the wires coming up throgh the frame and through the channel metal weight Mine have not shown the sever wire rub and deterioration as yours. Later RJD
 

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" . . . .such as if you have your SD45 -9 and E-8 to see if you are having the same wire rubbing issue because all these units have the same set up like the GP40 for the wires coming up throgh the frame and through the channel metal weight Mine have not shown the sever wire rub and deterioration as yours.."

Hmmm your respective shortlines what diameter minimum on the curves That could be the issue re:"wire rub" ! Although I think you both run similiar diameter ??!


Hmmmm maybe the radon gas/ unburned carbondioxide/ formaldehyde gases in the air of the undergrd shortline vs the fresh air of the georgian shortline may have something to do with the plating . . . okay okay maybe the wires softened up due to being in the undergrd 'air' .


re: "failure" of plating on wheels gad I should not waste my time proceeding with painting my 2-44Ts and 2-GP9s based on previously reported problems with plating failure of USATrains metal wheels too ! These are like 8 yrs olde stock ! Maybe best to sell based on well-documented reports of plating failure in their wheels toooo ! ya would think the manufacturers would not regress back to the early ages of GR when it comes to materials used . . . but unless they do what ? spectrogramblahblah of a sample unit per order to confirm correct materials used . . .


BUT ehhhhh loook at the 1:1 auto industry this week, toyota recalling thousands of vehicles (back to '05) due to stuck gas pedals ! The media report stated an additional slap in the face regards THEIR quality control. Previous recall pedal catching on poorly designed floormat ! Thankfully in GR a failure in wheel tread or shorting wires or stuck throttle does not result in a significant other being run over (or into others property ) due to a stuck gas pedal or loss of control . . .


Thanks Ted for starting this thread and the RJ for the report on your (respective shortline) engine components.



doug c


p.s. sorry i could not resist !
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Doug,

My layout is very circuitous with its main line composed of 10 foot minimum diameter track.
The longest straight section is 8 feet. When I built the layout to ease transitions, I did use larger diameter gradual lead in and outs to the 10 foot curve diameter sections in most places. Also, I put a short, straight track section between the few "S" bends there are.

-Ted
 

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I took the motor block out of my E8. I took off one wheel. I put a 29130/29131 wheel on the axle on the E8. The tapers are different and the wheel does not align on the taper.

We have measured the "prime mover" wheel and calculated the taper at 8 degrees. Ted and I measured and calculated the 29130/29131 taper at 4.5 degrees (but there could be a bit of error here).

That jives with my perception of the 29130 wheel "wobbling" on the axle of a prime mover gearbox.

I then put the screw in the center and tightened it, and the wheel appeared to align reasonably, but did not run the truck. While it may fit, it is touching the axle in only one small spot.

Thus the wheels on the "old style" 2 axle Aristo bricks are different from all the 3 axle and the GP40 bricks.


Regards, Greg
 

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As far as the wobbling on the prime mover brick it has not occurred on mine when I have used the 29130 wheels. It helps if the wheel is tighten correctly and not just to say there is a screw there to hold it. My wheels are tight enough when installed that they need to be pried off after removing the screw. That's where I think the difference is as seeing wheel wobble. I can nether ya or na the measurement of the taper on the axle but it's not that big a difference to cause a running problem with the loco.

The comments that I made on Ted checking his locos for the wire wear are based on his curvature that he is running. I have 8 and 10 ft revers curves and have long runs in between so I do not see the problem as Ted has. Later RJD
 

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The following video is putting the 29130 wheel on a prime mover motor block.

You be the judge if you want to correct this looseness and lack of matching of taper with a screw. It's your decision. I believe RJ has his screws tightened enough to keep them on. It's not a good enough mechanical connection for me.




Regards, Greg
 

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This is non of my business, but just so no one misses the post, A/C is offering to pay for the return and the repair of the whole loco or the motor blocks, you will need to contact A/C for the info.

Hope this helps: Jeff
 

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After carefully watching your video the wheel that you use to show the wobble or improper taper is not the same wheel which I used to replace mine. I notice the same thick flange as compared to the E-8 wheel so it is as you said a different part number than what I used. There fore it does not fit correctly as mine does. The wheels I used was ones to replace the traction tire wheels and is a different part no also. Later RJD
 

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Posted By aceinspp on 23 Jan 2010 10:40 AM
After carefully watching your video the wheel that you use to show the wobble or improper taper is not the same wheel which I used to replace mine. I notice the same thick flange as compared to the E-8 wheel so it is as you said a different part number than what I used. There fore it does not fit correctly as mine does. The wheels I used was ones to replace the traction tire wheels and is a different part no also.

Yes Aristo has even said now they will be producing the SS wheels. However I may not see it in my life time. Later RJD
 
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